CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

Fuel Valve Testing Help!!

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Old 05-22-2013, 10:31 AM
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Default Fuel Valve Testing Help!!

Hi again guys.

All ready to go with my bike now and ready for the big test start. FAILED

I am not getting any fuel past the fuel valve. I know it operates with a vacuum but is there anyway to test it. I have put 5L of fuel in what was a completely empty tank. I assume that is enough to allow fuel into the valve? The fuel gauge is completely zeroed out in the red zone (but that may just be a faulty sensor)

Any help would be much appreciated

Cheers.
 
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:18 PM
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There are 2 hoses connected to the fuel valve. One is large (fuel line) and one is small (vacuum line).
If you remove the smaller vacuum line and suck on it, fuel should flow through the large fuel line.
 
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:16 PM
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Excellent advice from a Kilgoretrout
 
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:44 PM
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If there's one thing I know how to do well.... it's make a mess with fuel.
 
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:05 AM
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What Trout didn't tell you -
remove the end that attaches to the tank - NOT the end that goes to the carburettor. Then suck on it........................
Which may explain why Trout ends up with fuel in his mouth HEHEHE

There's also a third connection on some of our bikes - the one I'm referring to points straight down. It has a hose which runs out either to overflow on the road, or somewhere on the carbs. To me it doesn't have any value, but if you confuse the hoses you still won't get any gas.............
 
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by kilgoretrout
There are 2 hoses connected to the fuel valve. One is large (fuel line) and one is small (vacuum line).
If you remove the smaller vacuum line and suck on it, fuel should flow through the large fuel line.
Tried that last night but still no fuel coming through. I can hear the diaphragm moving when I suck on the pipe. Has anybody done a stripdown on the petcock valve. It is a Keihin make (same as the carbs). I cant seem to find an exploded diagram of the valve anywhere. My bike is a 1997. I have seen some rebuild kits online but only seems to be the diaphragm side. I think my blockage problem is within the valve itself (possibly hardened fuel residue)

Good that you guys have confirmed that fuel should flow when sucking on it, I was not too sure if I was generating enough vacuum, but if you guys have seen and done it then that's good for me.

Are we all happy that 5L of fuel added to a COMPLETELY empty tank is enough to hit the outlet for the RESERVE valve position?

Thanks
 
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:18 AM
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1st question.

Have you pulled the valve assembly out of the tank and thoroughly cleaned out the intank filter that stops the rust and any other cr4p that accumulates inside the tankfrom getting to your carbs?

May well be a good idea to do that before attempting to get fuel through the valve as a blocked filter will really stuff things up.
 
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:35 AM
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I personal can't suck hard enough to get fuel to flow. I may not be as worldly experienced as others.LOL

I use a hand held vacuum brake bleeder to open the petcock.

Just a reminder: fully CCW (12 o-clock) is on, fully CW is RES (6 o-clock) and in the middle (3 o-clock) is OFF.
 
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:46 PM
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Are we all happy that 5L of fuel added to a COMPLETELY empty tank is enough to hit the outlet for the RESERVE valve position?
It should be but if your reserve is blocked maybe not. The bike leans towards the fuel outlet, so....................
Try opening your tank cap - maybe a blocked air release pipe too - it happens.

It sounds to me like there's a blockage there and it's not related to the vacuum - possibly in the tank. This is what your fuel tap looks like inside. It's not really clear in the pics but both main and reserve have filters which are covered with a fine (very) filter and have an internal filter as well, so any clogging of these will cause your fuel flow to stop.

I may not be as worldly experienced as others.LOL

And TBT had a sheltered upbringing
 
Attached Thumbnails Fuel Valve Testing Help!!-petcock.jpg   Fuel Valve Testing Help!!-petcock2.jpg  
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Shadow
Are we all happy that 5L of fuel added to a COMPLETELY empty tank is enough to hit the outlet for the RESERVE valve position?
It should be but if your reserve is blocked maybe not. The bike leans towards the fuel outlet, so....................
Try opening your tank cap - maybe a blocked air release pipe too - it happens.

It sounds to me like there's a blockage there and it's not related to the vacuum - possibly in the tank. This is what your fuel tap looks like inside. It's not really clear in the pics but both main and reserve have filters which are covered with a fine (very) filter and have an internal filter as well, so any clogging of these will cause your fuel flow to stop.

I may not be as worldly experienced as others.LOL

And TBT had a sheltered upbringing

Thanks to all for the advice. I stripped down the petcock valve last night on the kitchen table (wife was well happy!!). The diaphragm and rubber valve seat are connected by a stainless steel tube (all 3 connected as a single part). I went behind the diaphragm and pulled on the (what I now know to be) the seat rubber. It made a popping sound and I thought i has damaged it. In fact the rubber had actually bound itself to the seat (bike has been idle for 8 years). Tested it on the table by sucking on the tube, worked perfect (in both reserve and ON positions)

Got the bike started last night (FANTASTIC) but then there was fuel leaking in the area of 3&4 carb and bike dies at low revs (). Had a look on the forum and maybe looks like a sticking float. Hopefully get more detail over the weekend, hopefully don't need to take those bloody carbs off again!!

Once again thanks to all who contributed.

Maybe a post coming soon re the fuel leak.
 


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