I was in 3rd gear today doing 8 grand and and pinned it. It went to like 11gs and I only gained like 5mph. I was like whoa thats not good. I think I'm starting to see some early signs of clutch slippage and I started hearing a noise recently that kinda sounds like air blowing, similar to what I've heard on cars when their clutchs go out, when I pin the throttle. My F4 has 17k on it with I think the stock clutch. Should it be time for a new one at this point of life on my bike?

 

Is there an adjustment? 17K is really not that much. I know this is a dumb question, but did you recently do an oil change with 'energy saving oil'? What about clutch lever play or friction zone stuff, do they seem weird?

Maybe more info for the smarter folks on the board to work with would help.

 

No oil changes, I know not to use energy saving, I have a ton of lever free play, it just started doing this recently. Even though its only 17k miles its 8 years old. I have been working it hard lately.

 

Clutch life all comes down to how you ride it, and more so how much you slip it. I've seen how alot of people ride and honestly wouldn't be suprised if they needed new clutches before they hit 10k miles... makes me cringe hearing them take off from a stop. I think to myself.... "what did that clutch ever do to you??[:@]" LOL

But yea if you're not running evergy conserving oil, and there's plenty of freeplay in the lever, then it sounds like it's clutch time. There's no set mileage interval for clutches, just depends on how each individual one is treated. On my bike I've got 113k on the original factory clutch and it's still fine... no slippage at all. My buddies Suzuki Bandit was on it's 3rd clutch by 40k or so (but that bike had other problems too). My Accord I got 321k out of the original factory clutch, and it never started slipping just broke a damper spring on the clutch disc and jammed the clutch. I've known of a woman with a brand new Hyundai that burnt the clutch out in 1000 miles (yea she didn't know how to drive manual... at all). It's all relative

Sounds like you need a clutch tho

 

Its not bad at all. Only really noticed when a fluke thing happened today. I went into second and pinned the throttle and the RPMs went up but I gained like no speed then it kicked in after a second. I was like wtf so I tryed it again in 3rd it was ok till 8grand and it slipped right into 10k with no real accelation gain.

 

What exact parts do I need to buy to replace the clutch? I've been looking at this. I know I need friction plates and clutch plates but how many? Are they the only things I need to replace? Should I get a new clutch spring cause springs get weak over time.

 

When replacing the clutch, a good practice is to replace all the friction plates (#5 = 2 & #6 = 5), all the clutch plates (#7 = 6), and all five of the springs. The total number of friction plates is 7 but the first and last one's are different than the rest. Some people cut corners by only replacing the friction plates... but I highly discourage this practice. Another option is to go with an aftermarket clutch like Barnett.Barnett sells their clutchs as a kit which includes all the friction plates, clutch plates, and springs you'll need at a cheaper price than the combined price ofaHonda clutch.
A little note, when the clutch is excessively slipping, it is creating excessive heat. There are a couple bearings in the clutch baskest assemblywhich you don't want to get damaged from being cooked.
I put in a couple links below, Barnett and a Honda stealership that gives the quantity and price of the parts you'll be needing. On the stealership, you'll have to go through the steps of entering the year and model of your bike.

http://www.barnettclutches.com/produ...;clutch_cc=600

http://216.37.204.206/wos/honda_oem/...A=266&B=11

 

When replacing the clutch, a good practice is to replace all the friction plates (#5 = 2 & #6 = 5), all the clutch plates (#7 = 6), and all five of the springs. The total number of friction plates is 7 but the first and last one's are different than the rest. Some people cut corners by only replacing the friction plates... but I highly discourage this practice. Another option is to go with an aftermarket clutch like Barnett.Barnett sells their clutchs as a kit which includes all the friction plates, clutch plates, and springs you'll need at a cheaper price than the combined price ofaHonda clutch.
A little note, when the clutch is excessively slipping, it is creating excessive heat. There are a couple bearings in the clutch baskest assemblywhich you don't want to get damaged from being cooked.
I put in a couple links below, Barnett and a Honda stealership that gives the quantity and price of the parts you'll be needing. On the stealership, you'll have to go through the steps of entering the year and model of your bike.

http://www.barnettclutches.com/produ...;clutch_cc=600

http://216.37.204.206/wos/honda_oem/...A=266&B=11

 

thirdgen, you would hate hearing me take off from a stop. its like a drag launch everytime. I replace most of the clutch pack every oil change.

with 17k on it replace all of the friction plates and the drive plate(s) that are adjacent to the friction plate that crapped out. replace the springs with barnett heavy duty. use stock plates. they fit better.

 

Wouldn't a slipping clutch mess with the speedo also?