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-   -   How To: Change your oil on CBR 600F3 (https://cbrforum.com/forum/stickies-91/how-change-your-oil-cbr-600f3-101751/)

IDoDirt 10-04-2009 08:45 AM

How To: Change your oil on CBR 600F3
 
18 Attachment(s)
So, you want to change your own oil instead of paying a shop to do it. That's a great decision. Changing your own oil is an easy task that anyone can do, you only need a few simple tools, and it give you the opportunity to get to know your bike a little better. I'm going to include as many pictures as I can since they tell a better story. If you haven't read this article on Motorcycles, filters and Oil, I highly recommend it.
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html
Well, to start with get together the things your're going to need.

•Drain pan
•Oil Filter (I use the Puralator PureONE PL14612)
•Oil (I use the Shell Rotella T Full Synthetic 5w40)
•Allen wrench 5mm
•Filter Tool
•Socket wrench
•Torque wrench
•Misc. rags, gloves, screw container

Attachment 60328

Having a nice clean area is always nice to work in. Clear the area you're going to work in so you can be comfortable. If you have paddoc stands, they're nice but not necessary. My wifes F3 has the optional center stand so I use that. Neither of these are needed, but make it nice when checking the oil level after since the bike needs to be level, not leaning on it's side stand.
Attachment 60329

To start with, you need to remove the lower fairings on the right side. Remove the right side cover (below the seat) first to gain access to 2 of the screws holding the lower fairings on.
Attachment 60330

You also need to remove the lower front fairing thats located in front of the headers.
Attachment 60331

There are 7 allen head screws, and 1 plastic snap pin (located on the inside lower cowl behind the turn signal) and you end up looking like this.
Attachment 60332

The first thing would be to drain the old oil. Place the drain pan under the bike, remove the drain bolt, located in the rear left corner of the oil pan and drain the old oil from the bike.
Here's the drain bolt, it's fairly large and easy to recognize.
Attachment 60333

Remove the bolt.
Attachment 60334

Drain the oil.
Attachment 60335

After it stops coming out (drips slowly) put the plug back in and tighten it to the proper torque specs (check your shop manual for your specific year). Then it's on the replacing the oil filter.
I always put a black line on the filter and engine so I can tell if the filter is coming loose with just a glance. If you look closely you can see it on the filter in the photo up above.
I use a 8" section of 2" angle aluminum as a drain trough to catch the oil that comes out from the filter when I remove it. I got it at Home Depot one time when working on another project. A small piece of cardboard box would do as well, cut and folded in a similar shape.
Attachment 60336

It fits very nicely in under the filter and above the headers. I place the oil drain pan under the end of the trough to catch the oil as it comes out. Use the filter wrench to loosen the filter. Many times I can just use my hand to grab a hold of the filter and break it loose without the wrench.
Attachment 60337

I just loosen the oil filter a little to start with and allow it to drain out. Then I loosen it more and tip up the end of it to allow more oil to drain out before removing it completely.
Attachment 60338
Attachment 60339

After removing the filter, put a little oil on the gasket of the new filter before installing it.
Attachment 60340

Tighten the filter until the gasket just comes into contact with the engine. Then tighten it 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn further. That's all the tight it needs to go. I then put my black line on the filter to mark it's position for future reference.
Attachment 60341

Now fill the engine back with oil. The 97 takes 3.9 quarts (just shy of a gallon) when you replace the filter too. The oil goes in through the opening where the dip stick is. Just remove the dip stick, use a funnel and add your oil. To check the oil level, insert the dipstick to the threads, but don't screw it in. The bike needs to be level at this time, if you've got the bike on the side stand. Get someone to hold the bike level for you.
Attachment 60342
Attachment 60343

Then check the level. The oil should not be above the upper mark on the dipstick.
Attachment 60344
Attachment 60345

After getting the level right, put the dipstick in, tighten it up and start the engine. Let it run for a few minutes. Then turn it off and check the level again. If it checks good, put the fairings back on and take it for a ride.

chuckbear 10-08-2009 02:54 PM

Great write-up dirt! I'm going to use a couple of your tricks as my own next time I'm due for a change.. :icon_teeth:

phillycbr 10-08-2009 03:11 PM

Are all bikes supposed to have a dipstick. Mine doesn't. 2000 f4.

Incognito 10-08-2009 03:46 PM

Nice write-up http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...land/thumb.gif The F4 has a sight glass on the lower right side.

IDoDirt 10-08-2009 04:39 PM


Originally Posted by phillycbr (Post 846198)
Are all bikes supposed to have a dipstick. Mine doesn't. 2000 f4.

Don't feel bad phillycbr, I helped a friend of mine work on his 2005 600RR. When I took the filler cap off, all I could think of was "did it fall in ?". It took me a few minutes to realize it wasn't supposed to have one and that it did have a Site Glass as pointed out by Incognito.

Chuckbear,

I say beg, barrow, steel, don't reinvent the wheel. Take any ideas you like, that's what they're here for.

adrielsmith90 10-09-2009 05:30 AM

Thanks for the information. It is very useful one as it gives the clear idea to do in the right way.

96@cbr 11-06-2009 07:55 PM

nice write up!!

pontyhufc 01-04-2010 12:53 PM

+1 on the bit of angle metal did mine yesterday and been moping oil of the downpipes for ages. Oh and the garage floor lol

ambassador_ed 01-16-2010 02:08 AM

awsome job!

kaer600 05-09-2010 08:55 PM

Great write up.


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