520
#1
520
hello fellasi know there has been a thousand post regarding the 520 conversion? i want to come of the line fast or at least 2ND gear. I dont quite understand how the sproket work with all the -1 +1 or +2? my bike read 186 while i was racing a friend of mine in I-75. But it took a while to actually start picking up. Will the 520 conversion make the bike get to high speed faster? Is it true that the chain sometimes pop because of to much torque on the 1000rr? Is it even worth it? What would be the best chain and the best set up for the bike.
thank you
thank you
#2
RE: 520
I'm sure you will get some feed back on this from the "big boys" here, but here's the opinion for a "little guy"
Your bike has a 530 chain because of the power you have. True, a lighter chain will reduce your unsprung weight (rotating mass) and shave some time it takes to build up speed or let you build more speed, but it's not going to be that big of a difference that you're screaming "oh my god!!!"
Ask if any other liter bikes have went to the 520 chain/cogs and if they replace them more often.
As for the -1 +1 or +2 cogs, it's simple gearing. You're not changing the HP of the bike, just how your transmission works. Smaller in the front and bigger in the back equals more torque at lower RPM range and slows your top speed down a little. If you reverse that, bigger in the front and smaller in the back, you end up taking longer to build up the speed, but gain more top end speed.
Hope that makes sense and if anyone cares to correct me or explain it better, please step in.
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Your bike has a 530 chain because of the power you have. True, a lighter chain will reduce your unsprung weight (rotating mass) and shave some time it takes to build up speed or let you build more speed, but it's not going to be that big of a difference that you're screaming "oh my god!!!"
Ask if any other liter bikes have went to the 520 chain/cogs and if they replace them more often.
As for the -1 +1 or +2 cogs, it's simple gearing. You're not changing the HP of the bike, just how your transmission works. Smaller in the front and bigger in the back equals more torque at lower RPM range and slows your top speed down a little. If you reverse that, bigger in the front and smaller in the back, you end up taking longer to build up the speed, but gain more top end speed.
Hope that makes sense and if anyone cares to correct me or explain it better, please step in.
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#3
RE: 520
hmm
ok 520 kits reduce rotating mass. which makes the engine not have to work as hard to spin up the rear wheel. also the lighter spinning weight makes the bike easier to flick around due to the centrifigual effect. you wont really notice the difference in just a 520 unless you are tracking the bike and hitting 100+ and tight twisties.
a properly installed rivit style master link will not pop because of torque.
some people say that 520 is too light for litre bikes but in reality people are running 10K+ miles on quality ones. I have 5K on mine and the chain has never needed adjustment once after the initial stretch. just keep it on the looser end of spec (always a good recommendation anyway) and you will be fine.
gearing- dropping teeth in the front and raising in the back will shift the powerband to the lower rpms causing the bike to take off faster at the sacrifice of top end. www.rogueracing.org has a good gearing calculator that will tell you what different front and rear combos will do to your top speed.
brands
DID ERV3 chains supposedly these are as strong as oem
RK also good but I dont know as much about them
sprockets
stay away from vortex. brad from superbikesupply.com sheared off teeth from one the first day
AFAM, their hardned AL will last 10K miles as long as the wheel is straight and the chain is lubed and tension set properly.
Also consider Sprocket Specialist or Driven
ok 520 kits reduce rotating mass. which makes the engine not have to work as hard to spin up the rear wheel. also the lighter spinning weight makes the bike easier to flick around due to the centrifigual effect. you wont really notice the difference in just a 520 unless you are tracking the bike and hitting 100+ and tight twisties.
a properly installed rivit style master link will not pop because of torque.
some people say that 520 is too light for litre bikes but in reality people are running 10K+ miles on quality ones. I have 5K on mine and the chain has never needed adjustment once after the initial stretch. just keep it on the looser end of spec (always a good recommendation anyway) and you will be fine.
gearing- dropping teeth in the front and raising in the back will shift the powerband to the lower rpms causing the bike to take off faster at the sacrifice of top end. www.rogueracing.org has a good gearing calculator that will tell you what different front and rear combos will do to your top speed.
brands
DID ERV3 chains supposedly these are as strong as oem
RK also good but I dont know as much about them
sprockets
stay away from vortex. brad from superbikesupply.com sheared off teeth from one the first day
AFAM, their hardned AL will last 10K miles as long as the wheel is straight and the chain is lubed and tension set properly.
Also consider Sprocket Specialist or Driven
#5
#7
RE: 520
ORIGINAL: Bracey0self
ive got the vortex with a DID chain with a little over 11k milesand nothing has gone wrong with mine.
ive got the vortex with a DID chain with a little over 11k milesand nothing has gone wrong with mine.
#8
#9
RE: 520
I used a DID chain with an aluminum Vortex rear sprocket. In my opinion the sprocket could wear better,as I have 6000 mileson it and it should be replaced. I went with a -1/+3 or 15/45, andI am thinking about going up another one or two in the rear. I will confess however that it took a little while to get used to the power difference when coming off a corner. The 520 I bought has stood up to the relentless abuseof my wheelies, burnouts and generally reckless driving practice. Go for it!