Hello all,
I am looking for some help. I ride an XR400 not a CBR(if I rode street I would be on a CBR) I am making the XR road worhty for short road runs. I bought a CBR1000 left handlbar switch. It has horn, turn signals, and a hi/lo. I removed the clutch switch wires and am left with baby blue, orange, lite green, black/brown stripe, orange/white stripe, grey, baby blue/white stripe, white, dark blue/white stripe, and white/green stripe. I have no idea what wire does what. I have looked a a couple diagrams and got really confused.I am planning on having a horn, left/right signals, hi/low beams, brake light, and a small battery. I understand the stator,rectifier to battery part, it is after the battery I get stuck. I want to know what wire on the switch is hot, ground, basically what wire goes where. I hope someone out there can help.
Thanks in advance
Nick

 

If you open the housing on the split (where it wraps around the bar), you should be
able to see where the corresponding wires are hooked up to the switches. That
should give you the right way to hook up to the XR's harness. Or extra wiring you'll be
adding for the lighting. Do the hook-ups to the battery with a small buss in-line between,
that'll save you a bunch of wires going to the battery. Then just use in-line fuses to
3 different circuits... head-light (20amp), turn/running lights (15amp) and horn (10amp).
You really should use a relay on the head-light circuit, though.
The bar switch isn't made for that kind of load.

Hope this helps, Ern

 

madhattr,
thanks, I did that and found 2 for the horn, 3 for turn, and 2 for hi/lo. This leaves 3 un spoken for wires. First guess is 1 hot lead and 1 ground, and I would guess a kickstand switch wire possibly. I am guessing the 3 wires at the turn switch are left, right, and a common ground? I need to know what wire would be the hot and what would be ground or if the third wire (my common ground) wire at the turn signal is the only ground and the remaining 3 wires are 1 hot and 2 for the kickstand(not needed if so) I don't understand why I am letting this make me so retarded. Thanks in advance
Nick

 

The turn signal switch doesn't need to be grounded. I haven't taken a 1000f:s switch assembly, but i'd recon they're not that different. I Guess the wiring for the turn signals would be: center=hot and the sides are plus wires for each side. The signals are grounded to the frame. And Madhattr: are those fuse grades from a bike or did you just made them up? Seems a bit big to me...

And yes, the headlight needs to be relayed. The switch cannot take the load.

 

^ taken apart that is... Mobile version doesn't allow me to edit... If you're still stumped, I can try to sketch up a simplified schematic next weekend if I can get my hands on an original one.

And one more thing... Some kind of master switch (ignition lock) would be a good idea too. A good place to fork your hot wires, to put a master fuse before it, and if possible, get the others tidy into a fuse box.

 

Fuse loads are a ballpark, they shouldn't get you in trouble. If you look at the fuse loads in the stock
fuse block, that's the ratings they are using for the various designated circuits.

You could go to a 10 for the signals/running lights and 5 for the horn circuit, I suppose. But, I wouldn't
go less on the head-light or you'll probably be replacing it a lot, if you use a standard/halogen type incandescent bulbs.

Ern

 

^ agreed. Was just thinking that the running lights have to be behind the same fuse than the headlight, unless they are divided after the light switch. Taken into account a situation where the brake is engaged and the passing light is pressed at the same time, the overall load spikes over 10amps, so the fuse would have to be a 20, a 15 could pop over time from the spikes. I thought of this during the day and came into the same conclusion that since there are just light bulbs and no fiddly electronics, and basically the only thing that can go bad is a short, the grades are not that important, given the fact that they are within reasonable grades...

Another thing that came into my mind is that you're gonna need a blinker relay too. A general one costs a few bucks here, and can be purchased from practically any service station...

 

welcome to CBRf

hope you can figure all this out, good luck on the project

 

OK, I have had some time to spend on the elecrical on the XR. I have taken the CBR switch apart again. I figured out and tested the turn signal and horn circuits. Now the hi/lo switch seems to act as an on off switch for the hi beam (only two wires). I guess I thought there would be a hot lead in to the hi/lo then your two wires(hi/lo) for a total of three. Also The three extra wires I spoke of earlier all have continuity across all three. What/how can I use these? and how would this get wired? I only have a single dual filament bulb, so I don't think you can run the lo beam as an always on then hit the hi beam and have both filaments on. The bulb would overheat. The CBR the switch came from has two separate bulbs which would make sence for how this thing seems to be wired. A little more help guys would be much appreciated. Thanks

 

Simple. Use the wire that normally feeds the lo beam through the lights on/off switch as a continuous power, and command a switch-relay with the hi beam switch power. This way there's only one filament lit at a time. I'll try to remember to sketch up a simple schematic when I get home.

Is the original schematic somewhere in the net to be seen? I could try to figure out what's what.