Rattlecan Paint on my Bike (Project#1)
#1
12-26-2006, 03:41 PM
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Rattlecan Paint on my Bike (Project#1)
So here's my plan.. I have stripped down my farings on my Honda CBR600, and have sanded, (just completed) final priming.. and now I am planning on using a rattlecan paint too spray a fresh coat of paint on her. My tips.. and things I have both read and learned..
Prep your metal/plastic by scuffing everything you are painting with a red 3M Scotchbrite pad. Get rid of ALL the shine. Or you can remove all the paint with a DA sander and 80-120 grit paper. Depends on your time limits and quality you are going for. If there are dents, you need to scuff these areas with 80 grit paper and then apply your body filler. Let the stuff dry and then sand with 120, finish with 400. Go with 1516 even coats of grey primer. Add extra primer over your areas with filler. Finish with a light dusting of black trim paint over your primer as a guide coat. Wait 24 hours, then wet sand with 500 grit. Your low spots will stay black. Build up these areas with filler and reprime them. I would suggest using a sealer as a holdout against absorbing, but that's your choice depending on how much you want to spend. Your basecoat will be 3 layers. Start your base coat with a dry coat to promote adhesion, then do a wet coat. Wait until it's tacky, then do a final coat. They key is to try and be as 'robotic' when you are painting as possible. Try to do a 50% overlap to prevent 'banding'. Wait for that to dry, then break out your clear. Give it a dusting coat, then 2 wet coats allowing dry time in between. Wait 24 hours, then wet sand with 500 grit. USE A SOFT BLOCK to prevent burning through your clear. This will give you a more uniform sanding. Clean off your parts and then apply 2 more coats of clear with drying time in between. Wait 24 hours. If you want a really clean finish, you need to lightly resand everything with 1500, then 2000. Afterwards, you can apply your buffing compound and buff everything to a high luster. Finish with a hand rubbing glaze.
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Things to remember..
#1 - 80% of painting a bike is prep & 20% is paint.
#2 - Use thin and light coats of paint..Theres nothing worse than having to resand the work that took you days too complete.
#3 - Take your time and alow the right amount of time too cure, *at least8 hours until you respray and 2 - 3 days too cure*
Most of all.. enjoy and take pride in your project! Hit me a message if you have any questions. Thanks!
Prep your metal/plastic by scuffing everything you are painting with a red 3M Scotchbrite pad. Get rid of ALL the shine. Or you can remove all the paint with a DA sander and 80-120 grit paper. Depends on your time limits and quality you are going for. If there are dents, you need to scuff these areas with 80 grit paper and then apply your body filler. Let the stuff dry and then sand with 120, finish with 400. Go with 1516 even coats of grey primer. Add extra primer over your areas with filler. Finish with a light dusting of black trim paint over your primer as a guide coat. Wait 24 hours, then wet sand with 500 grit. Your low spots will stay black. Build up these areas with filler and reprime them. I would suggest using a sealer as a holdout against absorbing, but that's your choice depending on how much you want to spend. Your basecoat will be 3 layers. Start your base coat with a dry coat to promote adhesion, then do a wet coat. Wait until it's tacky, then do a final coat. They key is to try and be as 'robotic' when you are painting as possible. Try to do a 50% overlap to prevent 'banding'. Wait for that to dry, then break out your clear. Give it a dusting coat, then 2 wet coats allowing dry time in between. Wait 24 hours, then wet sand with 500 grit. USE A SOFT BLOCK to prevent burning through your clear. This will give you a more uniform sanding. Clean off your parts and then apply 2 more coats of clear with drying time in between. Wait 24 hours. If you want a really clean finish, you need to lightly resand everything with 1500, then 2000. Afterwards, you can apply your buffing compound and buff everything to a high luster. Finish with a hand rubbing glaze.
[/color]
Things to remember..
#1 - 80% of painting a bike is prep & 20% is paint.
#2 - Use thin and light coats of paint..Theres nothing worse than having to resand the work that took you days too complete.
#3 - Take your time and alow the right amount of time too cure, *at least8 hours until you respray and 2 - 3 days too cure*
Most of all.. enjoy and take pride in your project! Hit me a message if you have any questions. Thanks!
#2
12-26-2006, 04:34 PM
RE: Rattlecan Paint on my Bike (Project#1)
I disagree with a bit.
For a rattle-can job - you're waiting far too long for drying/cure time. You don't use 180 on anything other than the tank. Use 320 for the most coarse sections of the plastic.
You want to do more than just hit plastic with ScotchBrite if you want the paint job to hang around for a while (other than wait time).
Other than that, I think your tips are good.
For a rattle-can job - you're waiting far too long for drying/cure time. You don't use 180 on anything other than the tank. Use 320 for the most coarse sections of the plastic.
You want to do more than just hit plastic with ScotchBrite if you want the paint job to hang around for a while (other than wait time).
Other than that, I think your tips are good.
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12-26-2006, 05:01 PM
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#4
12-28-2006, 06:12 PM
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RE: Rattlecan Paint on my Bike (Project#1)
well im on my final coat of paint and guys let me tell ya.. it's looking awsome... il post some pics with my next message... I highly recommend doing this paint project if any of your bikes need a quick cheap paint job.. it's only cost me about $45.... Im amazed...
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12-31-2006, 01:10 AM
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12-31-2006, 01:11 AM
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12-31-2006, 01:12 AM
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12-31-2006, 01:13 AM
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#9
11-07-2008, 07:15 PM
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RE: Rattlecan Paint on my Bike (Project#1)
I'm also a newbie with this and trying to do my own paint job over the summer. I still have factory graphics on my bike. Any tips on how I go about getting those off? Then after that do I need to sand away all the old paint or just the clear coat? Also not quite sure on the differences I need to note between the tank and the plastics (grit numbers are a big help). I think I have a good idea of what I need to do from there, but any pointers will be greatly appreciated. I'll throw up some progress pics when I get started. Thanks a ton!
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11-07-2008, 07:50 PM
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RE: Rattlecan Paint on my Bike (Project#1)
I would personally have started around 400 and end around 800-1000 grit. I did my old 95 f3 and stopped at 800. After I painted, did 3 light coats and 1 medium coat and used a heat gun to help the paint cure before the next coat. Only waited a max of a couple minutes, followed the can pretty close. After the paint is fully cured, I waited a week, I highly recommend using an eletric polisher and use a hard cut wax, then fine, then a sealer. takes any overspray off and gives it a NIIIIIIICE glossy feel.