HOW TO: Install Woodcraft Rearsets ( WITH REAR BRAKE LIGHT !! )
 

Word, suckas. Sorry for the phone pics this time, but you know how it is.

I couldn't find any useful info on how to install these, and most people I asked didn't even know it was possible to make the rear brake light work with these rearsets, so I'm here to set y'allz straight. Woodcraft DOES sell brake light kits for their rearsets. ALL Honda bikes use part# 03-0100. Woodcraft will only sell you this part WITH the purchase of a rearset kit, so if you already have the rearsets, you'll have to buy the part form a different website. I got mine for about $20.

This HOW TO assumes: You know how to use a ratchet \ wrench, use shrink tubing when making new electrical connections, and know how to bleed brakes.

Let's start with the shifter side. Pull off the bolts shown, and the whole assembly pretty much slides off. You may want to wait until the assembly is off before removing the lever, but make sure you loosen the screw before it's off the bike:
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0002.jpg

Clean all the gunk out since you're in there:
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0006.jpg

Now, tack that whole lever assembly onto the new rearset:
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0007.jpg

Now, put it all back on in the reverse of how it came off. Get on the bike, and adjust the three circled points until the shifter lever is where you want it. The one all the way on the left that connects to the trans will do major adjustments, and you'll have to slid it all the way off to turn it. Turning the connecting rod will do minor adjustments. you have to loosen both nuts, spin the rod, then tighten the nuts back down when you're done, liek tie rod ends on a car:
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0009.jpg

Now, for the other side. Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) the banjo bolt on top (I forgot to circle it. It's the one that holds the brake line on), Remove the TOP TWO BOLTS holding that assembly to the rearset, THEN the larger bottom ones:
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0008.jpg

Flip the whole assembly upside-down, and remove the smaller spring and the cotter pin (ignore the other two cricles):
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0012.jpg


Unbolt the pedal form the cylinder:
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0015.jpg

Then remove the brake light sensor from the old rearset. This will allow you to completely remove the entire old rearset assembly:
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0016.jpg

Next, pull off the brake line coming from the master cylinder, and totally remove the banjo bolt. THIS WILL DRAIN YOUR BRAKE FLUID, so have a towel or bucket read. CAUTION: BRAKE FLUID WILL REMOVE PAINT!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0017.jpg

Insert the Woodcraft banjo bolt replacement and washers:
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0023.jpg

Then screw it back in:
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0024.jpg

Install the new rearset following the removal steps in reverse (minus the spring). Then, grab the old brake light plug, and open it up. Pull out the two contacts inside:
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0025.jpg

Snip them off, strip the wires, and attach the connectors from the brake light kit. BE SURE TO USE SHRINK WRAP, or the connectors will touch inside the receptacle, and blow your brake light fuse:
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0030.jpg

Insert the new connectors into the receptacle of the brake light banjo bolt, pull the rubber tubing down, and shrink up your shrink tubing:
http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0031.jpg

Zip-tie the extra wiring somewhere safe, FILL YOUR BRAKE FLUID BACK UP, AND BLEED YOUR BRAKES!!!http://www.johnnyx.net/howto/rearsets/CIMG0032.jpg

ANNNND, you're DONE!

I was looking at these today not bad for £9.99 was your one made by Hel Lines?

. . .no, that's the stock OEM Honda brake line.

If I am mainly running my bike on the street, is there really any benefit to adding these?

not really...just preference

It's a comfort thing. Many people find the factory placement of the pegs to be too forward and low. It may seem insignificant, but I found the extra 2" these provide to be a WORLD of difference. Plus, I love the long steel peg. The factory one was just a tad too short, and I hated the rubber on top. The Woodcraft pegs also act as frame sliders cuz they don't fold up like the Honda ones. Saved my bike from landing on the exhaust recently from a tip over.

great write up, thanks