I haven’t been able to get my bike over about 7,000rpm's

I had it down at the bike shop today and they took me for a ride
They got it to 9,000 with out a problem, except for once at approximately 7,000, there was a slight hesitation.

Obversely, there is a cliché and my riding style is catching it.

Has anyone heard such a thing?

 

I don't understand what "Obversely, there is a cliché and my riding style is catching it." means. Is there a mechanical problem with your bike or do you have a physical/mental/emotional condition that prevents you from hauling a$$ ?

 

My 90 1000F goes well over 10K. But I already checked my ignition timing with a timing light so I know the timing is working right. And I cleaned the piston/slides in my carbs so I know the needles are coming all of the way out of the main jet. The spark generator can go bad and you won't get any ignition advance. Mine went bad, and I checked it according to the shop manual. The resistance was in spec, but it didn't work. As for the piston slides in the carbs, they get gummed up pretty quickly even though I use premium gas. Also, there is a little resistor in the spark plug boot that could be bad. I unscrewed mine, took out the resistor, and put in a cut-off bolt that matched the resistor diameter and length. Or your fuel filter/petcock filter may be clogged.

 

I am sure I have physical/mental/emotional conditions, but my condition at 7,000 is, "I want more power, Go you bustard ,Go".

The mechanic reckons there nothing internally mechanically wrong with the bike, like weak value springs or worn pistons.

The only two things I can come up with in my style are:
1) I usually run around between 3k-5k, and then say on a on-ramp, I will give it to her, when it gets to about 7k, it starts to splutter.
2) I may be over aggressive with the throttle and I am choking it.

I tend to think it's on the fuel side, but can't rule out electrical.
I have been through the manual and cannot find where the fuel filter is, I thought it would be under the left side cover, but I'm guessing is under the tank? (Duh)

I was thinking of change the plugs and plug caps, but I am going to have to read up on the carbie cleaning process in the manual, and try and find some time to do it. (Not sure if removing the plug caps resistors is a good idea?)

 

Thanks, it's becoming a bit clearer now Next time you decide to goose it don't go full throttle -- go maybe 1/2 to 3/4 and see if it still sputters at 7K. A clogged fuel filter will cause a bike to stumble when getting on the gas and is probably the easiest and cheapest thing to change. It would still rev easy when idling just stumble when real power is needed. Good luck -- timing/fuel/electrical gremlins are a pain in the a$$ to diagnose.

 

Thanks

I am going to experiment with it on my next ride.

Also, does everyone have a power band at 6k rpm

 

My 79 Suzuki GS1000 has the throttle cable hooked directly to the piston slides. The throttle directly controls how fast the piston slides rise. The piston slides never stick unless the throttle cable sticks. The bike can bog if the throttle is opened too quickly at low rpm and in the wrong gear.

On my CBR1000, the carbs are constant-velocity. The throttle cable is hooked to the throttle plate, not the piston slides. The piston slides rise according to the pressure of the air flowing past the throttle plate. There's no bogging, because the piston rises according to the amount of air flow. If the piston/slides or piston walls are dirty or sticky, or there's a rip in the diaphram, or an airbleed is clogged, the piston will hesitate in rising or not rise at all. If the piston and needle don't rise out of the main jet, high speed rpm suffers.

 

Aha!!! The carbs are CV's! Of course! I've been fretting and fuming about lack of power and never even thought about sticking slides. My former bikes all had carbs with slides directly operated by the throttle cable. Now there's something else to check out this winter. Of course I'll check out the spark generator also. I knew there was a reason to hang out here. Thanks guys.

As for the question about a power band at 6,000 - yup. It pulls very well from 3000 or so, but seems to hit hard at 6000. Or at least it did until a couple months ago.

DRam

 

Mine is a '90. After 122,000 miles the carbs have never done anything wrong as far as sticking slides, etc. It sat about 9 years before I got it with only 950 miles on it. The carbs needed cleaning but that was all. One more time, around 90,000 miles, a weeping bowl gasket but that's just messy, not performance related. It sounds like a spark advance, a miss, or possibly intake leak but I would expect accompanying indicators with any of those. Hard to diagnose that on the net. Good luck.

 

" It pulls very well from 3000 or so, but seems to hit hard at 6000 ", yep, that’s what I get.
I also notice an engine vibration at just below 3,000.
Will post when I find more out, Work coming out of my b#tt at the moment, so I will have to wait till hopefully, the end of the week

Thanks, This info is good.