1990 cbr1000f starting issues
#1
1990 cbr1000f starting issues
I am the second owner of this cbr and it ran great . runs mid 9 seconds in 1000ft. but starter would start to drag making difficult to start. thought it was the starter motor and had it rebuilt at a respectable altinator shop. still would not turn over like normal. Checked all wiring ,replaced the battery,purchased a new starter installed and problem of motor still dragging when trying to start. I have read alot of the post put up about starting problems. Could it possibly be the starter clutch,and how had is it to replace.
#8
RE: 1990 cbr1000f starting issues
First job is not to get the engine out! Take off the carbs and starter motor. You will see a little plate held onwith one bolt on the top of the gearbox cover. Remove the bolt and the plate. Inside you willsee a nut. You need to undo this with a good quality ratchet ring spanner.This is the alternator shaft and when you try to undo it the engine will turn. I put the bike in gear and got the combi boiler to put her foot on the rear brake to stop it. It's fiddly and awkward. You need this nut undone to be able to withdraw the shaft later. Then take the engine out. I used a chain hoist to take the weight and then carefull lower to the ground. Be careful lowering the engine out of the frame. If it drops only a few millimeters onto the floor it is likely to crack the sump (mine did!) - and it's not obvious that it's happened. You'll then have a slight oil leak that'll take forever to track down. Once the engine is on the floor I used the chain hoist to lift the front of the bike so that the engine was easy to 'walk' out. So your engine is out of the bike. And you did drain the oil first? Take off the cambox cover and remove the camshafts. This releases the drive chain and will make later jobs easier. Stick something through the chain to stop it falling through the tunnel. Then replace the cambox and roll the engine upside down. I'm assuming you're doing this on the floor like I did. Follow the instructions in the Haynes (or similar) manual on splitting the crankcases. Remove the chain tensioner from the alternator drive shaft chain. Get a paperclip. If you push this tensioner foot right in you will see a small hole that the clip can go through to lock it. Leave it like that until you come to rebuild. I'm tired of typing now! If this is any help, and you want more, or have specific questions, ask me via my email address: comevisitme@hotmail.com and I'll get back to you.
#9
First job is not to get the engine out! Take off the carbs and starter motor. You will see a little plate held onwith one bolt on the top of the gearbox cover. Remove the bolt and the plate. Inside you willsee a nut. You need to undo this with a good quality ratchet ring spanner.This is the alternator shaft and when you try to undo it the engine will turn. I put the bike in gear and got the combi boiler to put her foot on the rear brake to stop it. It's fiddly and awkward. You need this nut undone to be able to withdraw the shaft later. Then take the engine out. I used a chain hoist to take the weight and then carefull lower to the ground. Be careful lowering the engine out of the frame. If it drops only a few millimeters onto the floor it is likely to crack the sump (mine did!) - and it's not obvious that it's happened. You'll then have a slight oil leak that'll take forever to track down. Once the engine is on the floor I used the chain hoist to lift the front of the bike so that the engine was easy to 'walk' out. So your engine is out of the bike. And you did drain the oil first? Take off the cambox cover and remove the camshafts. This releases the drive chain and will make later jobs easier. Stick something through the chain to stop it falling through the tunnel. Then replace the cambox and roll the engine upside down. I'm assuming you're doing this on the floor like I did. Follow the instructions in the Haynes (or similar) manual on splitting the crankcases. Remove the chain tensioner from the alternator drive shaft chain. Get a paperclip. If you push this tensioner foot right in you will see a small hole that the clip can go through to lock it. Leave it like that until you come to rebuild. I'm tired of typing now! If this is any help, and you want more, or have specific questions, ask me via my email address: comevisitme@hotmail.com and I'll get back to you.
Do you still have to disasemble the motor is all you want to replace is the starting clutch? Or can you get away with pulling the Alt shaft and dropping the pan in order to access the chain tensioner so you can take the preasure off of the chain to slide the starter clutch out of the hole the alternator sits in?
#10
Sorry to open up an old thread...
Do you still have to disasemble the motor is all you want to replace is the starting clutch? Or can you get away with pulling the Alt shaft and dropping the pan in order to access the chain tensioner so you can take the preasure off of the chain to slide the starter clutch out of the hole the alternator sits in?
Do you still have to disasemble the motor is all you want to replace is the starting clutch? Or can you get away with pulling the Alt shaft and dropping the pan in order to access the chain tensioner so you can take the preasure off of the chain to slide the starter clutch out of the hole the alternator sits in?
The second option - and you don't even have to drop the pan. A few members have now done the fix, just removing the alternator/shaft and sliding a wire down to release the alternator chain tensioner.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...hoices-144487/
https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-tos-8...-clutch-95211/
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...uccess-138973/
Read and absorb everything and you'll be good to go.
Cheers, SB