This is the paint job I have been bragging about. It looks awesome. I will admit a detail touch up gun instead of a full size spray gun works about 400% better for painting motorcycle plastics.




Also, if anyone in VA is lookin to get their stuff painted, I'll do it for free all you need to do it supply materials. I like doing this kinda stuff.

 

It did come out looking great, have any pics of the process?

 

Ok I just finished my fairing last night; it actually looks really good except one small problem. I had a few drips in the clearcoat (went a bit heavy on the second coat). I gave it another coat on top hopeing it would even out a bit but it did not. Does anyone have any advice on how I can get the drips out? I am hoping perhaps 1500 wetsand will get it down but then after that will I have to do another clearcoat layer? Or will it still look ok? When the project is done I will post pics of the process.

 

Use a razor blade. Not the kind that go in a utility knife, but the rectangle kind. Sand the corners some and slightly bend it to create a "crown". Using the crown (ends kinda in the air) gently "skim" the runs off layer by layer till its flush with the rest of the paint. Then wet sand it with some 1500-2000 grit, then do a final buff for a real nice shine. (with a buffer, not by hand).

 

just primed my fairings, i still see scratch marks threw the primer from the fairing.. how can i fix?

 

12 Pack....do not worry about what you see, worry about how it feels. After you sand it you should not be able to feel the scratches, if you do you need more primer. Or if these are really deep maybe you need some kind of body filler.

 

I have my pics so far:
Fairing after purchase....wrong color, do not trust those Ebay fairing retailers. (Fitment is ok, I needed to make some of the holes a bit bigger)

Fairing after some spots primed and sanding (600 grit is what I ended up doing)

Fairing after paint and clearcoat (had to 1000 grit sand some spots after the color due to some oddities in the way the paint dried....turned out really good).



As I said above the clearcoat ran in a couple of spots, I am a bit wary of using a blade to shave off the drips....is this common? Also, after I wetsand (1500 grit is what I have) am I going to have to do another layer of clearcoat or will I be ok? Thanks Guys. When I am done I can put my new decals on the fairing and see what it looks like on the bike!

*whoops these pics ended up being big!

 

Im gonna have to disagree with this. I am a painter by trade, and here is what we do. first to prep the surface, since it is already painted use either a red scotch brite or 600 grit sand paper. scuff until there is zero shine left. once the entire panel is flat you are ready to spray sealer. sealer is a surfacer that will help buld color as well as seal the surface. since the panel is yellow and yellow doesnt cover worth a crap you are probably going to want to take a piece of cardboard and spray it with the fairing so before you clear the fairing you can clear the cardboard and check the color. anyways with yellow basecoat it typically takes about 5-9 coats of base. then you clear over it with minimum 2 coats, and 3-4 if you want to do a lot of buffing or make it look like glass. ( i would reccomend doing the least amount of buffing possible because with all of the curves and edges you are asking to burn through, even if you are expirienced) you get what you pay for, so if you spend 25 bucks on paint it will maybe look god for a year or two then it will look like butt. also when prepping the panel the finer grit you use the less chance of sandscratch showing through. 220 is way to rough, i promise you. and if the panel is already painted and there is no repair, you wont even need sealer, you can just scuff, spray adhesion promoter, base, then clear. as far as temperature goes typically the lowest is 60f and you need to pick the activator to go with the temp or it will run like no other or spray on dry. Hope this helps!!

 

Bob, I worked at Roush Mfg. for three years, preping ABS parts for the Mustang, Focus, F150, and all the SRT vehicles. (the robots did all the painting) When parts came out that weren't good enough to ship, we reworked them. One of the biggest probs we had was runs, and thats how we fixed them. They actually make a tool that holds the blade with a contour specifically for this, but you don't need it. Once you level the paint and wetsand lightly, you need to buff it out (it will reduce your orange peel too) there is no need to respray.

12pack, If you see the scratches now you WILL see them after paint, I know this from experience.(3 years worth). You need to block sand with 400 dry till the scratches are ALMOST gone, then 400wet then the scotchbrite, and reprime. Or you can reprime it with some high build primer filler.

 

So here is the final finished product...the CBR decals I got off of Ebay are a nice touch and look great.

Again....600 grit sand...took off all of the shine, primed the areas that needed it and a bit more sanding until everything was nice smooth and even.

Sprayed 4 coats of colour and then actually did a 1000 grit then 1500 grit quick wet-sand over the entire thing after it had dryed for a couple of hours (had a few imperfections)

Sprayed 3 coats of clear

used a razor blade (as suggested) to knock down a few clearcoat drips and then wetsanded those spots with 1500. Buffed it out after in those spots as well.

Here she is....it turned out really pretty. A bit of work but looks great!