1000H brake fluctuation. Is it .....
#11
04-06-2009, 12:06 AM
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Classic, there is an easier way to to exactly what you did (did it to my last Hurrican 16 years ago). Take a piece of wire, like a coat hanger, wrap it aroudn the borrom of th efork, near the brake rotor/disk. Then do what you did, spind the wheel and slowly move the end untill it touches the rotor. Stop as soon as it makes contact, then rotate the wheel where the gap is the larges and measure it.
If the rotor is warped, mark the rotor and use a plastic hammer or a wood and a steel hammer and give it a slight whack. Then re measure it. Slowly you should be able to get the rotor back to spec but be easy with the hammering and have a really good look to make sure the rotor is not actually cracked.
If the rotor is warped, mark the rotor and use a plastic hammer or a wood and a steel hammer and give it a slight whack. Then re measure it. Slowly you should be able to get the rotor back to spec but be easy with the hammering and have a really good look to make sure the rotor is not actually cracked.
Yer , my point really was to just show that you can do it Imo...
I think if anyone thought about it for a few minutes, many different "Smart"ways could be figured out Maxwell LOL
If the rotor is warped, mark the rotor and use a plastic hammer or a wood and a steel hammer and give it a slight whack.
no chit!! , you belt the disk with a hammer... I have never tried that trick Imo..
Worth a shot though I suppose, if the disk is beyond passing and would be throw to the chiit house anyways
#12
04-06-2009, 11:50 PM
Super Moderator
Ok, the spindle or axle shaft doesn't spin. The inner race of the wheel bearing stays in place while the wheel rotates on the outer bearing races. I fail to see how this would cause the wheel to wobble. Unless it's bent so much that the bearings are wobbling inside the wheel, but that would have to be one serious bend.
#13
04-07-2009, 01:44 AM
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Ok, the spindle or axle shaft doesn't spin. The inner race of the wheel bearing stays in place while the wheel rotates on the outer bearing races. I fail to see how this would cause the wheel to wobble. Unless it's bent so much that the bearings are wobbling inside the wheel, but that would have to be one serious bend.
I also think it alone prolly would not have any effect on the wheel wobbling , but it may cause as you say , the bearing to wear prematurely and hence allow the wheel to wobble..
CBRClassic :
BTW- have to checked your wheel bearing in case they are allowing the wheel to wobble a touch ??
BTW- have to checked your wheel bearing in case they are allowing the wheel to wobble a touch ??
#14
04-07-2009, 04:07 AM
#15
04-07-2009, 06:10 AM
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Timeshard, if you do decide to replace the discs, don;t forget to get a new set of dampening shims. They go between the rotor and the wheel. Don't bother reusing them. I did when I went with EBC discs and I immediately got a pulsing feel in the brake lever at slow speeds. Finally got around to replacing them yesterday and the pulsing is gone. (also thew in a new set of steering head bearings after 70k+ miles)
#16
04-08-2009, 06:42 PM
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Sorry I havent been on , family issues.
Wow thanks for all the replies. guys coudnt find a metal coat hanger Imo000' 'so went out an bought myself some new frt disks and pads all round, took me an hour and 10 mins to do the lot.
There wernt any shims behind the disk 'malbojah' , and the wheels had been painted at some time because where the disk sits on the wheel under the six bolts there was paint which was removed back to metal just incase. Pads in the frt caliper were nissan, so are they original honda pads? shot any way.
New tyre on the frt as well ( already bought it before xmas and now I know the real condition of my tyres.
Chain all cleaned and lubed but found a few tight spots so thats another buy and chain riveter. Oh and rocker gasket on order cos thats peeing all over the bike and frame.
Spindle or axle to some hasnt turned up yet and intresting though on the bearings... but I have to stop chucking cash at it till Ive had anothyer wheel check.
Yep Shadow think its had a frt end tap but plastics only and maybe the spindle is down to an over zelous owner
Wow thanks for all the replies. guys coudnt find a metal coat hanger Imo000' 'so went out an bought myself some new frt disks and pads all round, took me an hour and 10 mins to do the lot
.There wernt any shims behind the disk 'malbojah' , and the wheels had been painted at some time because where the disk sits on the wheel under the six bolts there was paint which was removed back to metal just incase. Pads in the frt caliper were nissan, so are they original honda pads? shot any way.
New tyre on the frt as well ( already bought it before xmas and now I know the real condition of my tyres.
Chain all cleaned and lubed but found a few tight spots so thats another buy and chain riveter. Oh and rocker gasket on order cos thats peeing all over the bike and frame.
Spindle or axle to some hasnt turned up yet and intresting though on the bearings... but I have to stop chucking cash at it till Ive had anothyer wheel check.
Yep Shadow think its had a frt end tap but plastics only and maybe the spindle is down to an over zelous owner
#18
04-09-2009, 06:55 PM
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Ok guys bit of an update and another problem.
Had my new ebc's disks and pads all round and new spindle. Started puting everything back by the bible and everything was going fine apart from the abismal weather I was doing it in.
Rotors on, spindle greased and wheel on.
Pads changed on each caliper and put on.
All bolts checked and tightened.
After putting on the first caliper I noticed the pads binding a little more than I expected but the wheel did turn with me turning it. So carried on to the next one and the same thing happened? Now Its so tight its a struggle to move. Before the disks were on it turned freely. I know the pads are meaty but didnt expect that. Pumped the brake to see what would happen and they locked almost solid. then with more hand turning they moved a little bit more freely.
The caliper pistons moved quite freeley back and showed no sign of sticking. Loosened everything back off but no real difference. What am I missing?
Gave up and wanted to get the back wheel on and new pads on.
New pads in then cleaned everything and tried to get the wheel back together. Everything was going better until I tried to get the caliper back over the disk. It would keep fouling a tiny lip on the inner side of the carrier (its about 1.5mm prod on the carrier about 20mm from top down)
.
2 bloody hours it took me not to get it on ! cutting a long story short which ended with me fishing around in the rubbish trying to find the old pads I thrwe because I would never need them again.
The only way I could clear the lip on the inner side on the carrier was to put an old pad on the inner side of the caliper and keep my chunky ebc one on the outside (I know very bad practise but they do have meat on them)
This way It cleared the little lip easily and the wheel all went back on.
Have ebc made their standad pads to chunky for the calipers? Has anyone else had this? What have I missed?
Moral of the story 'Test the bike works with new parts Before you throw the old ones away'
Had my new ebc's disks and pads all round and new spindle. Started puting everything back by the bible and everything was going fine apart from the abismal weather I was doing it in.
Rotors on, spindle greased and wheel on.
Pads changed on each caliper and put on.
All bolts checked and tightened.
After putting on the first caliper I noticed the pads binding a little more than I expected but the wheel did turn with me turning it. So carried on to the next one and the same thing happened? Now Its so tight its a struggle to move. Before the disks were on it turned freely. I know the pads are meaty but didnt expect that. Pumped the brake to see what would happen and they locked almost solid. then with more hand turning they moved a little bit more freely.
The caliper pistons moved quite freeley back and showed no sign of sticking. Loosened everything back off but no real difference. What am I missing?
Gave up and wanted to get the back wheel on and new pads on.
New pads in then cleaned everything and tried to get the wheel back together. Everything was going better until I tried to get the caliper back over the disk. It would keep fouling a tiny lip on the inner side of the carrier (its about 1.5mm prod on the carrier about 20mm from top down)
.2 bloody hours it took me not to get it on ! cutting a long story short which ended with me fishing around in the rubbish trying to find the old pads I thrwe because I would never need them again.
The only way I could clear the lip on the inner side on the carrier was to put an old pad on the inner side of the caliper and keep my chunky ebc one on the outside (I know very bad practise but they do have meat on them)
This way It cleared the little lip easily and the wheel all went back on.
Have ebc made their standad pads to chunky for the calipers? Has anyone else had this? What have I missed?
Moral of the story 'Test the bike works with new parts Before you throw the old ones away'
#19
04-09-2009, 07:31 PM
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#20
04-09-2009, 07:47 PM
Don't for get , if you do this you may need some rags to catch any overflow you may get.