This was taken from a Russian site, translated by yahoo, and im RE-posting it for others, I have yet to do it, but will EDIT and post my own pics as I go.

Source- http://dtsymbal.narod.ru/cbr1000rr/fullpower

First you need to know the differences from the Japan and EURO/American 06-07 CBR 1000RR
From what Im told 04-05 CBR1000RR's have different ECU's so DO NOT try and use the rewiring part of this how to.


Japanese spec 1000RRs are really restricted to 94hp instead of 172hp and
to 190kmh (118mph) because of laws in Japan.

So what's the difference between restricted and full power 1000RR?

Here they are

- restrictive muffler (small exit holes)
- restrictive velocity stacks (small holes)
- restrictions inside air filter elements (small holes)
- restrictions in air duct (rubber walls)
- smaller rear sprocket (40 teeth instead of 41 or 42)
- little lower red line on 06-07 (same as full power 04-05)
- special wire comes to ECU to limit speed
- speedo is LOCKED in KPH and Celsius, as Japan doesn't need MPH

All this stuff are easily removed/replaced. New ECU is NOT required. A new ECU will require new keys to match, and if you get an American ECU, HISS will not work, and the bike WILL NOT start.
I have read that you can use a US ECU, but you will need to have the US wire harness as well, and rewire everything to bypass the HISS. I don't know how to do this, and wouldn't advise that.

What should be done

- replace muffler for any aftermarket slip-on or stock from USA or European
versions
- replace 4 plastic parts in intake
- brake away restrictions in air duct
- cut and iron one wire near ECU
- optionally replace front or rear sprocket and install Speedo Healer
- optionally install Power Commander
- optionally install a EURO spec speedo gauge cluster, so you can use MPH and avoid cops. (can be found on ebay.co.uk) It should be EURO spec because they and Japanese bikes have HISS, and they should be direct plug and play.


The 4 plastic parts are found here;

You need two of these filter parts
http://www.ronayers.com/Search/N/687...-D20/Source/HO

And these velocity stacks (intakes)
http://www.ronayers.com/Search/N/687...-D21/Source/HO
http://www.ronayers.com/Search/N/687...-D21/Source/HO

My order was a little over $40 shipped for these parts.
************************************************** ********************************************

Now for the pics and how to - once again, this was translated from the Russian site, Ill update this as I do it myself.
I wont be posting my exhaust part, because its already been replaced with a full yoshi one.

Everyone knows that the Honda CBR1000RR, which is also known as Fireblade in Europe, does have a power of 172 hp however, in connection with the legislative limitations in Japan this motorcycle is sold with a power of 94 hp.

The idea of the limitation of power, realized on CBR1000RR, is very simple - to prevent fuel-air mixture from going in the engine and preventing exhaust gases from leaving outside.

These are pics of the stock Japan version


These are rubber partitions in the air duct, which begins above the front wheel and comes from below into the box of air filters. Partitions are simply stuck by glue similar to the domestic moment on edges and walls of air duct. They must be broken in with the aid of the screwdriver and tossed in the bin.


These are the plastic parts at the base of the air filters, I have posted the American replacement parts in the link above.

These parts are above the intake, also known as velocity stacks. The American replacement is above as well.

This is stock Japan exhaust... you can barely stick your finger in there, the American stock ones are about the size as that second (middle) ring.


***** Comparing the Japan parts to American parts *****

These are the stacks

And the air filter bottoms



First step:
Unscrew 1 bolt from each side in the forward section of the tank and remove black plastic caps. Remove seat, held down by 2 bolts at the back of the seat.

Now the shell is removed, so you will need to unscrew on one bolt attaching tank to the frame from each side. Then remove the tank back - it pivots the axis and is will be held pointing upward, you don't need to remove any fuel lines.

Put something under the tank to prevent it from falling back down (its easier when emptier, duh) You should now see the air box and the ECU (CDI)

Take out a few screws to find the ECU harness.

Couple more bolts to get to the air filters.

The bottoms of the air filters look like this, see how restrictive they are.


The diffusers are now visible. Its necessary to divide the upper and lower parts of air box. You will need to unscrew 7 screws on the perimeter, with 1 screw in the center. Then for a convince, remove rubber shutter from the hooks on the perimeter of air box.

Then remove a few more screws to get this result


The rubber parts in the VERY first pic are here now, waiting to be ripped out! See how one is completly blocked off, and the other has a TINY hole in order to restrict it more.

The first The second and the last one (view from the FRONT tire facing the REAR (after the flapper mod)
Before After




Then you will need to replace the exhaust with whatever means needed - seek help from the hundreds of other How To's out there.

Here is a rough diagram of the Japan ECU
Here is the diagram of the connection of wires to ECU, there are 3 rows of wires... the top row is the only one shown, as its the only one needed.

Cut the green wire, and splice it into the first black wire





See?? This [is supposed] fix the speed limiter and the lower redline - Ill find out when I get some time to work on the bike, and get the parts in.



Then the Russian guy that wrote this goes on to lift the back tire and chock the bike down and to a wall and goes full throttle to test the ECU and the new parts... here is his result
NO MORE 190KPH limit!


Now you have the option to get a new REAR sprocket from the 40 tooth to the 42 American one, or change the front one one down.

He left his email, but he may not speak English if you have any questions, I will be doing this same thing very soon, and will be available for any questions soon.
dtsymbal@mail.ru is the Russian guys email.
and just PM me with any questions.

Please feel free to add any more material or questions on here so others with the same question will have it answered publicly.


EDIT: I know the cams are the same size - from Euro, American and Japan.
Check the part number on number 3 and 4 (Cam intake and exhaust) and compare them
Euro: http://zsf-motorrad.de/en/Spares/CBR...CAMSHAFT-VALVE
USA: http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_sectio...008&fveh=20254
Jap: http://www.1000rr.net/forums/attachm...1&d=1246335882

 

I removed the rubber pieces and the air filter pieces (just left them off) and did the flapper mod today, as well as spliced the wire to the ECU.


NO MORE 190kph! I went a little past it today on the street just to make sure it worked before I backed off, and it feels like it has some more power (maybe its just in my head, I guess ill see when the stacks come in)

 

Got the parts in finally... Will be replacing them soon... next will be a rear sprocket change.

 

Is this procedure valid for the cbr1000rr 2008?

 

Do you have a Japanese spec version? The U.S. models do not have the 94 hp restriction.

 

Yes my bike is imported from Japan... And it is a restricted version. I was told many different ways to convert it. So currently confused. But what i was wondering if changing the exhaust and adding a power commander would change the speed restriction?

 

Hello everyone !!! I live in japan and I have the CBR1000RR 2007 !!!

I wonder if I need to replace all the parts just to cut the limiter?

Or I can just cut and weld as shown above for the bike pass 190km/h?

Thank You !!!!

 

Can someone pls help me with ecu wires which needs to be cut and ironed on a Jap spec cbr 600 F4i?

 

Here are the pics from from the actual japanese spec F4i