Replacing the Stator damper/ starter clutch
Guest
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Stu's link is down
, so you can use this one for a while ... I hope ..
http://74.125.93.132/search?q=cache:...ient=firefox-a
http://74.125.93.132/search?q=cache:...ient=firefox-a
Guest
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Yer, ... I checked it a week or so ago and it was working then too ...he must be still in the land of the living hey Pete ...
good to know ... lol
http://www.stu.co.nz/cbr1000fix
good to know ... lolhttp://www.stu.co.nz/cbr1000fix
Have just joined this forum after buying a CBR1000F with this starting problem as described by Stu.
Now I've removed all the necessary parts and I'm waiting for the new damper to arrive. I have a problem though, having an inquisitive mind I moved the bottom chain adjuster up the ratchet made a couple of clicks and is now holding the tensioner too close and I fear I won't be able to fit the new damper.
Can the tensioner be slackened off from the alternator opening or will I have to split the cases?
Any advice would be appreciated.
I love the site and all the posts helping riders like me out. Thanks
Andy
Now I've removed all the necessary parts and I'm waiting for the new damper to arrive. I have a problem though, having an inquisitive mind I moved the bottom chain adjuster up the ratchet made a couple of clicks and is now holding the tensioner too close and I fear I won't be able to fit the new damper.
Can the tensioner be slackened off from the alternator opening or will I have to split the cases?
Any advice would be appreciated.
I love the site and all the posts helping riders like me out. Thanks
Andy
It is possible, It requires the removal of the oil pump, and can be done with the engine installed. After removing the oil pump you can access the tab on the tensioner to release the rachet (I used a long Snap-On cotter pin remover). Yeah, it sucks lay'in on your back, but I think it's a lot better than pulling the engine and splitting cases.
It is possible, It requires the removal of the oil pump, and can be done with the engine installed. After removing the oil pump you can access the tab on the tensioner to release the rachet (I used a long Snap-On cotter pin remover). Yeah, it sucks lay'in on your back, but I think it's a lot better than pulling the engine and splitting cases.
I did it without even removing the pump. I bent some wire, poked it in from the starter hole over the alternator chain and down to the ratchet pawl. Left it in there while I reassembled the alternator shaft in, tightened everything then pulled it out!

Cheers, SB



pm him I'm sure