Hello Hows everyone today?, So I just rejetted my carb putting #135 and #45 as recommended after my settings. I put the carbs on, first wouldn't start, but then again its been 4 months since it was started, so I sprayed a little starter fluid and BOOM! it started!. But the freaking idle is at like 4krpm. I drove it for a good 20 minutes, and even after that it revved 4k.. I turned the idle screw thing that poped out of the bike to a point where it doesn't touch even the part. Also I noticed when i put it in first and then let the clutch go and then pull it in about 1/8th it revs down to like 1.5k. Besides that I don't have much info. Could it be an air leak(going to go home and spray starter around the filter and see if it is an air leak) .
My bike configuration:-
91 CBR1000F, 13" Delkevic exhaust 4-2-1 setup, Pilots were mentioned in the start.

I want to point out.. that when i turned the nozzle to OFF the bike revved down to 1k and went about 3 miles acting normal, then died cause the gas was off.

PLEASEEEEEEEE HELP!

 

What you are calling the nozzle is the petcock. The petcock is vacuum operated on your bike. I wonder if the diaphragm in the petcock is torn. I think I would start there as you say it makes a difference in how the bike runs.

There is a vacuum line running from the petcock to a port on the left side of the engine head by #1 cylinder. That line produce vacuum on the petcock to open the gas flow (auto on/auto shut off).

I'm just thinking that if that diaphragm were bad, one of two things could happen.
1-vacuum leak
2-suck gas into #1 cylinder by way of line.

By turning the petcock to off you close the leak.

I'd start there.

 

Well i checked that but the line isn't taking any gas .. Also forgot to mention that I have UNI Pod filters on them

 

Wait hold on.. I put the pilot jet all the way in.. do I have to unscrew it a little???

 

Did you sync the carbs? I could not get my idle under 3000 before the sync.

 

Pilot jet screws in snug to the "feel" like the mains

Outside of the body the pilot jet screws should be taken out cleaned & gently
screwed all the way back in to a "gentle" stop (not cranked in hard !)and then
backed out 2 1/2 turns.......for this you may find it easier to pull the carbs once again

and as McGyver says ....a sync/balance is a must do

 

1-inside the carb bowl, the jet #135, that alines with the needle is the main jet used for rpm's off idle, it should be seated.
2-inside the carb bowl, the jet #45, along side the main is the pilot jet used for low rpm's, it should be seated.
3-outside the bowl, the "D" shaped screw is the air/fuel mixture adjuster used to smooth out the idle. Like Sprock says, 2 1/2 turns out.

If the sync is WAY out, goofy idles WILL happen. The fact that you say the petcock makes a difference may point to it.

 

They (the air/pilot screws) are not "D" shaped on earlier bikes just 93 --->

 

Air correction jets which as has been said should be at 21/2 turns out as a guideline.
If there are any air leaks the bike will run lean and over rev at idle, but as it gets more revs it gets more fuel so the mixture will stabilise somewhat.
Pull the carbs, re-set the idle and adjust the air correction screws - there are springs and really small rubber o rings on them so be careful you don't lose any small parts.

 

Are they interchangeable?