alright.. I have been reading this manual, googling different things, searching this site, and its just not clicking in my brain..

I am trying to figure out if I need to order a new stator or not.

Now, I have two multimeters. a GB digital and a GB analog.

I don't know how to use either other then what I have got from their respectful manuals and google.

Atleast I am honost

Now.. doing a continuity test with the analog - yellow + yellow (in any sequence) there is a continuity. needle pings all the way other side (just like the manual says it should if continuity exist)

doing it with the digital.. I don't know what the heck setting it should be on. From what I can gather it has to be the lowest without going over the value for most accurate reading. well playing around sometimes I just get a - symbol, and other times I get 1.6 (or around there).. (yellow + yellow any order) other times it just comes up as 0000 (most common)

I can rebuild a motor with my eyes shut, but when it comes to this electronic stuff I think i'd rather pay someone to make it their problem.

I searched and it seems everyone keeps talking in all this technical jargon I just do not understand.

There is tons of topics on this.. I know.. But I just cant get a clear answer.
Or maybe I have been staring at this screen for too long and am just over-thinking it

can someone please just put it in simple terms, I just don't want to purchase another stator when the one I have is perfectly fine.

 

sorry - its a 93 900rr.

manual says acceptable range of resistance between yellow + yellow is 0.1-0.3

 

can you take a picture of both meters?

that way we can point you to what setting to put it to.

edit is that 0.1ohms, 0.1kohms etc? ohms is the unit of measure, it looks like a horse shoe.

 

Put it on the ohm setting. Its the horse shoe as stated before. Google "ohm" if that makes no sense and you will see the symbol. With the leads apart, what does it read? Usually they say OL, OPEN, infinity, or something like that. Thats the open circuit reading, which is what you hope to find between the pins and ground.
Touch the leads toghther. It will read 0 or a pretty small number. Thats how much resistance is in you circuit, but means that you have a circuit. You hope to find a circuit between the pins on the stator. If your number is high or open, replace the stator.

 

+1 Charging systems have to be the simplest of systems once you understand how they work. A good digital meter is good, except when testing peak volts. But thats a whole other can of worms. There are 3 yellow leads comeing off of the stator plug. take the meter in the ohm "horse shoe" setting. Label each one of the pins in your head & connect the meter to the pins as follows, 1-2, 1-3, 2-3. You are looking for a low reading, usually around 0.5 to around 2.0 or so ohms. Take the same setting on the meter & put one lead on a good ground & the other lead to the 3 pins of the plug. You want a reading on the meter to be OL, OFL or whatever it says before doing these tests. A test light is also an option when testing for a grounded stator. AC output also needs to be checked. There is a wavy line on the meter or it just says AC. Set the meter to around 100 AC volts. Start the bike & test 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 at the stator plug. give it a bit of throttle when doing the AC test. You want the reading to rise when given throttle. If all tests are good you have an operational stator & the reg/rec or battery are fault in the charging system. Hope this helps.

 

thanks for all the replys, I really appreciate the help. I will be messing with it again here shortly and will take pictures of my setup and results so you can steer me in the right direction if I am doing something wrong.

 

took the stator right off the bike. heres what I am working with..

The one pic shows my reading (ohm) from yellow- yellow

the other pic shows the meters, and my three wires. They are black, and not yellow like the manual says. So I am assuming this is an aftermarket stator.

 

first pic is on the correct setting for measureing the resistance of the stator, turn 1 left to measure the AC voltage.

dont touch the stator wires to anything except the meter while running...

I agree with project96.

if your using the original rectifier, i would reccomend upgrading it to a newer mosfet model with a heatsink. even though it may not be neccesary...yet...

 

So then going by my reading, my stator is fine?

The rectifier does indeed have a heatsink with fins on it. I was questioning its stability and was going to put a gsxr one on. (BIG heatsink in comparison)

I really want to nail down any possible issues before this summer.