ok here goes, (from memory)

You`ll need:

Set of Allen Keys (Hex Keys)
Cross Head Screwdriver
Flat Head Screwdriver
A Socket Set
New Brake Pads
Copper Grease (Not Essential)
20ml plastic Syringe (Not essential)
Some old cloth or kitchen towel incase of spills
Methylated spirit (Not Essential)
Torque wrench (Ideally)



Start by finding a level surface and idealy put your bike on a paddock stand or similar to keep the bike upright, You can do the job without doing this but it makes life a little easier.

Take your cross head screwdriver and undo the 2 screws on your front master cylinder, now remove the lid being careful not to spill any fluid (it marks paint n plastics)Place this to one side until later.

Take a 14mm (i think) socket and wrench and loosen the 2 caliper bolts holding the caliper to the base of the fork legs, before you take them off loosen the pad pins.

Now remove the caliper from the fork leg and take your flat head screwdriver and put it between the old pads, lever the pads back into the caliper in this way until almost flush with the caliper body. (Note because a screwdriver is a precision tool take a little care here so no damage is done) The brake fluid level will rise as your doing this keep an eye on it so it doesn`t over flow! If its getting to close to the top of the reservoir use the 20mm syringe to suck out some excess fluid usually no more than 15mm max. Or use some kitchen towel to soak up some fluid if you don`t have a syringe. Careful to avoid spillages.


Next Undo the pad pins all the way and slide them out, as you do this the pads may drop out so be aware of it. Take the 2 pads out with the shims on the back. Take the shims off the pads noting which way they go on each pad, they are directional. I took this oportunity to clean the caliper pistons of any crap thats built up. This is recomended however not essential.

Take some copper grease if you have it, and smear sparingly ( like hardly any) on the shims where it will touch the pad, this is to eliminate brake squeal you can get away with not doing it. Then put the shims onto the back of your new pads in the correct way for the direction of rotation (See pic)

Place your pads back into the caliper and line them up correctly, now take the pad pins and slide them back in, they go through the pads and over a spring clip which you can push down with your fingers if nessesary. Place the caliper back onto the fork leg and place the bolts back in and tighten and torque them up.

Now repeat process for the other caliper.

When the pads have all been replaced check the fluid level is correct and replace the lid on the reservoir, tightening the 2 cross head screws. Take a cloth an the methylated spirit and clean the surface of the discs. (not essential)

Finally And most importantly pump your brake lever until the pads have moved back into place and the lever feels firm.

Now your ready to go, new pads require a little breaking in remember this.


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good info anubis.......ill try this the weekend coming up and ill let you know hoe it went and oh yeah thanks for responding to my post.......

 

thanks man, i need to change mine and thats a great help. Now i don`t have to pay dealer boy prices. wondered how you do it.

 

Something to add....

If you forget to push the pistons back in the calipers fully and you already put the new pads in (a lot of my friends forget), do NOT use a screwdriver at that point to try to push the pads for the reasons stated above. Take a steel ruler or something strong and flat, put it flat against the pads and you can easily push the pistons back fully into the calipers without doing any damage to the surface of the pads.

 

GREAT POST, AND VERY PRECISE. AS I DID NOT CHECK ON CBRFORUM FIRST, I USED MY HAYNES MANUAL. I HAVE A ? I HAVE THE 2003 954, AND I JUST DID MY FRONT BRAKES. I KNOW I HAVE TO BRAKE THEM IN, BUT DOES THAT INCLUDE THEM RUBBING THE ROTOR RIGHT? EVEN THE HAYNES MANUAL SAYS TO BREAK THEM IN BEFORE USING THEM IN HARD STOPS, BUT THEY SEEM TO BE RUBBING THE ROTOR. NOW, I CAN RIDE, I CAN STILL PUSH IT IN NEUTRAL, BUT IT IS NOT A SMOOTH GLIDE. I'M NOT WORRIED SO MUCH ABOUT WEARING THE PADS WHILE ITS LIKE THIS, BUT WILL THAT OVERHEAT THE ROTOR AND POSSIBLY CAUSE A WORP? THANKS IN ADVANCE

 

This was the best advise needed to complete this task.

Great advise, Extremely Appreciative!

 

Thanks for the write-up (yes, I know it's old...but obviously relevant). I'll be putting this to use shortly.