There may be somecharging issues with my '04 1000RR, and I need some guidance on how to troubleshoot correctly. Either my multimeter is inadequate, or my running knowledge of electrical systems, or both. Please bear with me.

I started by installing a brand new battery and hooking my analogmultimeter to the terminals. It read about 12v. When I started the bike, it read about 12 or 12.5. When I turned on the high-beam andrevved the engine up above 5000rpm, it still showednothing higher than about 13v. So it appears that there is no charging taking place since I expect to see 14 or 15v. Is this correct?

My next step, according to the service manual, was to check for electrical draw, and I found none.

Then the next step is to check the resistance betweeen alternator leads. My manual says that the resistance between leads should read between .1 to 1.0 Ohm's. All combinations were exactly .5 Ohm's. Then thebook says there should be no continuity between the alternator leads and ground, but my multimeter still shows .5 Ohm's for all of them. Is that what it should read? Does 'no continuity' mean it should read 0 or infinity?

I also tried testing continuity between the 2P (Natural) connector and ground and found it to be .5 Ohm's. Book says there should be continuity at all times. This is where I started getting really confused.

I appreciate any help in getting this thing straightened out.

 

Your bike should put out around 14 volts at your battery terminals as you stated with a fully charged battery and lowbeam on. High beam may make a bit less. I know there is a recall issue on the 04 and 05 1000RR's with their charging system. You should have received a paper in the mail telling you about it. Not all 1000RR's were affected, but yours may be one of them. I would call the dealer and see what they have to say about it. It may a free fix for you.

 

So when I hook up the meter and start the bike, I should see a higher voltage than battery alone, right? Indicating that it is charging at thehigher voltage?

 

Yeah, you should see a higher voltage with bike running. It may take to around 2000 rpms or so, but it should be around 14 volts. 13.5 should be ok too, but it should be at least that.

Why were you checking it? did you have a problem with it dying? or are you just checking as you changed the battery?

 

Well, you know how you can sometimes tell when your battery is on its way out? Mine kinda crapped out over a 2-day course. So when I got the new one today, I wanted to make sure it wasn't the charging system that killed my old battery...

My multimeter is justa cheap analog type, so I don't know exactly how high it got. But it definitely didn't get above 13volts.

 

For whatever it's worth, I think my problem is resolved.

A local mechanic suggested the following. Test AC volts from alternator with engine running, shut down, then testDC volts from regulator/rectifier. Both showed a voltage increase as I revved the engine. So it seems to me that the charging system is working just fine.

I still wonder why the voltage at the battery never really exceeds 13v? Could it be because new batteries don't have as much demand for charging as old ones?

 

Ok if your battery is just at 12.0 VDC then that is low. You should be running a YTZ10S battery which at a full charge sits at about 12.8 vdc. When you buy the battery it should have a sticker saying that if battery voltage is at 12.6 vdc or lower you need to charge it before using. So that is part of your problem. Bikes have more a battery maintainer than a charging system. So if your battery is dead it isn't going to have enough power to really charge it like your car would. Since they went with a little of a charging system as possible to maximize HP and minimize weight. As for the stator leads. Yes when checking OHMS from one lead to another lead those readings should read 0.1-1.0 OHMS. But When you check one lead to ground you should read OLF, OUCH, or Infinity. Which ever your meter likes to say. =) If that isn't the case, that means the insulation has broken down and charing voltage will be leaking from stator to ground and instead of going threw your REG/REC and to your battery. But first charge your battery, if low you'll show a low voltage reading but there will be more AMPs going to battery which you aren't testing and you are unable to detect unless you have a amp meter connected up to is while you are testing.

 

I have a brand new YTZ10S battery, and the shop where I bought it charged it fully.

So far I've driven the bike for about 1hr total, and the battery still has its charge. If the bike isn't charging, then my battery would be dead or dying by now. I'm gonna ride it out, and if I notice my battery getting weak, then I'll have a mechanic look at it...