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Recurring Warped Rotor

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Old 03-06-2014, 07:30 PM
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Default Recurring Warped Rotor

I have a 2005 Honda cbr600rr. I bought it from someone who did track days, so the rotors were warped, no surprise. I went on ebay and bought used rotors that were straight and not near the min. thickness. They solved the problem initially. Now a month later I'm getting the same symptoms:
Slight vibration of handles at high speed
Speed dependent pulsing when braking ( most noticeable when barely braking at 15 mph)
When the bikes on the stand, I spin the wheel and it spins faster in the same area.


Is it possible that I got unlucky with the old rotor? I was told warping is hard to do unless it's a track bike? Could it be the (Slide?) pin or bearings?


Also what websites have you guys bought your rotors from?


Thanks ahead of time.
 
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:20 PM
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Forks twisted ?
 
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:44 PM
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I'm not very aware of the symptoms of each, but ( I'm not even sure if this is a real test) I secured a sharp pencil so it was just a hair above the rotor surface, and once spun it made contact In the same spot of the rotor.
 
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Old 03-07-2014, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevin Mahnke
I'm not very aware of the symptoms of each, but ( I'm not even sure if this is a real test) I secured a sharp pencil so it was just a hair above the rotor surface, and once spun it made contact In the same spot of the rotor.
HA! Not a real test?! You nailed it bud! Good job. Basically, you made a really cheap and easy dial indicator. You just can't measure how big the warp is - but you proved that it's warped (so long as that pencil couldn't move back and forth). There is a spec for how much runout is acceptable, however, I don't think you'd be able to measure it without an actual indicator because of how small the spec is. If you were feeling it in the lever - and you did the pencil trick - it's warped.

I buy EVERYTHING off of ebay. Whether it's OEM (you can find good used sets on there), Brand name aftermarket, or ebay (chinese) stuff - I buy it off of there.

Look around on the forums - you can find reviews of the chinese "wavy" rotors, the brand name stuff... And ebay has buyer protection if you buy a used set of OEM ones that aren't good anymore. Just make sure they're within spec (thickness) and make sure the ad says they're straight and I'm sure they'll work just fine.
 
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Old 03-07-2014, 01:53 PM
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I wonder if something in your suspension isn't damaged instead? Could one of the mounting tabs on the wheel for the disc be warped or damaged, leading to warping of the rotors over time?
 
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Old 03-07-2014, 02:23 PM
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Check/Clean your brake calipers around the pistons. It could be that your caliper piston is stuck and it's holding the pad on the rim, causing it to heat up extremely, and warping it.

What about scoring on the rotors? The rotor that is now warped, is there any heavy scoring into the rotor (remember to check both sides).



I'd find it highly unlikely that your rim is damaged. It'd have to be damaged at the hub (VERY unlikely). It could be that you haven't seated to rotor correctly. How did you tighten the rotor down when you put it on?


p.s. - Sorry that I didn't address this in my last post. I guess I somehow missed/forgot that this was the second set of rotors to recently do this to you.
 

Last edited by Conrice; 03-07-2014 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:26 PM
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Alright it's the day before I head off to Georgia and the store messed up my order so I wont have new rotors for the mountains. Can I still ride if it's slight warping? also When I did the pencil tests (without the brake calipers on) and both rotors lose contact with the pencil in the exact same place. I feel like it's unlikely to have even warping.. is something else wrong?
 
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:49 PM
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Sounds like a caliper sticking and causing alot of heat as your riding around. Heat=warping.
 
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Old 03-14-2014, 09:16 AM
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Warping today's rotors is not an easy thing to do. Either the calliper seals are damaged causing the brake to drag and warp the rotor or as you say it's been roasted on a track. Just before you replace the rotors again try this. Get a small threaded bolt just big enough to fit through the metal bobbins located between the rotor and the brake hub assembly, normally 7ish. Put the bolt through the hole and place a washer the same diameter as the bobbin and a nut. Basically the bobbin should have free play between the rotor and the hub assembly but over time dirt seizes the rotor up and causes vibration. Use brake cleaner as you turn the nut but not any kind of oil. Look on you tube. Their is a vid showing how it's done. Hopefully this saves you a few quid… keep her lit !!!
 
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Old 03-14-2014, 10:44 AM
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Sounds likes your brakes are binding.
 
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