It took me 15 minutes, but 5 of that was trying to get the damned tank cover back on, because the rubber gasket around the gas cap opening snags on the plastic tabs. The best way to do it is to spray a couple drops of WD40 on your fingertip, and then run your finger all along the edge of the gasket and it will slide right on.

Basically, take off the seat and plastic tank cover. On the right hand side, up near the steering damper, pull down the rubber skirting and there is the hose. Unplug it, and find a medium sized marble. I think I had a 1/2" or so marble that was a perfect fit. You could also use a ball bearing. Use something spherical, rather than a plug made of a cut piece of round bar stock. The marble is much easier to remove if you ever need to. A drop of oil and you can squeeze the marble out because of the round surface. A plug that is cylinder shaped is much harder to remove, trust me!

So insert a marble or ball bearing that barely fits and might require a drop of oil to get it in. That will make a perfect seal. Push it down in about 1 inch, and reattach the hose to the airbox and put the seat and tank cover back on.

It really is that simple. That blocks the vacuum hose and completely disables the PAIR system, without having to remove the whole gas tank and airbox, without removing the system itself and having to block off the hole in the airbox, etc... This will greatly reduce the burbling and crackling and occcasional backfire when you go from WOT to closed throttle and let the motor slow you down. It stops the system from injecting air into the exhaust system, which is where the noise comes from as spent gases burn in the exhaust. This stops that. It also makes dyno tuning faster and easier because you normally have to disable the PAIR system so that the dyno does not read that extra air and think your bike is running lean! So you do it once here in 15 minutes and then forget about it.

Just like the golf tee in the flapper vacuum hose, it disables the system but is completely reversible in minutes if you needed to return it to stock form.

Anyway, here is the little slide show with instructions. Feel free to share it or download the pics to keep them.

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/...=15288172&

 

GREAT PIX...EASY TO UNDERSTAND...I DID ALL THE QUICK MODS..IE. FLAPPER/EGCV BUT NOT THIS ONE...HOW IS IT...BETTER..ALSO..HAVE U INSTALLED AN EXHAUST YET. I DID, AND IT SOUNDS CRAZEE LOUD..RUMBLES...U THINK THIS WILL SMOOTH OUT THE LOUDNESS OUT OF IT. IT DOES SEEM A BIT ROUGH. THANX
PEOPLE HEAR AND THEY SAY IT SOUNDS LIKE A DUCATI...AND IM LIKE HEH...DID I INSTALL IT RIGHT. I THINK SO.

 

I had punched out the stock exhaust and it sounded great... for a 600. LOL

Didn't have the low growl that I wanted, so I found a new Scorpion race can at my local Cycle Gear for $330. I installed that yesterday, which of course removes the exhaust valve, and I had already done the flapper mod.

 

thanx for the pics man. it doesnt get any simpler than that. will do it today!

 

do you leave the house just hanging there?

 

hey what kinda fender eliminator is that and does it come with blinkers....and how much did it cost?

 

What exactly is this mod and what does it do, i dont understand its purpose. the directions are crystal clear though.

 

I did this this afternoon and it was well worth it to me. That annoying poping when I let off in the harder corners is gone. No power gain but it was still worth it, maybe later I'll tear the whole system off kinda like the flapper.

 

Sorry to bump this post. I unlike most members on this forum have gone back and read everything there is to read before posting the same damn question over and over. Any ways When I had click on the link for the slide show the link worked but no pictures. I am interested in finding out more information.

Thank you

 

www.1000rr.net has more in-depth links to this mod-many in fact