hand position questions
#11
I cover the brake with 2 fingers except when droning on the highway.
Also re: hand position, I found it's a lot more comfortable to rotate the levers as far forward/down as you can, so you can cover the levers without cocking your wrists. A straight line from elbow to knuckles is much easier on your carpal tunnel and less fatiguing.
Also re: hand position, I found it's a lot more comfortable to rotate the levers as far forward/down as you can, so you can cover the levers without cocking your wrists. A straight line from elbow to knuckles is much easier on your carpal tunnel and less fatiguing.
#12
I only put my fingers on the brakes when i'm in traffic. open roads, i'm all grip.
i feel bad for your ladies. they are missin out...
i feel bad for your ladies. they are missin out...
#13
#14
#15
#16
#17
I'm pretty new to bikes myself, and maybe I'm wrong about this, but I wouldn't be grabbing the front brake with all four fingers. Seems to me you might end up taking a flight over the handle bars.
#18
If you need 4 fingers to lock the front up, your brakes need work or you are riding a older model harley.
I, generally, associate anyone riding with a full grip on the throttle and no 2-finger on the brake/clutch levers as a newb. It adds several 10th's of a second to reach and respond if you don't ride that way.
At 60mph that's about 10 feet traveled per 10th, at 30mph 5 feet. That is typically the difference between a close call and catastrophe. Especially when you add in the typical 1/5 of a sec to comprehend and fire the muscles which adds another 20-25 feet closer to disaster.
So, as previously opinioned, I still think that f4i guy is best keeping that particular skill intact and should not be discouraged from always keeping a ready grip on the levers, at all times.
As for how/when on front /rear braking. In MY opinion, at any speed over about 30mph use front brakes only (the bike is going to rock forward and make rear braking negligable/hazardeous). Once you get below 30-ish and/or when the bike has settled from the initial front brake application THEN it's time for the rear brakes. Below 30mph use of both together will work pretty well, since the suspension isn't being subject to as much forward shift (generally).
As far as down-shifting simultaneous with braking, MSF has started discouraging the practice because it involoves too many co-ordinated actions to be done and STILL get maximum braking from the bike. That is NOT saying that very skilled/experienced riders can't or shouldn't use the tecnique, but all lesser riders should forgo in favor of shortest distance braking. When that includes you personally, you'll have to judge.
As Kuro has said, repeatedly, get out in an empty lot and try/practice these various techniques. Use a marker to begin each time from the same speed and you will see for yourself what we're talking about (not to mention, get that muscle memory ready for the real thing).
I hope this particular discussion helps save everyone involved some hide and money, Ern
I, generally, associate anyone riding with a full grip on the throttle and no 2-finger on the brake/clutch levers as a newb. It adds several 10th's of a second to reach and respond if you don't ride that way.
At 60mph that's about 10 feet traveled per 10th, at 30mph 5 feet. That is typically the difference between a close call and catastrophe. Especially when you add in the typical 1/5 of a sec to comprehend and fire the muscles which adds another 20-25 feet closer to disaster.
So, as previously opinioned, I still think that f4i guy is best keeping that particular skill intact and should not be discouraged from always keeping a ready grip on the levers, at all times.
As for how/when on front /rear braking. In MY opinion, at any speed over about 30mph use front brakes only (the bike is going to rock forward and make rear braking negligable/hazardeous). Once you get below 30-ish and/or when the bike has settled from the initial front brake application THEN it's time for the rear brakes. Below 30mph use of both together will work pretty well, since the suspension isn't being subject to as much forward shift (generally).
As far as down-shifting simultaneous with braking, MSF has started discouraging the practice because it involoves too many co-ordinated actions to be done and STILL get maximum braking from the bike. That is NOT saying that very skilled/experienced riders can't or shouldn't use the tecnique, but all lesser riders should forgo in favor of shortest distance braking. When that includes you personally, you'll have to judge.
As Kuro has said, repeatedly, get out in an empty lot and try/practice these various techniques. Use a marker to begin each time from the same speed and you will see for yourself what we're talking about (not to mention, get that muscle memory ready for the real thing).
I hope this particular discussion helps save everyone involved some hide and money, Ern
#19
As for braking practice, it doesn't hurt to do it during normal riding. Often I'll hold off longer than normal when approaching a light / stop sign before applying the brakes. I only do this on roads I know extremely well with no traffic anywhere near me. Basically I practice doing 30mph - 0mph on an almost daily basis.
And another important thing about practicing braking: you should practice it at the speeds you travel. I think it was in Nick Ienatsch's Sport Riding Techniques where he said if you ride at 120 mph you better be able to stop from 120 mph. Of course that's obviously extreme since people should only be doing 120 mph at the track (and who stops on the track? ). But it is true that you need to know how to stop from 35 mph and 55 mph.
Not just the 15 mph - 20 mph the MSF makes people stop from to pass the test.
#20
Yes but I still think he should use 2 fingers on the brake. The index finger is too close to the fulcrum point to provide effective braking without a lot more effort than index + middle finger. 2 fingers also provide a much more secure grip on a potentially life saving control.