How To: F4i HID Install
#1
How To: F4i HID Install
A short write-up on how I installed my HID bulb set from DDMTunning.com
First I purchased The "Slim Ballast Kit" I picked up the H7, 35watt, 6000k color bulbs, Blinding white with a slight bluish when looking at them directly. The exact page I ordered from can be found here:
http://www.ddmtuning.com/products/101/
$54 Shipped by FedEx and took about a week to arrive
The kit comes with everything you need (See below). No "error eliminator" or "harness" needed.
2 Sets of Bulbs, Ballasts, Igniters, sticky pads, zipties, connectors and grommets.
As simple as it gets.
The ballasts are super thin, about the length of a set of keys and 1/2 the thickness of a deck of cards.
Get some snips, and cut off the plastic protective housing around the bulb. Then you'll have to SLIGHTLY trim the "squared" edges of the bulb holder so it will fit flush in the F4i housing. (this is important or the bulbs will not seat properly)
DO NOT TOUCH THE BULBS
Here's a better view
Slip the wires through the large stock rubber headlight seal as shown.
This is how the wires come right out of the box. You have to pull the black and red terminal wires back out of the grommet, so only the bulb wires will be going through the grommet. I don't know why it came like this, I really didn't think it made any sense..
This is the perfect spot to mount the ballasts right behind and under the tip sensor. Use the double sided sticky pads that come with the kit, and they'll wedge right in there.
Headlight in and waiting for hookup, note the ballast sitting in there.
Stock headlight harness circled in red and pulled through to the nose of the bike. take your RED HID wire and plug in into the BLUE socket. Now plug the BLACK HID wire into the green socket. AND YOUR DONE!! (the lo-beam side atleast). The yellow is the HID ballast, mounted, with the wires facing up
Tested and working great
Both sides in and working. Now just where to hide the igniter boxes?
I went a little crazy with the electrical tape just for the test ride.
This was my solution the finding a place for the smaller igniter boxes. Wrapped in foam (they don't get hot) and under the air duct cover. They don't bounce around and sit nice and snug when the covers are installed.
Stock with "Xeon bulbs"
Huge upgrade!
Absolutely blinding from the front at any angle!
I didn't bother taking any Point-of-View night shots because i didn't have a chance to get any "before shots" to compare it to and also you'll just have to believe me they are 1000x brighter than the stock bulbs. I used to hate getting caught riding after dawn with a tinted visor but now I basically make my own daylight wherever i go at night
First I purchased The "Slim Ballast Kit" I picked up the H7, 35watt, 6000k color bulbs, Blinding white with a slight bluish when looking at them directly. The exact page I ordered from can be found here:
http://www.ddmtuning.com/products/101/
$54 Shipped by FedEx and took about a week to arrive
The kit comes with everything you need (See below). No "error eliminator" or "harness" needed.
2 Sets of Bulbs, Ballasts, Igniters, sticky pads, zipties, connectors and grommets.
As simple as it gets.
The ballasts are super thin, about the length of a set of keys and 1/2 the thickness of a deck of cards.
Get some snips, and cut off the plastic protective housing around the bulb. Then you'll have to SLIGHTLY trim the "squared" edges of the bulb holder so it will fit flush in the F4i housing. (this is important or the bulbs will not seat properly)
DO NOT TOUCH THE BULBS
Here's a better view
Slip the wires through the large stock rubber headlight seal as shown.
This is how the wires come right out of the box. You have to pull the black and red terminal wires back out of the grommet, so only the bulb wires will be going through the grommet. I don't know why it came like this, I really didn't think it made any sense..
This is the perfect spot to mount the ballasts right behind and under the tip sensor. Use the double sided sticky pads that come with the kit, and they'll wedge right in there.
Headlight in and waiting for hookup, note the ballast sitting in there.
Stock headlight harness circled in red and pulled through to the nose of the bike. take your RED HID wire and plug in into the BLUE socket. Now plug the BLACK HID wire into the green socket. AND YOUR DONE!! (the lo-beam side atleast). The yellow is the HID ballast, mounted, with the wires facing up
Tested and working great
Both sides in and working. Now just where to hide the igniter boxes?
I went a little crazy with the electrical tape just for the test ride.
This was my solution the finding a place for the smaller igniter boxes. Wrapped in foam (they don't get hot) and under the air duct cover. They don't bounce around and sit nice and snug when the covers are installed.
Stock with "Xeon bulbs"
Huge upgrade!
Absolutely blinding from the front at any angle!
I didn't bother taking any Point-of-View night shots because i didn't have a chance to get any "before shots" to compare it to and also you'll just have to believe me they are 1000x brighter than the stock bulbs. I used to hate getting caught riding after dawn with a tinted visor but now I basically make my own daylight wherever i go at night
Last edited by Sick97SS; 07-16-2010 at 10:56 AM.
#2
#3
#4
How snug of a fit were the ballasts in the area to placed them? I am strongly considering getting the Apexcone Raptor Kit from ddm but the site does not give any specifications for the size of the ballasts so I'm not sure how much room there would be to mount them. If there was plenty of room for the slims than I would imagine the raptors would fit easily but if the slims were a close fit I might have to fork over the extra $10 :/
#6
I was doing some research on google and so many other car and bike forums have asked about the 35w vs 55w ballasts; the manufactures should just provide more information on the difference. Then I came across this post which happened at our very own forums https://cbrforum.com/forum/600-modifications-41/hid-35w-55w-60483/
From what I gather, the 35w is waaay brighter than the stock bulbs. They say that the 55w is waaay brighter than the 35w. You get the picture. I think the 35w will already annoy other drivers on the road as well as attract attention from the police so I'm going to stay away from the 55w since I don't want even more people flashing their hi's at me and even more police focusing on me.
From what I gather, the 35w is waaay brighter than the stock bulbs. They say that the 55w is waaay brighter than the 35w. You get the picture. I think the 35w will already annoy other drivers on the road as well as attract attention from the police so I'm going to stay away from the 55w since I don't want even more people flashing their hi's at me and even more police focusing on me.
#7
ive had my HID's for at least a year or so now - haven't had one driver give me the finger for them (it's usually for speeding or mooning them)
You will have some hot spots from HID's - meaning the light will be a bit scattered and not directly on the road (the original housing wasnt made for HID setup, so because it's brighter - the light goes farer and usually has a few hot spots)
Seriously, no cop has said anything about the HID's nor the halos - they usually ask "you know you have a headlight out" thing before anything else. So if your doing the mod, stop feeling so guilty - people wont get blinded from it when it comes to a lifted truck or some import.
It does make a big difference with tinted visors tho - it's a must if your riding a night with tint (plus anything with reflector will stand out a mile away like people jogging with running shoes or intersection markers)
stick with 35w - even those get a bit hot in the housing but not to a point of damaging.
for the OP: the only thing i don't like about your setup is how you put your inverters - it's a PERFECT spot where you picked but foam and zip ties *sighs*.. try velcro to headlight housing and keep them in the same position (only thing is if you have too big of an arc on the wire from HID to inverter with velcro - overtime the adhesive with wear off and your inverters will sag a bit)
You will have some hot spots from HID's - meaning the light will be a bit scattered and not directly on the road (the original housing wasnt made for HID setup, so because it's brighter - the light goes farer and usually has a few hot spots)
Seriously, no cop has said anything about the HID's nor the halos - they usually ask "you know you have a headlight out" thing before anything else. So if your doing the mod, stop feeling so guilty - people wont get blinded from it when it comes to a lifted truck or some import.
It does make a big difference with tinted visors tho - it's a must if your riding a night with tint (plus anything with reflector will stand out a mile away like people jogging with running shoes or intersection markers)
stick with 35w - even those get a bit hot in the housing but not to a point of damaging.
for the OP: the only thing i don't like about your setup is how you put your inverters - it's a PERFECT spot where you picked but foam and zip ties *sighs*.. try velcro to headlight housing and keep them in the same position (only thing is if you have too big of an arc on the wire from HID to inverter with velcro - overtime the adhesive with wear off and your inverters will sag a bit)
#9
How snug of a fit were the ballasts in the area to placed them? I am strongly considering getting the Apexcone Raptor Kit from ddm but the site does not give any specifications for the size of the ballasts so I'm not sure how much room there would be to mount them. If there was plenty of room for the slims than I would imagine the raptors would fit easily but if the slims were a close fit I might have to fork over the extra $10 :/
Dimensions:
DDM 35w: 3.375in x 2.375in x0.5in
DDM 55w: 3.875in x 2.75in x0.625in
Raptor V2 35w: 4.0in x 3.875in x1.125in
Raptor V2 55w: 4.0in x 3.875in x1.125in
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