CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

1990 cbr1000f engine swap issue/question

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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 07:35 AM
  #21  
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Nice job Naga_Thai. Noticing the thermostat location and feed hose, they are different and I can see they have different radiator feeds. The earlier ones feed form the rear of the cylinder block and the later ones from the sides of the block. The earlier ones had the missing nipple on the left side feed line. It looks like TheRoachKing needs to pull the '90 cylinder block and install it on the '91 engine to get the proper coolant line setup. He would need to do this to get the radiator feeds hooked up anyway.
 
Attached Thumbnails 1990 cbr1000f engine swap issue/question-cbr1000f-water-3-.jpg   1990 cbr1000f engine swap issue/question-1988-head.jpg  
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 09:19 AM
  #22  
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Well that begs to answer the question of what is the best cooling solution? If the op has multiple blocks he should setup the best method, yes?

My 88 heats up a bit in traffic on brutal days so I can see why they did some redesigns.

It would be also good to know for future upgrades or swap outs when doing repairs.

As a matter of fact is there a thread for recommended upgrades by year when doing maintenance? I.E. Things like the stator upgrade? If not that is a sticky that would be most welcome.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 11:35 AM
  #23  
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well - went out and checked exactly where that line goes to on an 87

it is "t"d into the left rear coolant pipe fitting on the 87 and imo
only serves as an air purge/primer for the water pump so it does
not airlock or run dry.....post a pic in a min

So all the op needs to do is T the line into the left coolant pipe somewhere
or simply put a small valve on to bleed it when flushing coolant when
part of maintenance schedule - don't think I'd cap it off tho'.

edit : so my index finger in center of pic is where line "T''s the left rear
coolant fitting (mk 1 ) bikes as TBT says has coolant fittings from rear
every other years out the sides
 
Attached Thumbnails 1990 cbr1000f engine swap issue/question-87wtrln.jpg  

Last edited by Sprock; Sep 9, 2012 at 12:02 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 12:02 PM
  #24  
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Thank you all very much. I can work up a "T" line into the return pipe or scavenge one up online.
YOU GUY ARE GREAT!
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 12:09 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Hueristic
Well that begs to answer the question of what is the best cooling solution? If the op has multiple blocks he should setup the best method, yes?

My 88 heats up a bit in traffic on brutal days so I can see why they did some redesigns.

It would be also good to know for future upgrades or swap outs when doing repairs.

As a matter of fact is there a thread for recommended upgrades by year when doing maintenance? I.E. Things like the stator upgrade? If not that is a sticky that would be most welcome.
Hi Hueristic

My input re your post in 3 parts ...

"My 88 heats up a bit in traffic on brutal days so I can see why they did some redesigns. " Unfortunately, all Series 1 to 3 get hot in traffic. The head design change emanated from a desire for more horsepower from a redesigned combustion chamber - during this chage the had to move the "cooling out" ports. < Then they relocatted the "radiator cap block" to accommodate etc etc >

"what is the best cooling solution? If the op has multiple blocks he should setup the best method, yes?".... I think there are other issues here with this particular "Block" situation. But having said that, there are other practical considerations when suggesting moving from a Series 1 cooling setup to a Series 2-3 setup. For example, issues regarding mounting of and difference in radiator cap block, the coil mounting is different, the fuel tank underside is different to allow alternate cable routing .... So, in short - anything is engineeringly possible ... but it is not a straight swap.

" is there a thread for recommended upgrades by year when doing maintenance? I.E. Things like the stator upgrade? If not that is a sticky that would be most welcome"
Good idea. You have a Series 1, don't you? Why not start the thread for the Series 1 with your suggestions and let others add theirs? Unfortunately, I don't have a Series 1 and am merely an informed observer.

 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 12:18 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Sprock
well - went out and checked exactly where that line goes to on an 87

it is "t"d into the left rear coolant pipe fitting on the 87 and imo
only serves as an air purge/primer for the water pump so it does
not airlock or run dry.....post a pic in a min

So all the op needs to do is T the line into the left coolant pipe somewhere
or simply put a small valve on to bleed it when flushing coolant when
part of maintenance schedule - don't think I'd cap it off tho'.

edit : so my index finger in center of pic is where line "T''s the left rear
coolant fitting (mk 1 ) bikes as TBT says has coolant fittings from rear
every other years out the sides

Great one Sprock!!!
It takes an Owner to get these things finally sorted - not merely informed observers. Great job!
<<< As a general observation - it is tremendous how in this forum members will spend their time - go out and strip their bike - to take photos to help other members. Let's all keep it up. >>>
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 02:43 PM
  #27  
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Thx Naga - but to be honest I had her apart already - there's scarcely
a day one of my bikes isn't on the lift getting a little TLC - as ya
can't ride 'em all at the same time and it's therapeutic ta boot
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 09:49 PM
  #28  
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Great info and so as not to throw this thread off topic I'll take this reply and start a new thread with it. And YES I was afraid you would volunteer me to do that thread when I asked about it.

Originally Posted by Naga_Thai
Hi Hueristic

My input re your post in 3 parts ...
{snip}
Good idea. You have a Series 1, don't you? Why not start the thread for the Series 1 with your suggestions and let others add theirs? Unfortunately, I don't have a Series 1 and am merely an informed observer.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 07:57 AM
  #29  
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From: Bir Tawil
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Originally Posted by Naga_Thai
. " Unfortunately, all Series 1 to 3 get hot in traffic.
I am not totally convinced that the temp gauge is not reading true relationship with markings. Has anyone measured the actual temp when the gauge reads high? When I open the hood (bonnet) of my car, it feels hotter and is reading normal.

It makes me wonder how or if a mk1 block got on a mk2. Starts to make me wonder if in fact its really a mk1 and the pulse generator is also different.
We don't know the history of the spare engine. It may have been a '91 that was used in a mk1 bike and then TheRoachKing is trying to put it in a '90. If it were used in a mk1 bike the pulse Gen may have been mod to make it work....something to check.

EDIT:Went and got some photos from pmcg's build [LINK]. With the engine out the photos show the difference in heads, perhaps the two different part #'s in the microfiche. In pmcg's photos the coolant out feeds to the radiator are actually in the head and not the cylinder block. The RoackKing needs to switch just the head and not the block as I mentioned before.
 
Attached Thumbnails 1990 cbr1000f engine swap issue/question-bike.jpg   1990 cbr1000f engine swap issue/question-motor.jpg   1990 cbr1000f engine swap issue/question-motorsin.jpg  

Last edited by TimBucTwo; Sep 10, 2012 at 10:31 AM. Reason: added photos
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #30  
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Default Finally I got a engine start!!!

Finally I got a engine start!!!It has taken me a long time to get here (some of you may ask why so long ....$$$$$) but it looks like I am getting close to a ride now. Thank you all for your help and expertise in this endeavor
heads ported and polished new V&H pipe Dyno stage 1 130 main jets progressive front springs new did chain and sprocket kit rewired old wire harness. just some putty and paint and VAROOOM!

video of start!!Its smokey because of DIE Heat tape about 100' of it




you guys rock!!!
 
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