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02 Blackbird... making her perfect

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Old 01-08-2012, 11:20 AM
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Default 02 Blackbird... making her perfect

Third edit... I cannot edit posts (I think a new user limitation), so could someone ignore the last post for this thread, and put this post as the first one? I think I finally have the images right

Hey, 2011 was the first year I could purchase a bike for parent reasons, but I bought a 2002 cr125 as a learning tool, rode the hell out of it, then bought my blackbird (great first bike, right?) Posting here for some ideas on a few things, and any input you guys have...

Bought this bike in July of 2011, had been dropped in a driveway. It had power commander 2, two bros slipon, a mystery 4 -2 - 1 exhaust system (please look at pictures and see if you can help me identify), chrome wheels, polished frame, cut undertail, and a couple other mods.





This winter is my first opportunity to really clean up the bird and do all the maintenance I've wanted to do since I bought it. It is my first bike and I've put about 6k on her. I want her to look pretty much pristine. All I did when I bought it was Michelin Pilot Powers and GN4





So far I have done:
Oil (GN4)

Oil Filter (K&N because of the nut on the end)

Spark Plugs (NGK IMR9A9H)

Air Filter (Stock Honda):


Coolant (Honda HP)

Sand clear coat and polish carbon fiber 2bros slipon as it was scratched and marked from the bike being dropped, it got three coats, gonna sand in a few days


Detail bike with plastics off

Removed rear wheel degreased entire rear swingarm, rear sprocket, and polished the chrome wheel.


polished my frame up to remove oxidation
polished the swingarm to remove oxidation

before:


after:


cleaned my chain with kerosene and lube it (little rust)



Painted stator and clutch cover as when the bike was dropped these got scratched. Went 2 coats high temp, 3 coats clear




New bar weights


HIDs





I also plan on doing:

Previous owner put on cheap ebay turn signals and cut the undertail, so I will be making his cut cleaner, filling in the turn signal holes,



and installing this:



New Plastics, I plan on going with ebay plastics:


Pyramid Seat cowl:

It came with the decals slightly bubbled, and a small paint imperfection, but it's a pain to send it back so whatever.


New Windscreen (Mine was imperfect):


Questions:

What Kind of exhaust is installed on the bike (I know the slipon is a 2bros but the actual headers to exhaust)?



How the hell should I go about fixing my undertail? I want to add a 1/4 inch to the bottom of where the last owner cut, fill in all the holes (including the turn signal holes) and make it look flat... ideas?



Anything else I should do or check or do differently? Any other ideas?
 

Last edited by blackxxbird; 01-08-2012 at 08:32 PM. Reason: fix images
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:41 PM
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maybe its my computer, but i cant see any pics
 
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Old 01-08-2012, 03:53 PM
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Pics don't show up here, but you can see them if you quote the OP, copy the image links, and paste into a new tab.

Not sure what exhaust that is; Yoshi, Akra, and Hindle all made headers for the XX. Pics aren't very clear but it looks like yours has some welded joints where my Akra has separate pieces. In any case, it's a huge improvement over the massive stock cans.

Check the upper rear shock mount and see if it has a shim installed. A 6mm (1/4") shim will raise the rear end a bit and improve the handling.

I would ditch the K&N at your next oil change. There are industries where oil filtration is a very big deal (like operating fleets of big trucks) and filters have been tested extensively. With the consistent result that K&N is crap, only missing last place because Fram is even worse. Get an oil filter wrench and a real filter. Unlike some (Suzuki, I'm looking in your general direction) Honda uses standard thread so you have a wide choice of automotive filters. Purolator Pure One, Bosch, Mobil1, and surprisingly, Walmart Supertech are recommended -- these last 3 are all made by Champion, guess which one is cheapest?
 
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Red_Eye
Pics don't show up here, but you can see them if you quote the OP, copy the image links, and paste into a new tab.

Not sure what exhaust that is; Yoshi, Akra, and Hindle all made headers for the XX. Pics aren't very clear but it looks like yours has some welded joints where my Akra has separate pieces. In any case, it's a huge improvement over the massive stock cans.

Check the upper rear shock mount and see if it has a shim installed. A 6mm (1/4") shim will raise the rear end a bit and improve the handling.

I would ditch the K&N at your next oil change. There are industries where oil filtration is a very big deal (like operating fleets of big trucks) and filters have been tested extensively. With the consistent result that K&N is crap, only missing last place because Fram is even worse. Get an oil filter wrench and a real filter. Unlike some (Suzuki, I'm looking in your general direction) Honda uses standard thread so you have a wide choice of automotive filters. Purolator Pure One, Bosch, Mobil1, and surprisingly, Walmart Supertech are recommended -- these last 3 are all made by Champion, guess which one is cheapest?

I always that K&N was a champion labs product, same as a Mobil1 filter when you take it apart?



I haven't checked for the 6mm shim, but if it does not have one I will be putting one there at the advice of everyone on cbrxx.com
 
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:24 PM
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Hey, pics are showing up now after the last edit

Looks like you've covered the basics pretty well. How many miles are on the bike? A lot of people think the stock suspension was inadequate when new, never mind when it's got 30K miles on it. You can rebuild the front with Racetech components for a cost effective improvement. I did a complete ZX-14 front end swap, but that's a little extreme for most people

The rear isn't so easy, there are no cheap effective replacements for the rear shock. You can either buy an aftermarket bolt-in replacement ($$) or get your hands on a few other shocks that will fit and have them rebuilt and resprung to suit. One thing you can do that isn't in the manual is adjust the rear preload the old-school way, with the adjuster rings on the top threaded portion of the shock. You'll need a spanner wrench (adjustable one at Harbor Freight for less than $20) or you can go caveman and do it with a hammer and drift punch.

I'm a big fan of the ebay Pazzo knockoff levers, also a Vista Cruise or other throttle lock comes in handy on the highway. As you've probably discovered, the XX is so smooth you can find yourself doubling the speed limit without realizing it.

I found the stock seat really uncomfortable on long rides, and I also wanted a solo cowl, so I ended up getting a Corbin Smuggler seat. Much more comfy, and the locking storage under the cowl is invaluable.

And . . . I just noticed something: you still have your centerstand. Most 4-2-1 systems don't have the centerstand stop built in, it might be easier to ID your exhaust if you took some pics of that area.
 
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Red_Eye
Hey, pics are showing up now after the last edit

Looks like you've covered the basics pretty well. How many miles are on the bike? A lot of people think the stock suspension was inadequate when new, never mind when it's got 30K miles on it. You can rebuild the front with Racetech components for a cost effective improvement. I did a complete ZX-14 front end swap, but that's a little extreme for most people
The bike has 16k miles...

Originally Posted by Red_Eye
The rear isn't so easy, there are no cheap effective replacements for the rear shock. You can either buy an aftermarket bolt-in replacement ($$) or get your hands on a few other shocks that will fit and have them rebuilt and resprung to suit. One thing you can do that isn't in the manual is adjust the rear preload the old-school way, with the adjuster rings on the top threaded portion of the shock. You'll need a spanner wrench (adjustable one at Harbor Freight for less than $20) or you can go caveman and do it with a hammer and drift punch.
This will be next winter lol, Money is the limiting factor, and after this batch of rehab I'm broke. I'll probably end up going with a bolt in replacement.

Originally Posted by Red_Eye
I'm a big fan of the ebay Pazzo knockoff levers, also a Vista Cruise or other throttle lock comes in handy on the highway. As you've probably discovered, the XX is so smooth you can find yourself doubling the speed limit without realizing it.
I do like those levers, the coating on mine is wearing off so they do oxidize, I'll probably end up getting those sometime this summer.

Originally Posted by Red_Eye
I found the stock seat really uncomfortable on long rides, and I also wanted a solo cowl, so I ended up getting a Corbin Smuggler seat. Much more comfy, and the locking storage under the cowl is invaluable.
I would've liked to do this but cost made itself a problem lol.

Originally Posted by Red_Eye
And . . . I just noticed something: you still have your centerstand. Most 4-2-1 systems don't have the centerstand stop built in, it might be easier to ID your exhaust if you took some pics of that area.
I'll get a real camera and get detailed pictures tomorrow... thanks for all the replies!
 
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:49 PM
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welcome to CBRF

havent you heard, bird is the word.....she is going to look amazing. keep up the good work
 
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by blackxxbird
I always that K&N was a champion labs product, same as a Mobil1 filter when you take it apart?
I can't find the article right now, but I think it there was an issue with the anti-drainback valve or maybe the bypass. I use Bosch anyway; one of the places I get car parts from stocks them so whenever I need parts I order a bunch. I have 5 Hondas that all use the same filter, and I just heard an adapter is available for Suzukis (2 Katanas and a quad) so it pays to stock up

That reminds me -- you can get the filters in 2 sizes: short (about 2.5") and long (3.25"). The bigger filter is recommended whenever possible, and I'm pretty sure I had one on there when I upgraded my exhaust . . . I bet I won't be able to get it off without loosening the headers
 
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