02 Blackbird... making her perfect
#1
02 Blackbird... making her perfect
Third edit... I cannot edit posts (I think a new user limitation), so could someone ignore the last post for this thread, and put this post as the first one? I think I finally have the images right
Hey, 2011 was the first year I could purchase a bike for parent reasons, but I bought a 2002 cr125 as a learning tool, rode the hell out of it, then bought my blackbird (great first bike, right?) Posting here for some ideas on a few things, and any input you guys have...
Bought this bike in July of 2011, had been dropped in a driveway. It had power commander 2, two bros slipon, a mystery 4 -2 - 1 exhaust system (please look at pictures and see if you can help me identify), chrome wheels, polished frame, cut undertail, and a couple other mods.
This winter is my first opportunity to really clean up the bird and do all the maintenance I've wanted to do since I bought it. It is my first bike and I've put about 6k on her. I want her to look pretty much pristine. All I did when I bought it was Michelin Pilot Powers and GN4
So far I have done:
Oil (GN4)
Oil Filter (K&N because of the nut on the end)
Spark Plugs (NGK IMR9A9H)
Air Filter (Stock Honda):
Coolant (Honda HP)
Sand clear coat and polish carbon fiber 2bros slipon as it was scratched and marked from the bike being dropped, it got three coats, gonna sand in a few days
Detail bike with plastics off
Removed rear wheel degreased entire rear swingarm, rear sprocket, and polished the chrome wheel.
polished my frame up to remove oxidation
polished the swingarm to remove oxidation
before:
after:
cleaned my chain with kerosene and lube it (little rust)
Painted stator and clutch cover as when the bike was dropped these got scratched. Went 2 coats high temp, 3 coats clear
New bar weights
HIDs
I also plan on doing:
Previous owner put on cheap ebay turn signals and cut the undertail, so I will be making his cut cleaner, filling in the turn signal holes,
and installing this:
New Plastics, I plan on going with ebay plastics:
Pyramid Seat cowl:
It came with the decals slightly bubbled, and a small paint imperfection, but it's a pain to send it back so whatever.
New Windscreen (Mine was imperfect):
Questions:
What Kind of exhaust is installed on the bike (I know the slipon is a 2bros but the actual headers to exhaust)?
How the hell should I go about fixing my undertail? I want to add a 1/4 inch to the bottom of where the last owner cut, fill in all the holes (including the turn signal holes) and make it look flat... ideas?
Anything else I should do or check or do differently? Any other ideas?
Hey, 2011 was the first year I could purchase a bike for parent reasons, but I bought a 2002 cr125 as a learning tool, rode the hell out of it, then bought my blackbird (great first bike, right?) Posting here for some ideas on a few things, and any input you guys have...
Bought this bike in July of 2011, had been dropped in a driveway. It had power commander 2, two bros slipon, a mystery 4 -2 - 1 exhaust system (please look at pictures and see if you can help me identify), chrome wheels, polished frame, cut undertail, and a couple other mods.
This winter is my first opportunity to really clean up the bird and do all the maintenance I've wanted to do since I bought it. It is my first bike and I've put about 6k on her. I want her to look pretty much pristine. All I did when I bought it was Michelin Pilot Powers and GN4
So far I have done:
Oil (GN4)
Oil Filter (K&N because of the nut on the end)
Spark Plugs (NGK IMR9A9H)
Air Filter (Stock Honda):
Coolant (Honda HP)
Sand clear coat and polish carbon fiber 2bros slipon as it was scratched and marked from the bike being dropped, it got three coats, gonna sand in a few days
Detail bike with plastics off
Removed rear wheel degreased entire rear swingarm, rear sprocket, and polished the chrome wheel.
polished my frame up to remove oxidation
polished the swingarm to remove oxidation
before:
after:
cleaned my chain with kerosene and lube it (little rust)
Painted stator and clutch cover as when the bike was dropped these got scratched. Went 2 coats high temp, 3 coats clear
New bar weights
HIDs
I also plan on doing:
Previous owner put on cheap ebay turn signals and cut the undertail, so I will be making his cut cleaner, filling in the turn signal holes,
and installing this:
New Plastics, I plan on going with ebay plastics:
Pyramid Seat cowl:
It came with the decals slightly bubbled, and a small paint imperfection, but it's a pain to send it back so whatever.
New Windscreen (Mine was imperfect):
Questions:
What Kind of exhaust is installed on the bike (I know the slipon is a 2bros but the actual headers to exhaust)?
How the hell should I go about fixing my undertail? I want to add a 1/4 inch to the bottom of where the last owner cut, fill in all the holes (including the turn signal holes) and make it look flat... ideas?
Anything else I should do or check or do differently? Any other ideas?
Last edited by blackxxbird; 01-08-2012 at 08:32 PM. Reason: fix images
#3
Pics don't show up here, but you can see them if you quote the OP, copy the image links, and paste into a new tab.
Not sure what exhaust that is; Yoshi, Akra, and Hindle all made headers for the XX. Pics aren't very clear but it looks like yours has some welded joints where my Akra has separate pieces. In any case, it's a huge improvement over the massive stock cans.
Check the upper rear shock mount and see if it has a shim installed. A 6mm (1/4") shim will raise the rear end a bit and improve the handling.
I would ditch the K&N at your next oil change. There are industries where oil filtration is a very big deal (like operating fleets of big trucks) and filters have been tested extensively. With the consistent result that K&N is crap, only missing last place because Fram is even worse. Get an oil filter wrench and a real filter. Unlike some (Suzuki, I'm looking in your general direction) Honda uses standard thread so you have a wide choice of automotive filters. Purolator Pure One, Bosch, Mobil1, and surprisingly, Walmart Supertech are recommended -- these last 3 are all made by Champion, guess which one is cheapest?
Not sure what exhaust that is; Yoshi, Akra, and Hindle all made headers for the XX. Pics aren't very clear but it looks like yours has some welded joints where my Akra has separate pieces. In any case, it's a huge improvement over the massive stock cans.
Check the upper rear shock mount and see if it has a shim installed. A 6mm (1/4") shim will raise the rear end a bit and improve the handling.
I would ditch the K&N at your next oil change. There are industries where oil filtration is a very big deal (like operating fleets of big trucks) and filters have been tested extensively. With the consistent result that K&N is crap, only missing last place because Fram is even worse. Get an oil filter wrench and a real filter. Unlike some (Suzuki, I'm looking in your general direction) Honda uses standard thread so you have a wide choice of automotive filters. Purolator Pure One, Bosch, Mobil1, and surprisingly, Walmart Supertech are recommended -- these last 3 are all made by Champion, guess which one is cheapest?
#4
Pics don't show up here, but you can see them if you quote the OP, copy the image links, and paste into a new tab.
Not sure what exhaust that is; Yoshi, Akra, and Hindle all made headers for the XX. Pics aren't very clear but it looks like yours has some welded joints where my Akra has separate pieces. In any case, it's a huge improvement over the massive stock cans.
Check the upper rear shock mount and see if it has a shim installed. A 6mm (1/4") shim will raise the rear end a bit and improve the handling.
I would ditch the K&N at your next oil change. There are industries where oil filtration is a very big deal (like operating fleets of big trucks) and filters have been tested extensively. With the consistent result that K&N is crap, only missing last place because Fram is even worse. Get an oil filter wrench and a real filter. Unlike some (Suzuki, I'm looking in your general direction) Honda uses standard thread so you have a wide choice of automotive filters. Purolator Pure One, Bosch, Mobil1, and surprisingly, Walmart Supertech are recommended -- these last 3 are all made by Champion, guess which one is cheapest?
Not sure what exhaust that is; Yoshi, Akra, and Hindle all made headers for the XX. Pics aren't very clear but it looks like yours has some welded joints where my Akra has separate pieces. In any case, it's a huge improvement over the massive stock cans.
Check the upper rear shock mount and see if it has a shim installed. A 6mm (1/4") shim will raise the rear end a bit and improve the handling.
I would ditch the K&N at your next oil change. There are industries where oil filtration is a very big deal (like operating fleets of big trucks) and filters have been tested extensively. With the consistent result that K&N is crap, only missing last place because Fram is even worse. Get an oil filter wrench and a real filter. Unlike some (Suzuki, I'm looking in your general direction) Honda uses standard thread so you have a wide choice of automotive filters. Purolator Pure One, Bosch, Mobil1, and surprisingly, Walmart Supertech are recommended -- these last 3 are all made by Champion, guess which one is cheapest?
I always that K&N was a champion labs product, same as a Mobil1 filter when you take it apart?
I haven't checked for the 6mm shim, but if it does not have one I will be putting one there at the advice of everyone on cbrxx.com
#5
Hey, pics are showing up now after the last edit
Looks like you've covered the basics pretty well. How many miles are on the bike? A lot of people think the stock suspension was inadequate when new, never mind when it's got 30K miles on it. You can rebuild the front with Racetech components for a cost effective improvement. I did a complete ZX-14 front end swap, but that's a little extreme for most people
The rear isn't so easy, there are no cheap effective replacements for the rear shock. You can either buy an aftermarket bolt-in replacement ($$) or get your hands on a few other shocks that will fit and have them rebuilt and resprung to suit. One thing you can do that isn't in the manual is adjust the rear preload the old-school way, with the adjuster rings on the top threaded portion of the shock. You'll need a spanner wrench (adjustable one at Harbor Freight for less than $20) or you can go caveman and do it with a hammer and drift punch.
I'm a big fan of the ebay Pazzo knockoff levers, also a Vista Cruise or other throttle lock comes in handy on the highway. As you've probably discovered, the XX is so smooth you can find yourself doubling the speed limit without realizing it.
I found the stock seat really uncomfortable on long rides, and I also wanted a solo cowl, so I ended up getting a Corbin Smuggler seat. Much more comfy, and the locking storage under the cowl is invaluable.
And . . . I just noticed something: you still have your centerstand. Most 4-2-1 systems don't have the centerstand stop built in, it might be easier to ID your exhaust if you took some pics of that area.
Looks like you've covered the basics pretty well. How many miles are on the bike? A lot of people think the stock suspension was inadequate when new, never mind when it's got 30K miles on it. You can rebuild the front with Racetech components for a cost effective improvement. I did a complete ZX-14 front end swap, but that's a little extreme for most people
The rear isn't so easy, there are no cheap effective replacements for the rear shock. You can either buy an aftermarket bolt-in replacement ($$) or get your hands on a few other shocks that will fit and have them rebuilt and resprung to suit. One thing you can do that isn't in the manual is adjust the rear preload the old-school way, with the adjuster rings on the top threaded portion of the shock. You'll need a spanner wrench (adjustable one at Harbor Freight for less than $20) or you can go caveman and do it with a hammer and drift punch.
I'm a big fan of the ebay Pazzo knockoff levers, also a Vista Cruise or other throttle lock comes in handy on the highway. As you've probably discovered, the XX is so smooth you can find yourself doubling the speed limit without realizing it.
I found the stock seat really uncomfortable on long rides, and I also wanted a solo cowl, so I ended up getting a Corbin Smuggler seat. Much more comfy, and the locking storage under the cowl is invaluable.
And . . . I just noticed something: you still have your centerstand. Most 4-2-1 systems don't have the centerstand stop built in, it might be easier to ID your exhaust if you took some pics of that area.
#6
Hey, pics are showing up now after the last edit
Looks like you've covered the basics pretty well. How many miles are on the bike? A lot of people think the stock suspension was inadequate when new, never mind when it's got 30K miles on it. You can rebuild the front with Racetech components for a cost effective improvement. I did a complete ZX-14 front end swap, but that's a little extreme for most people
Looks like you've covered the basics pretty well. How many miles are on the bike? A lot of people think the stock suspension was inadequate when new, never mind when it's got 30K miles on it. You can rebuild the front with Racetech components for a cost effective improvement. I did a complete ZX-14 front end swap, but that's a little extreme for most people
The rear isn't so easy, there are no cheap effective replacements for the rear shock. You can either buy an aftermarket bolt-in replacement ($$) or get your hands on a few other shocks that will fit and have them rebuilt and resprung to suit. One thing you can do that isn't in the manual is adjust the rear preload the old-school way, with the adjuster rings on the top threaded portion of the shock. You'll need a spanner wrench (adjustable one at Harbor Freight for less than $20) or you can go caveman and do it with a hammer and drift punch.
I'll get a real camera and get detailed pictures tomorrow... thanks for all the replies!
#8
That reminds me -- you can get the filters in 2 sizes: short (about 2.5") and long (3.25"). The bigger filter is recommended whenever possible, and I'm pretty sure I had one on there when I upgraded my exhaust . . . I bet I won't be able to get it off without loosening the headers
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