MY CBR1000F only has 9200 miles on it, took it out for a short ride today for about 15 miles. When I pulled in at my house it died. Engine died, lost all the lights on the dash, it just died and I have been unable to get the bike to do
anything..

Battery has been on a battery tender and was fully charged prior to the ride and is relatively new, replaced a few months ago, checked the fuse box, no burnt fuses, checked the 30amp fuse by the battery and it is good.

Thoughts? suggestions? I am not a mechanic and don't have any electrical tools to analyze so suggestions need to be simple!!! other than take it to a bike shop!

A separate issue, when it was running...as of a month ago it was running and idling fine...it sat for a month and now it stalls out at idle and only idles with the choke partially on...could that be trash in the jets? It sticks of gas when I am done riding too...is it flooding itself? I use startron additive for the ethanol and put in fresh gas.

 

The first thing I would do is spend $10-$20 and get yourself a multi-meter, otherwise you will just be working blind.

 

Not charging by the sounds of it ....... maybe the R/R is toast ...... a meter as jarvid
indicated is handy to have to check for sure

 

I agree with sprock and jarvid ,the early CBR's had a teething problem with Regulator /Rectifier's (R/R) the alternator would be the 2nd thing to check out . There is a segment on how to check the charging system in this section , see if that helps you out or points you in the right direction . As for the carb / stalling problem , run some Seafoam in the tank to see if that clears it up . It worked for me ,, and my 93 CBR 1000f sat for close to a year before I got it . Let us know how it goes / works out .

 

Kill switch fault ?
It would do all of the above.........................
Having said that when my battery let go, everything died too.
It happened when the revs dropped.................
I found a burned connector on the R/reg which when I cleaned and refitted it, all was good again.
You may be lucky and not find a fried reg/rec, just a dry battery..............

+ Add some seafoam to your gas.

 

Yay electrical issues!!

Even before you buy a multi meter, buy a test light, there are about $2 for a cheap one ($5 if you want metal...) and are just basically a length of wire with a clip on one end, a light bulb in the middle and a pointy bit to stab at things. Electrical things.

These are far better for diagnosing electrical gremlins as they are faster. Just clip one end to something metal and poke the pointy end at the wire you want to test.

I doubt it would be a battery problem if it died that suddenly and the dash lights went out. The bike will run for hours without an alternator and would huff- and puff- as it was sucking the last few amps from the battery, and the dash lights would continue to glow after the igniter had stopped. This is going to be a short in the ignition somewhere.

all the stock electrical systems on these bikes are powered through the ignition switch. A wire runs from that 30a fuse to the ignition, then another runs back to the fuse block near the battery. What you want to do is take the test light and poke the 30a fuse, if it lights up, then you have power and you go to the ignition. if you take the little plastic cap off then there are 3 wires soldered to the bottom of the ignition. one should have power all the time, the other 2 (one for the fan and one for everything else I believe) should only have power when the key is on.

This is where being able to read wiring diagrams comes in handy. it's just a process of following the current and finding out where it stops. Chances are it will be between the battery, 30a fuse, ignition switch and fuse block, because the system splits up from there and a failure would only cut power to the systems on that fuse.

Tim.

 

I'll invest in some simple testing tools, for now I am going to have the battery tested. After removing the battery I hooked jumper cables to the battery leads and everything functioned normally. Once I replace the battery I will have the charging system tested to make sure its charging properly. It wold appear the battery is older than what I was told when I bought the bike, the date stamp indicates Feb 2007, so perhaps the battery is just shot. Thanks for all the great advice.

 

Ok spill Tim, are you actually a sparkie or are you just a legend?

 

I had this fault on my 94 model. It just came to a halt when out riding no electrics nothing. Try wriggling the cable from your ignition switch while the ignition is switched on. Sounds daft but it got the lights back up again turns out one of the wires in the plug had corroded and snapped and wasn't making contact all the time it was just moving around loose in the plug. Hope this helps

 

Just dealt with my share of problems I think...

That will be awesome if a new battery fixes it. I should have pointed out the first thing to point the test light at is the battery... (If only to test the light)

electrical systems in these things are pretty simple, and once you get to know them then you can do some pretty nifty things...

I.E. my Hurricane has a keyless ignition and remote start that I hacked onto it from a $20 ebay keyless entry system. I hate having ignition keys on a bike cause they are a pita so this seemed the best idea. The chicks love it...

Seriously wickedly simple as well, you can get away with just connecting 2 or 3 wires to the bike around the battery and off it goes!

I'll do a quick write-up and see if anyone's interested.

TIm.