How To: Replace your Automatic Cam Chain Tensioner
#31
#32
So, retract the spring first and you'll be grand.
#33
Already having a bad time unfortunately because that's what i tried to do. A different process with the F2 engine I dealt with last time so i figured this swap would be the same. Should've read a little more before starting. Now my motorcycle only runs when push started and I have to keep readjusting the manual CCT in order to do so and then again to get rid of the rattle. It runs afterwards by locking the nut, but then when cold I have to repeat the same process. Im sure it would be a good decision to keep it on ice right now. I think I messed up pretty bad. It still runs so I still have hope though. Is there enough room to break open the valve cover to check the timing without dropping the engine?
Last edited by FLspeedracer; 01-27-2011 at 09:20 AM.
#34
I opened up the cover on the pulse cover and set the #1 piston to top dead center. Readjusted the manual CCT that I'm borrowing and even though it had some trouble starting at first, it fired up after about the 5th try and it ran well. But then after about a minute or two while trying to let the battery recharge itself, I got the harley davidson effect. Is there something I'm missing or am i just screwed without having to replace the chain or guides? Also, while I was setting the engine to TDC, there was a click sound at about every 1/4 turn. Is this normal? I would appreciate some feedback.
Last edited by FLspeedracer; 01-29-2011 at 12:23 PM.
#38
#40
I'm not aware of a specific time frame from Honda. They seem to need replacing in the 40K to 50K miles, but also in the 8 to 10 year age period as well. Since all of our bikes are beyond that, most are due for it. I believe that this adds to the belief that they fail often and that's why people recommend the manual one. The manual one you don't have to replace, but you do have to adjust it every once in a while.