1000H brake fluctuation. Is it .....
#21
04-10-2009, 12:45 AM
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Sounds a bit like you may have the wrong pads mate ?
your is an 88 model from memory...
I read it here I think by Pete , that the later pads are different "thicker"?? front to back and in later years ?
I have only put one set in my old girl (89) and they were the correct ones, so I has no problems..
I am not too sure about the different years , but I am sure that when Pete reads this he will set me straight
The alsymers yu know
your is an 88 model from memory...
I read it here I think by Pete , that the later pads are different "thicker"?? front to back and in later years ?
I have only put one set in my old girl (89) and they were the correct ones, so I has no problems..
I am not too sure about the different years , but I am sure that when Pete reads this he will set me straight
The alsymers yu know
Last edited by CBRclassic; 04-10-2009 at 12:48 AM.
#22
04-10-2009, 01:27 AM
#23
04-10-2009, 03:47 AM
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???Its a bit hard to tell from here LOL
#24
04-10-2009, 03:59 AM
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#25
04-10-2009, 04:17 AM
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No the rear is listed as MD1016 (89-92 bike) in the ebc catalogue
some bike that use that
NT650 98-05
NT700 06-09
CB1000 93-97
VT1100 04-05
You can download the cat here
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/catalogues.html
some bike that use that
NT650 98-05
NT700 06-09
CB1000 93-97
VT1100 04-05
You can download the cat here
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/catalogues.html
#26
04-10-2009, 08:39 AM
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#27
04-10-2009, 10:39 AM
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#28
04-10-2009, 01:11 PM
Timesarhard , I changed my pads today and had the same problem with the disc's binding , couldn't spin the wheel at all.
Remembered something about the forks and disc's needing to be spaced correctly . Loosen the main axle nut off and the pinch bolts on the same side , then push the fork in / leaver it out to realign the disc with the calliper. I had to leaver mine out slightly. Then re-tighten all bolts.
The new pads are still a bit snug but hopefully they will ease off once I've done a few miles and they've bedded in properly.
Remembered something about the forks and disc's needing to be spaced correctly . Loosen the main axle nut off and the pinch bolts on the same side , then push the fork in / leaver it out to realign the disc with the calliper. I had to leaver mine out slightly. Then re-tighten all bolts.
The new pads are still a bit snug but hopefully they will ease off once I've done a few miles and they've bedded in properly.
#29
04-10-2009, 02:07 PM
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Ive tried that Hawkwind but it didnt sort it out , however after a lot of swearing today, Itook off the right hand side caliper( right as in sitting on the bike) and pressed the lever with the pads in to see what was happening.
i was always putting the right on first.
I noticed that only one piston would come out and then after a few pumps the other piston would move out. Neither piston would slip back a little when i released the lever, as ive seen with car calipers. As I had a spare caliper I changed everything onto that one, bleed the brakes and although they are still a little tight its as I would have expected with new pads. Sorted I hope. Know I went back to the rear one where It seemed as though I had lost pedal. Plenty of fluid, bleed it out and it still seems tight. So that one off tomorrow. Gutted, have to cancel my retest MOT. Cant fit me in till Thursday now. and ill have to pay again
.
Having a pig trying to get the chain right withhout the tyre coming into contact with the torque arm.
Ahh the fun of it.These paper washers between the disk and rim would they be on my early 88 model? Didnt see one when I took off the old disks. would gasket paper substitute (1/64 paper)?
i was always putting the right on first.
I noticed that only one piston would come out and then after a few pumps the other piston would move out. Neither piston would slip back a little when i released the lever, as ive seen with car calipers. As I had a spare caliper I changed everything onto that one, bleed the brakes and although they are still a little tight its as I would have expected with new pads. Sorted I hope. Know I went back to the rear one where It seemed as though I had lost pedal. Plenty of fluid, bleed it out and it still seems tight. So that one off tomorrow. Gutted, have to cancel my retest MOT. Cant fit me in till Thursday now. and ill have to pay again
.Having a pig trying to get the chain right withhout the tyre coming into contact with the torque arm.
Ahh the fun of it.These paper washers between the disk and rim would they be on my early 88 model? Didnt see one when I took off the old disks. would gasket paper substitute (1/64 paper)?
#30
04-10-2009, 02:37 PM
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Rotor testing
Hawk, as I see Imo saying, "Its not an electrical problem!!!"
I use a dial indicator for testing out of true items that spin. There are two ways that the rotor can be out of true. Side to side and up and down. I use two dial indicators at once. One checking side to side run out and one checking out of round run out.
I don't think Honda built the front axle slightly bowed so if it is bowed, it needs to be replaced. A bowed axle will eventually ruin your front bearings and they will then cause a run out. I take it your front bearings are in good shape? They aren't that expensive so when you are there, why not replace them.... Taking your axle and rolling it on a smooth surface will give you a fast indication of its shape. If it rolls like a wooden legged Pirate walks, it is needing replacement.
A machine shop would chuck the rotors up in a lathe and use a dial indicator. They could tell you exactly how much run out there is in both side to side or out of round. If they are in good shape, the machine shop could give you a statement to the exact run out for the Testers to chew on since they are not experts and a machine shop is....
Our inspections on motorcycles only show up as death certificates!!! "Inspections, we don't need no stinking inspections!"
I use a dial indicator for testing out of true items that spin. There are two ways that the rotor can be out of true. Side to side and up and down. I use two dial indicators at once. One checking side to side run out and one checking out of round run out.
I don't think Honda built the front axle slightly bowed so if it is bowed, it needs to be replaced. A bowed axle will eventually ruin your front bearings and they will then cause a run out. I take it your front bearings are in good shape? They aren't that expensive so when you are there, why not replace them.... Taking your axle and rolling it on a smooth surface will give you a fast indication of its shape. If it rolls like a wooden legged Pirate walks, it is needing replacement.
A machine shop would chuck the rotors up in a lathe and use a dial indicator. They could tell you exactly how much run out there is in both side to side or out of round. If they are in good shape, the machine shop could give you a statement to the exact run out for the Testers to chew on since they are not experts and a machine shop is....
Our inspections on motorcycles only show up as death certificates!!! "Inspections, we don't need no stinking inspections!"