I have heard very differernt things when it comes down to the set-up of the sprockets and the result of doing so. So i figured i would try and put an end to all of it. Ive been reading that alot of people decide on buying the -1 tooth front sprocket and then just leave it at that. Well with the -1 tooth front sprocket you get more acceleration but less top end, right? well the mechanic at the local shop doesnt seem to think so, he told a buddy of mine that by adding 2 teeth to the front sprocket would increase acceleration, but decrease top speed. Could the mechanic be wrong? it just seems like common sense that the smaller the front sprocket the better acceleration you would get because it puts less stress on the motor. So i guess the problem i have is that there are 2 different opinions on how sprockets work in relation to their size. I wish there was like a chart that actually showed different levels of performance based upon what sprocket set-up you have. Ive always thought of buying the -1 tooth on the front sprocket just to get more acceleration, but also to still keep the bike relatively close to its stock powerband. Ive just been hearing two different sides of this, and if anybody has any clue on how this sprocket thing works, let me know. Thanks

 

well you are in luck I am that chart...as well as many others around here. First of it's all about ratios but you already know that. The lower the nuber of teeth for the front and the higher number of teeth for the rear equals faster acceleration and lower top end. However on some bikes mainly older ones areodynamics played a large roll in top speed where the engine acctually didn't have enmough power to get to top speed. So It is possible to drop one tooth on the front or raise one or two in the rear and acctually get the bike to reach a higher top speed.

Things to remember:
smaller front sprocket = more acceleration
bigger rear = more acceleration
a close rule of thumb is down one in front is near the same affect of up in rear

If at all possible get ahold of a gearing calculator(usually an excel spreadsheet) It will speel out of of this for you and you can see how diff sprockets change the output

Hope this helped!

 

Im in the process of trying -1 in the front and up 3 in the back.ill letcha know how everything turns out.

 

DO NOT! Repeat. DO NOT, take your bike to that "mechanic?".[sm=nono.gif]

 

By the way, I forgot to mention that going down 1 tooth in the front is roughly equivalent to going up 2.4 - 2.7 teeth in the rear. In other words, 1 down in the front and 2 up in the rear equals a final drive change of about 4.4 - 4.7 teeth.

 

Just read a good articel:
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0008_gearing/

Tells you exactly what - or + does both to the front and the rear...mathematically, to speed, and visually...hope it helps

 

Maybe the mechanic thought you said -1 in the back

 

lets hope he thought that you meant back or I wouldnt let him have anything to do with my bike.

 

man took the bike out for a quick spin around the block today and what a diffrence in acceleration going up 3 in the back and -1 in the front.The rpms remain a bit higher all the time so Im sure my mpg will also go down.I got all the low end torque that the 600 lacks with the stock set up.Well worth the 160 bucks for the DID 520 conversion.

 

dope price mang! where you go for 160 and what kit?