Power Commander V w/Auto-Tune
 

That is just the start not the answer.

you can run stock maps with AFR@13ish and let autotuned do its thing.
but why..
its like running Irridium plugs with stock wires.
I should also say.
just slapping on a PowerCommander-V with Autotune is just the start of it.
There should be a 'Masters Class' on engine mapping..
You can simply say set the AFR @13 and let autotune do its thing.. but when setting it up you need to slowly go up throttle range % at a time for a stable map.
I Suggest.. There are MANY 'This is Awful' maps on YouTube out there.
but you set mixture then ign then mix again..
using a Dyno with a person who knows how to map is best.
But you can take the long way and learn mapping.
I suggest watching videos about bad maps, everyone likes to point out what another did wrong, and they good ones say why its wrong.
remember you can save tons of maps on your phone to load as you please. then run Auto-tune off that map for minor tweeks only. as it may be 10degC warmer or 20% more humid than when made the map.
best to make general maps for conditions.
...Commuter -good gas milage, just ladeda down the road, no performance needed.
.. have fun map.. some performance, but mostly smooth throttle response and still good milage.
… moderate map.. great midrange, mild lowrange, mild upper range.
.. aggressive map.. the road racer.. top performance but still stabile throttle response..
… the GTF Outta here map.. total performance with peak response for every throttle position at every rpm, if you snap the throttle it feels like the bike runs on red bull and amphetamines, real twitchy ride but you can run 20-200-20mph in 10seconds, lock your knees or get tossed off. (but what a rush thinking of it going 110 low around a turn pavement RIGHT THERE.. and all that's holding you on the bike is a thigh muscle.. or doing 80 drop and pop 3rd and upupup it goes giving you a great view of the clouds above as you run up to 5th before the front wheel goes back down, or stays up as you wish, but a 150mph wheelie, any windage and it gets scary.. (I suggest unicycles remain below 115mph, click 4th then ease on down)

Then you start making sub-condition maps that include weather, elevation, and road conditions. under my arbitrary 5 map categories and general maps, I have 3-8 subcats for each with 3-5 maps in each. even have a group of maps(6th cat) only for Dyno-challenges maybe 10% higher than using a rideable map..

… for me I always have the GTFOH map loaded and rotate the other maps as needed.
but if your just bolting on a power commander and not taking the time to properly set up maps, then applying auto-tune, you pretty much wasted money.

I say this is using the PC-V and getting value, others say not until you map each cylinder, I say OCD much.. unless a V-twin or a closed track, then I agree.
Bolting on a high-flow air, min restrictive slip-on, and applying PC auto-tune to factory generic mappings is so very minimal, why spend the money on the PC-V as the factory box is not that bad it must be replaced, it works just fine for 90% of the time.. so save your money for tires..

I post this only because many think bolting on that Dynojet PC-V and setting auto-tune to some arbitrary AFR, and they're done, and worse, when sometimes performance goes unchanged or even down they blame the bike.. When really all they did was the 1st step, and now comes the pain in the ass part.. setting maps.. slowly and methodically, hopefully using a dyno.. or at least an exhaust sniffer for HCs and CO2.. rather than only the O2 sensor readings(but better than nothing).. (helps to use a throttle-lock/almost locked.. when setting for each throttle position from closed-100% open, as really need to hold each position a cpl sec for good avg readings and not intermittent spikes.. slow and methodical..

Just Saying.. Aftermarket isn't always better, and rarely is if not optimized..