advice with braking and rotor size
 

so i havent had the time to pick up a few books that i want. and im trying to figure out this physics problem.
yes i understand bigger brake rotors equals more leverage, BUT! i want quicker braking, but i dont think bigger rotors is the solution.
i imagine all that bigger rotors or more pistons, surface area, etc, does is require less pull on the brake handle, and creates less heat, thats about it isnt it?
i have some braided steel lines coming in to take care of brake fade so i was wondering about my rotors.

bonus question? if i followed kevin schwantz advice would i set my suspension up to allow for stronger braking like no compression or less sag??
btw incase you guys don't know, "Wait 'til you see God-then brake!" -Kevin Schwantz
i know you want to get braking done early but i imagine perfecting braking can win you races because you passed the guy in front.

A larger brake rotor will act like a longer wrench, provide the same torque with less force, therefore creating less heat, as well the rotors having a larger area dissipate the heat better. Not sure qhat you mean by quicker braking but if your getting fade put steel lines on and flush your fluid. Different master cylinders will give different feels as well as different pads.

brakes turn kinetic energy into heat(and a little bit of sound and maybe some light). that's it. That's all that's happening.

If your rotors are capable of dissipating all the heat generated by your stopping, repeatedly, then they are big enough. If you run larger rotors than you need, you are adding weight, rotational mass, expense etc for no reason.

if they are not capable, then you need to find out why. Is it your fluid? Your pads? your lines? master cylinder? Fluid? YOU?

If your brakes are dissipating the heat well, but after a few laps, (or a few corners) cannot, you need to find out how to cool them better. Pad compounds have lots to do with cooling, as can fluid. If working with that stuff is insufficient, you will have to look at different calipers or rotors.

On bikes, we can't do too much about external cooling like in cars, as our rotors are pretty well exposed to lots of high speed air as it is.

These are all great questions above in terms of WHY the braking isn't what the OP is looking for. As a riding coach that focusses on technique first and foremost I especially like your question about whether or not the problem may be the rider, so let's take a look at what good braking technique looks like and how to most effectively control your braking. For the OP, are you most concerned with emergency braking and increasing your emergency stopping distance? Or with setting up your entry speed and carrying more speed/less brakes into the corner? Can you describe how you are approaching braking from a technique standpoint? :)

The OP was 7 years ago.....

OOOOPS. I'm usually good about checking OP dates hahaha but I guess not this time. Maybe it's still a valid question? :)

hahahaha, ooopsie!

But, hey, its a good question and may generate some good conversation