Alternator chain too slack
 

Hello everyone. I've been reading items form this forum for a while since buying my first 1000F about two months ago but have not had time or reason to post anything until now.
About a week ago I prepared to ride home from work in the pouring rain, pushed the starter button only to hear a noise that sounded like gears stripping their teeth off. After trying it once more just to check that I wasn't having a bad dream I bumped started it and rode home my usual 44 mile journey without any problem, except the damned rain.
I spent the evening trawling through the forum trying to discover what could be wrong in the starter department and became convinced that it would probably be the starter damper as so many of you seem to have had trouble with this little thing.
I've now taken out the alternator and found that the alternator chain is so slack that it is not biting on the crank. The chain tensioner is completely shot. If I put tensoin on the chain with my fingers it bites nicely on the crank shaft sprocket.
I am now resigning myself to having to split the cases and change the tensioner.
My question is, has anyone ever found a cunning way of either replacing the tensioner without splitting the cases or even repairing it in situ.
It would appear that the spring on the tensioner shaft is not doing anything at all. It just slides up and down. Strange!
The manual is not very specific about the detailed assembly of the tensioner.
I would really appreciate some guidance from anyone who has had time to examine one of these at close quarters.
As this is my first post I must say that I've really learned a lot about the bikes from the wealth of information in this forum and would like to be able to contribute constructively in future.
Long ago I was a bike mechanic and worked for a few bike shops in London. I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty when I have the time. :icon_bike:

My question is, has anyone ever found a cunning way of either replacing the tensioner without splitting the cases or even repairing it in situ.


I don't know of anyone who has ever successfully replaced the primary chain without splitting the motor. I have a similar problem with my bike after having done the damper repair, recently.
Looks like we're both going to be pulling engines.
Does anyone else have any comments ?

I can see we'll be booking some holiday and sharing stories of woe. If the wielder of the silver hammer is as baffled as I am it looks ominous. Why isn't there a smiley that sums up my sense of defeat. Can someone design a picture of someone doing a bump start?
I am still working on how to insert a new spring. There is a way.... I just need the light bulb to come on. Bear with me.

When the light comes on, send some of that brightness my way, please ! :)
The primary chain being slack should not cause you to have to bump start the bike....
sounds like a flat battery ? Damper is shot - can't really check it as you can't put enough pressure on the damper by hand. I rebuilt my damper (added an extra spring to it) and that's working fine, but the primary chain is another story, I feel..................

Of course the chain being slack would cause me to have to bump start the bike. If it's not biting on the crank how else is the starter motor going to transfer drive to it? Sorry
The battery was almost empty when I took it out. I've never seen a battery so bereft of fluid in all my born days. It was hard to believe it could still be functioning. After topping up with distilled water it seems fine. I don't think it's very old.
The bike, whilst in show room condition (almost) on the outside has obviously not been looked after as it should.
As far as the light bulb, I'm thinking how to get another spring wound round the ACT shaft. There must be a way. It's almost bed time. let's see what happens in my dreams. I have need of a eureka moment..... Damned if I'm going to give up yet!!!
Now where did I put my sedatives?

I had a wander outside and took another look at the problem. I can see that the ratchet in the chain tensioner has failed. If I put tension on the chain with my fingers and pull the sprung loaded shaft all the way out I can get the chain to touch both of the guides and bite nicely on the crankshaft. I'm thinking about some kind of split tube that could be put round the shaft to hold it out in lieu of the ratchet. It doesn't need to be so tight that there's no play in the chain but I think if I can do this it will put an end to the problem and solve that damned rattle that it's had since I bought it. I don't believe it was ever the cam chain. Why would it stop when I turned on the head lights if it were.
Many ideas are forming in fact but if this non case splitting fix is to be worth while it needs to be something that won't come apart and fall into the engine after two miles.
Anyone else following my train of thought?
Anyone know any good gynaeolcoligists? Some hints on working in confined spaces would be welcome.

We need a set of Nano Technology tools ... inject them in and let the little buggers rebuild the parts at an atomic level ...

Either that or just pull the bloody engine apart ...
Sometimes I think that in the long run , a full strip down although painfully slow , can be a good thing ... ok om trying to be optimistic here ...lol

I recon , where it comes to these types of part replacements goes .... just ripping in and doing the strip and clean and replacement all in one huge effort is the way to go .
I have found that frigging around and prolonging a strip down once they are apart, is a big mistake!! :icon_doh: and can wind up turning a 1or 2 day effort into a torturous ordeal, that can run weeks !!

Throw yourself and your tool box at them ... and you may save a few days , sitting there pouring cans down your throat while pondering a quick fix that is neither practical or even possible ..

Bloody hell, is it really possible to see when other members of the forum are drinking. That's damned clever.
It does help ones mind think outside the box sometimes though.
I know what you're saying and I agree with you but in this case I have nothing to loose by giving this a little more thought.
I'll keep you posted.....
Sorry this light bulb hasn't come on yet.

LOL:icon_teeth:

Good luck mate ...hope the drinking goes well ....

oopps:icon_doh: , om mean the thinking goes well .... :icon_teeth:




om outta here to work now ... :icon_shrug:

haveagoodone..http://www.cbr-riders.com/forum/imag...s/smiley20.gif

Of course the chain being slack would cause me to have to bump start the bike. If it's not biting on the crank how else is the starter motor going to transfer drive to it? Sorry
The chain runs between two geared units as far as I know - if it's not connected at both ends there's a really big.problem........The starter doesn't run directly off the chain. I still don't see how slack in the chain will prevent you from starting the bike on the battery- it'll be noisy but it should start - mine does..........................
I think your problem is the battery - if it's not in good condition, the bike will turn over but WON'T start. Put a good battery in it and even if the primary chain is slack she should start. A bike with a bad battery will bump start.....................
Just for info........................:)
Keep thinking of a way to resolve the tensioner problem...........pleeeeease !
If the starter clutch has gone, that might be the reason that she sounds like a bucket of bolts - ? Hard to tell from here with no sound.