Avoid K&N oil & air filtres like plague! Oil filtres blow up and cause fires. Air filtre lets in way too much dust and causes premature engine wear. I had to rebuild my track car's engine after only 2-yrs instead of 5.

Best bet if you're looking for more power is:

- hook up air-tubes, really helps in high-end

- dyno-tune bike. Factory map is super-rich by default and uses O2-sensor feedback to lean out mixtures to more optimum levels. You can expect 5-10% gain from just cleaning up and flattening out AFR



For example, here's my race-bike Ninja 250 before and after dyno-tuning with no hardware mods.


Note factory mixtures super-rich from 7K-rpm+ (blue). All bikes are programmed this way from factory as safety margin in case you get bad petrol on super-hot day out in boonies. Or if fuel-pump was failing or injectors clogging up. Can blow up engine if it was tuned for max-power from factory.

By leaning out mixtures to max-power setting of 13.5:1 AFR across board, bike was way faster with more mid-range torque and +14% more power! No bolt-on mod can give you that kind of boost!

Use PEA-based fuel-system cleaner every once in while to keep fuel-system clean so you don't run lean:

Red Line SI-1
Techron Concentrate Plus
3M Max Strength Fuel System Cleaner #08814
Royal Purple Max Atomizer 18000
Gumout All-in-One (might be off list soon due to lowering amounts of PEA)

 

Noted so back to my factory air cleaner but normal commute bike not looking at any real issues with no tubes. ? Tubes are pending but as of now don’t have them And damn that 250 got way more power after dyno

 

Yeah, for commuting, tubes won't make much difference.

Factory filter best as there isn't much restriction in airbox. Flow is primarily limited by head port shapes and cam-specs.

Exhaust will help some and save weight. Maybe do that next so you can dyno tune to optimise that as well.

 

Ok new question if don’t mind. So bike runs fantastic now. New tires chain sprockets etc. so I been having over heating issues at stop lights like coolant boiling over. So stop instantly let cool down. So checked all hoses and I discovered water pump has one fin. New water pump put on. Checked thermostat for the pieces there is no thermostat. Ok so now I assume pieces maybe in the radiator
snd clogging passage ? Hot
to me is 215 and fan not cooling this ****er down. Since I changed the pump it is very slow to rise now but still does not get cooler with fan only when take off riding. Is this normal. Replace radiator next ?

 

Uh oh... take radiator completely off and shove garden-hose in outlet end and reverse-flush it. See what comes out. Really give it good flush. Then put hose on inlet side and let it flow normally. Does it really gush out? If so, radiator is fine.

1. verify fan works by applying power & ground directly to fan-plug terminals

2. verify fan connector on harness has constant +12v on one side when key ON

3. Does fan turn ON at +220F? Usually thermoswitch trips around 220-225F and turns on fan. Test thermoswitch to verify temp when it connects.

 

I just bought a brand new radiator. Figured new water pump and radiator can eliminate those all together I ran a manual wire so I have the fan on a switch it never worked when I got it. I figured bad thermo switch or you name it but I can just flip it on manually now. I’ve never seen it get above 230 with fan on but I feel should
be little cooler for sure. I will flush out this radiator on it now to just do an entire flush but is there anything else’s I should aim at. I don’t notice coolant loss or smoke out pipe or power loss only in first gear but I assume that’s a clutch going out. Go figures right but did the oil plugs everything basicallt just dealing with this. Bike stays cool while riding but seems to climb pretty high at a stand still. That’s when discovered water pump was one fin and bent. Had zero circulation. So I assume those fin made their way to the radiator since there is no thermostat in this bike. Previous owner must of known about get bike getting hot

 

So like mentioned I put the fan onto a switch and now works great. The water pump is brand new. I don’t notice boil over anymore. I assume from actually having water flow now. But my question is radiator swap
to a new one should help ? And if the stock thermoswitch opens at 225 obviously mine is now switched but 220
is not that hot I guess for this bike then ? But the fan should start to cool it down or does the fan just kind of hold that temp until you take off again. Basically that’s what is happening it will get up
to
the 220s I put my fan on and it kind of just holds there and will increase every min or so 1 degree until I get some wind again does that sound normal

 

I just remember previous bikes actually going downward once I put the fan on

 

What kind of coolant do you have? Best thermal-conductivity is pure distilled water with some Water Wetter added. Everything else sheds heat slower. Only reason to have coolant is really for freezing protection, but it hinders heat-shedding when hot.

Also did you run it for while with radiator-cap off to collect bubbles at top of radiator? Then fill up to top again before putting cap on?

 

Autozone 50/50 but if distilled is best and water wetter will get that in morning. And no didn’t burp
the system actually just read about doing that. Ill
do that plus new rad install
and report back this week