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That depends on how many parts were stripped why it was used as a donor and so forth. How much time and money do you have as well as mechanical ability?
Welcome to the forum PR76,
Well that is certainly a question....
How much is the offer? Do you have any idea of the history, how many miles on it, is the frame and or forks bent, what sort of crash happened (seems like it was front end impact) and what parts have been removed? It certainly seems to be missing good few bits. Clocks starter relays, mud guard (fender), seat etc at first glance and damage to fairing (which may be salvageable), calipers could be seized as they seem to be unbolted. Carbs would certainly need fully stripped down and refurbished along with probably a tank clean and also the usual consumable parts and fluids.
If it free then as a project if you have the time and patience to source parts etc then possibly. If you have to start buying new OEM (assuming you could get them) then that would be horrifically expensive.
The positives are that the motors are generally bullet proof and they are a great bike and that is the last of the carbed versions
I'm sure the other will have similar comments but lets see and keep us up to date on what you decide to do.
That depends on how many parts were stripped why it was used as a donor and so forth. How much time and money do you have as well as mechanical ability?
as far as I know the guy brought two bike both not running been layed up in a shed for years so he made one good bike out of both
he want 100 for the bike and what bites are there. It not been in a smash was just put away and never used again couldn’t get it started so sold them both.
parts I can see that’s missing is seat, seat fairing, ignition key holder, clocks, one brake caliper front,
it has keys and ecu with it I’ll have to take some more pictures Monday when I get to work.
all plastics I can repair and paint.
Mechanical work on a car I can do any job where this will get me is the electrics if it’s got “is it miss security”? Immobilizer or something like that.
at 100 shouldn’t cost much to fix and I’d probably keep it as it’s going to be classic soon
oh and I think it’s done 70,000 ish but should be good for me surly
Welcome to the forum PR76,
Well that is certainly a question....
How much is the offer? Do you have any idea of the history, how many miles on it, is the frame and or forks bent, what sort of crash happened (seems like it was front end impact) and what parts have been removed? It certainly seems to be missing good few bits. Clocks starter relays, mud guard (fender), seat etc at first glance and damage to fairing (which may be salvageable), calipers could be seized as they seem to be unbolted. Carbs would certainly need fully stripped down and refurbished along with probably a tank clean and also the usual consumable parts and fluids.
If it free then as a project if you have the time and patience to source parts etc then possibly. If you have to start buying new OEM (assuming you could get them) then that would be horrifically expensive.
The positives are that the motors are generally bullet proof and they are a great bike and that is the last of the carbed versions
I'm sure the other will have similar comments but lets see and keep us up to date on what you decide to do.
Cheers
Al
this is the plate
last msg was for u to buddy still trying to work out this msging lol
As long as you have the original ecu and keys, then the HISS security system should be intact so should not be an issue. 70k is starting to get a bit long in the tooth but if regularly maintained 100k plus is very achievable.
If starting was the problem then getting back to basics and having to strip the bike down to refurb etc I would recommend doing the valves (bucket and shim) along with the cam chain tensioner as well and carbs and filters so you are positive that the mechanical bits are sound before starting on the fuel air and spark elements.
As long as you have the original ecu and keys, then the HISS security system should be intact so should not be an issue. 70k is starting to get a bit long in the tooth but if regularly maintained 100k plus is very achievable.
If starting was the problem then getting back to basics and having to strip the bike down to refurb etc I would recommend doing the valves (bucket and shim) along with the cam chain tensioner as well and carbs and filters so you are positive that the mechanical bits are sound before starting on the fuel air and spark elements.
oh ok that’s the question though aint it I’m not 100% if the key and ecu is for this bike.
How would I tell?
ok something to work with. Is it worth 100? I don’t think 100 is much money for what there is I probably wouldn’t ride it no more that couple times a year anyway as I need to sort my license out first due to just motorcross