Hey,

I am new to this so any help would be greatly appreciated.

so here is the problem: 02 F4i is running rough. I changed oil and spark plugs but it was still running rough..(by running rough I mean.. it was dying when cold unless I gave it throttle.) Now I took it to the dealership and they fixed the idle problem. They changed the plugs i just put in and charged me for that.(Pissed me off). Now they still say it is running rough and they think it is a clogged or faulty fuel injector. They told me to run seafoam and see if that fixes it. Cause they wanna charge 100$ an injector and 176$ each to replace it. Any ideas?

Mark

 

Find a new shop.

Hope you find the cause.

Welcome to the board. I'm sure you'll get some suggestions here shortly.

 

+1 for sea foam, that was good advise. run a concentrated mix for awile then let bike sit for a day or two , and that stuff will work quite well. its worth a try before gettin raped at the stealership...

 

Do a search on the FPR (fuel pressure regulator). This and the CCT (cam chain tensioner) are two of the most common flaws on the F4i. The FPR will make your bike RUN rough, while the CCT will make it SOUND rough.

You can visually check the FPR by disconnecting the vaccum line that feeds it. If you see even the smallest amount of gas come out, the internal seal is bad and most likely your culprit.

I've had this happened to both of my F4is. Some of the symptoms I was experiencing was smoking, bogging, hesistating or down on power in the low rpms, and stalling when letting it idle. One bike had all the symptoms while the other had half.

Good luck and please keep us updated..........

 

Thanks.. I specifically told the dealership to check the FPR cause of the forums I read. They told me they checked it but it was fine. So if it is the Cam chain tensioner what am I looking as far as cost on something like that?

Mark

 

I highly doubt it's your CCT. I was simply implying that it was a common problem on the F4is just like the FPR.

Symptoms of a bad CCT is a metalic ringing noise around 5-6k rpms. A really bad CCT will make noise below or above the range mentioned above. If you don't replace a bad CCT, you run the risk of the chain skipping a tooth on the camshaft which will make your bike run horrible if at all. Skip more than 2 tooths and you'll most likely bend a valve.

Honestly, you can only go by what the dealers tell you. I still think you should do a search on how to replace the FPR to access the vaccum line and check to make sure the FPR isn't bad.

Once the bike warms up, does it hold a steady idle? If so, and at what rpm? Are there any other symptoms you've been experiencing before or after this problem?

 

My bike and car have been running rough lately. I just bought sea foam today and only had time to do the wifes car and good god did it help. Idle is way smoother, better gas mileage already, and heats up quicker. My check engine light also turned off and it was on due to a fuel injector problem (thats what firestone said).

I put it in the crankcase, gas tank, and a vacuum line and let it run for about 15 mins. Then i took it on a hour trip(about 45 miles) and changed the oil. So much **** came out. CAR RUNS WAY BETTER and ill be doin my F2 tomorrow.

+10 on sea foam first.

 

once the it warms up to about 176 it idles fine at 1300 or so RPM's. But when cold it would die if I started it and left it.. Or if I didn't wait for it to warm up and took off it would stall out if I gave it throttle and let off. There was a slight backfire at stop signs also.

 

Ok, since it only does it when it's cold, I would start doing a search on the starter valve, starter valve sycnronization, and fast idle wax. These searches are all associated with cold starts and might be the culprit to your problem.

Though I have never experienced your problem first hand, this is where I would start looking. Hopefully this will guide you in the right direction.

 

TBH, if it's just doing it when it's cold (especially with how cold the weather is right now) I would just let it go. You shouldn't be riding it until it (the bike) warms up anyway, as the oil pump on these bikes is weak and you want the oil to be sufficiently warm for it to pump easily and protect your engine. If it runs fine when warm, what's the problem?