Recommended clear coats that are HARD as nails?
#1
Recommended clear coats that are HARD as nails?
I'm looking for recommendations on clear coats I can use on my tank & fairings that are HARD AS NAILS.
I've used a home depot clearcoat from rustoleum and it simply did not hold to my standards.
I ran my fingernail across it(lightly!!) a few days after painting(3 coats) it & clear coating (3 coats) and it dented the coat & bugs me every time I see it.
Also, how do I make it shine and "pop" out?
I've used a home depot clearcoat from rustoleum and it simply did not hold to my standards.
I ran my fingernail across it(lightly!!) a few days after painting(3 coats) it & clear coating (3 coats) and it dented the coat & bugs me every time I see it.
Also, how do I make it shine and "pop" out?
#2
#4
Afraid part of the problem is your materials. The paints and clears availible at places like Home Depot / Pep Boys is very cheap. Which will require a lot more effort to make it work well. For the clear at least you'll prolly want to buy from someone that sells actual automotive paint. Just make sure you make them aware of the type of base coat you used so you don't mix types.
As for ahine, it's a matter of wet sanding and effort.
As for ahine, it's a matter of wet sanding and effort.
#5
Nothing in a can is going to get 'hard as nails'.
Your best bet if your not equipt with the equiptment to spray commercial paints would be to go to a local auto body supply and MOST of them can mix you up some clear and supply you with a compressed air charged sprayer. It's like a little piggy bag bottle with air in one and material in the other. You can also order theses sometimes online.
Best stuff I've ever seen in a can came from Colorite. Bit pricey tho.
Your best bet if your not equipt with the equiptment to spray commercial paints would be to go to a local auto body supply and MOST of them can mix you up some clear and supply you with a compressed air charged sprayer. It's like a little piggy bag bottle with air in one and material in the other. You can also order theses sometimes online.
Best stuff I've ever seen in a can came from Colorite. Bit pricey tho.
Last edited by zaqwert6; 05-20-2012 at 09:30 PM.
#6
#9
as others have already said, spray can clear will not get hard.
You will want to go to an autoparts store that supplies automotive paints and get some 2 part urathane clear.The urathane will go over a lot of different types of paint and not react to it. You can actually spray the urathane over certain spray paints and have it look decent and hold up well.
Also as others have said, wet sanding and buffing will get the clear to shine. Start with 800 grit to knock down the orange peel, then move to 1500 grit, then to 2000 grit. The smoother you get it with sanding, the easier time you will have buffing. I use a wool pad for heavy cut compound and a light foam pad for the light cut compounds.
One thing to consider though. If your just trying to do the cheapest paint job possible. You can use spray paint like duplicolor and wet sand that. As long as your using a solid color, meaning non metallic or pearl, you can wet sand it. Use the same principal and wet sand it with 800 grit and work up to 2000. Then buff it out with a good heavy cut rubbing compound. Finish with a micro finish compound and the results may suprise you. It won't be as hard as actual automotive paint, but it will be harder than the crappy clear coat in a can. Take a sample piece and give it a shot.
You will want to go to an autoparts store that supplies automotive paints and get some 2 part urathane clear.The urathane will go over a lot of different types of paint and not react to it. You can actually spray the urathane over certain spray paints and have it look decent and hold up well.
Also as others have said, wet sanding and buffing will get the clear to shine. Start with 800 grit to knock down the orange peel, then move to 1500 grit, then to 2000 grit. The smoother you get it with sanding, the easier time you will have buffing. I use a wool pad for heavy cut compound and a light foam pad for the light cut compounds.
One thing to consider though. If your just trying to do the cheapest paint job possible. You can use spray paint like duplicolor and wet sand that. As long as your using a solid color, meaning non metallic or pearl, you can wet sand it. Use the same principal and wet sand it with 800 grit and work up to 2000. Then buff it out with a good heavy cut rubbing compound. Finish with a micro finish compound and the results may suprise you. It won't be as hard as actual automotive paint, but it will be harder than the crappy clear coat in a can. Take a sample piece and give it a shot.