I purchased my second 1989 Hurricane. She sat for about 1 year. The battery actually still sorta works, so I know the bike was remotely used. Anyhow. I don't immediately want to go running and spend $$$ on $70/hr labor.

The question: what do I do? hahaha...more specifically, I have the clymer's repair manual, now what do I need to do to get these carbs up and running? remove them, clean it w/ carb cleaner, replace floats? if so, anyone done it and can tell me how hard/easy it is on this F1 ? any "oh DO NOT FORGET" steps? or "I learned this the hard way..." comments about this procedure i'm about to embark on?

Thanks

 

since you have the manual, give it a read, its pretty detailed on teardown and build up of the carbs.
be careful to not tear the float bowl seals, they are expensive, some people have used o-rings. also be careful with the vacume slide diaphrams.
keep the parts seperate from each carb. the original parts need to go back in the carb it came from.
make sure you bench sync the carbs before you reinstall the assembly on the bike. you need to make sure each throttle valve is at the specified position on all of them.
there are alot of O-rings and fuel tubes connecting the carbs, all of these need to be in good shape.
i would start by just removing the carbs, leaving them attached to the base plate. just pull the floatbowls, spray them down, and go from there.

 

Hey, is that the "exploded view"? Bah,ha,ha!
Was there anyone else at your house that objected to you using the dining room table as a shop bench?
Is that a bag of weed or a bag of parts next to the allen wrenches?

 

come on now, i live with a couple other guys, our kitchen table doesn't get used to eat on. the bag may or may not be weed... actualy i think its the locking tabs that hold the tumpet bolts/carbs to baseplate.

 

Besides the breakdown & clean (best version) Check this stuff out! https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f-hurricane-38/sea-foam-106041/

 

Update -- I finished. I took them all apart this weekend (over two days). I was meticulous and very careful. I purchased a can of carb cleaner ($3) and air-in-a-can ($8). I took them off, it was insanely hard to pull then carbs off the motorcycle. I had loosened the clamps completely and was yanking and tugging and ready to give up after 30 minutes. Finally they just came off, don't ask me how, they just did after one good yank.

Taking them apart I ran into a problem with the backplate (golden screws) were insanely tight. I almost stripped one. I tried WD40, I tried putting the screw driver on the head and using a hammer, and I tried cursing -- non worked, thats when I stopped. The next day I woke up and decided to use a ratchet w/ a screw-end in the socket. That worked amazingly well. I had to use the ratchet method on the bracket that keeps them all connected (holds the choke).

Once I had them apart I was careful to label everything. I removed the diaphragm, cleaned the needle with carb cleaner and I wiped down the piston.

I removed the by-starter valve. Sprayed it, wiped it down (no biggie here).

I then removed the float bowl. lots of gunk in there. The needle jet, main jet, and pilot jet were all clogged. no light would pass through them. I put them in about 1 inch of carb cleaner while I cleaned the float and bowl with carb cleaner and then sprayed with air. Then went back to the jets and sprayed them (carb cleaner, then air) and used a guitar-e-string to clean the holes (they needed it).

I then sprayed every hole with carb cleaner followed by air in the carb, inside, outside, the throttle body, inside the fuel line and wiped it all down with a shop rag.

I then put it all back together carefully. Bystarter valve -- tighten. then the needle jet, the main jet, then the pilot jet. then the Float valve (needle valve) and floats. I made sure not to bend the tab on the floats whatsoever as i put it back. I put the cover on. I did the same for the diaphragm. Also, I made sure the little tab on the float valve (where the float connects) moved in/out with slight pressure from the tab on the float. One did not, so I sprayed it more (carb-cleaner+air) and then it came back to life.

Did that for all four.

then came time to put it all back together -- clymer's manual not the best helpful for this. Good thing i took pictures! i took the picture assembled from all angles. used tape to mark "throttle cable, choke cable", etc. so I put it back together, slowly and very carefully. I assembled carb1&carb2 then used some wide vise-grips to hold them together while I put carb3&carb4 together. Then when it came time to put those two pieces together I was very patient making sure the synchronize spring was on, making sure the spring between carbs1/2 and carb 3/4 was there and making sure the air and fuel tubes were connected. Putting the bracket to hold them all together was tough, but I managed to put in the first and last screw (out of 8) and that got me going (now this is not the bracket w/ the gold screws yet). Then i put the back-plate (gold screws) on.

Now its sitting on my table waiting to be put back into the bike.

Then gotta do the spark plugs -- for good measure and I purchased a battery charger so I will charge the battery this week and hopefully i'll post the outcome.

I'm afraid of "spewing gas from carb" or "leak between carb 2&3" like i've seen in so many other posts.

I'll report back soon.

 

Hey nice going. If you find the Clymer manual is not so good, Rrasco has a genuine Honda CBR600F shop manual for download at CBRExtreme. Dem carbs are always a bitch to get off the head - rubber connectors all stiff. Next time you pull the carbs off the head, try pulling on just one side (ie #1 or #4 carb) so you're not trying to pull all 4 rubber connectors off at the same time. Makes it real easy.

I wonder if your description and the other contributions should be stickied?

 

I guess if this one should be stickied then by all means, stick her up! It would help someone at least know that when they get the urge to spray the carb with carb cleaner that I have done it also. But lets wait until I actually update with "She's running!".

I got the battery charger in the mail -- tried testing my battery -- no good. Oh well. I guess I got to bite the bullet and buy a new battery. Anyone know anywhere I can get a good deal ? I saw $70 on DennisKirk.com anything better than that? And while we're at it, anyone know good place for spark plugs?

 

i bought a walmart battery for about $40.
you can use a car battery to start it. i use jumper cables and clip them to the stock terminals. its a good idea if you're gonna be cranking it alot. if you dont pull the battery out of the car, make sure the car isn't running.
did you get the carbs back on the bike? did you make sure all the throttle valves are adjusted the same? this will get you pretty close on the sync, good enough for it to start, but you will need to sync them again once running. a little vasoline or spit on the carb boots will make them install real easy.

 

One thing I noticed was that you sprayed carb cleaner into the fuel line, never do that again, carb cleaner and any rubber do not mix, it eats rubber alive from what I hear.