I made a nice little addition on this in the bottom of page one. It IS the most important step so i couldnt figure out why it was skipped.

As for the post above they only really need to be cleaned when your bike is running like shiat. Either studdering, having problems idleing...etc. The main cause of low rpm, or idleing problems is the idle, or pilot jet which is a fairly easy task to complete. Before you go ripping things apart, if your bike runs, try some carb cleaner in the gas tank. I cleaned my jets last season, and this season the low rpm was a little gugrly, after about 50 miles of running with carb cleaner it was good. Just some congestion in the idle jets most likely.

 

Mine was pretty saturated with fuel aslo. Since it's my first time doing this im not sure if it's normal or not, but it does'nt seem like it should be normal.

 

Do you have to re syc your carbs after soing this?

 

it seems everyone is avoiding this sync question...I'M assuming its not a big deal since nobody mentioned it...this write up kinda sucks, in the clymer manual it say's not to turn the carb's upside down as this can cause damage to the vaccum chambers, he diddnt go over what he used to clean it, did you use carb cleaner and paper towels??? how did you clean the excess carb cleaner out of the carb bodies? If carb cleaner will eat the rubber diaphram, then wouldnt you have to take all four carbs apart clean them...get the carb cleaner out of them completely then put it back together? because if you look in the carb's you can see that they are not separate, and share a lot of fluid's. Do you have to pull the choke rail off? of course you do because three of the vaccum chambers wont come off with it on. Lots and lots of unanswered questions.......

 

I'm attempting my first carb cleaningtomorrow. I hope no syncing issue will arise. I would not leave anysolvent residue or foreign agent to absorbed in the bowls, just to be on the safe side. The goal isoptimal carburetor performance.

 

I hope I'm not the ONLY person asking this... but how do I remove the actual carbs? I cant figure out how to get that thing off the rest of the engine. Forgive my VAST stupidity... but I have a second bike so I thought I'd tinker around and see what I can do with the carbs... not a huge rush , which is my goal... but hoping to get some sort of direction for how to remove that whole thing.

 

wow man good job thanks you just saved me like $350.00

 

You have to remove all the parts attached to the carbs first, assuming you can get the tank and airbox off then you need to remove:

Both throttle cables
2 fuel lines(1 hose from the tank but splits into 2 hoses from a tee fitting)
Throttle sensor(right next to throttle cables)
Far left and far right coolant lines, middle one can either stay on or you can take it off, doesn't matter
Choke cable

Now with your fairings off on each side of the frame there's an elongated hole that conveniently lines right up to the band clamps that hold the carbs to the top of the motor. Get a really long screw driver(or if you have small hands a really short stubby one will get all of them, long screwdriver is easier tho), like 16" and stick it through the hole, each screw on the hose clamps should be faced towards that hole. For instance carbs 1 and 2 have the clamp tilted facing the left hole while carbs 3 and 4 have the clamp screws facing the right hole. Turn those bad boys out and the carbs will come right off, just wiggle them around a bit. Don't pull on the choke bracket, it'll bend. Easy. Once you do this once or twice you can pull your bike in a garage, take the carbs off, clean em, put em back on and pull it out for a ride in less than 2 hours I kid you not.

 

This is a bit delayed...

The carbs on the F4 are Constant Velocity carburetors. Which means unlike a Mechanical slide carburetor or fixed Venturi carburetor the CV carburetors sync themselves. Thats the whole point of the diaphragm (Which moves the slide up allowing for more air flow and vise versa) on the CV carbs really. It compensates for any pressure differences in your riding environment. Unless your so high in altitude that the carbs can't "breath" But if you're that high you would be in the same situation.

Hope thats insightful.

 

f3 carbs are CV carbs and they need synchronizing...