OIL--need help decideing
#21
I use 10w40 in my car here in Maine throughout the winter, and have no problems with it. I don't know why people are running anything thinner than that in motorcycles which generally get used in the warmer months and warmer climates...
I would suggest the use of something like AMSOIL 20W-50, you could also use 10W40. My car calls for using 5w30 in colder climates such as mine, however I let my car warm up before I go driving it around, and I've never had any problems with it. The car has been running a bit better ever since I switched. It's also a Subaru which had the usual oil leak, but the 10W-40 has stopped the leak.
I'm going to be putting 20W-50 in my bike over the winter to get it ready for next season, as long as you just let it sit there for a minute or two before taking off on it you should be fine, and I do that anyways since it's carb'd.
Just my $0.02
I would suggest the use of something like AMSOIL 20W-50, you could also use 10W40. My car calls for using 5w30 in colder climates such as mine, however I let my car warm up before I go driving it around, and I've never had any problems with it. The car has been running a bit better ever since I switched. It's also a Subaru which had the usual oil leak, but the 10W-40 has stopped the leak.
I'm going to be putting 20W-50 in my bike over the winter to get it ready for next season, as long as you just let it sit there for a minute or two before taking off on it you should be fine, and I do that anyways since it's carb'd.
Just my $0.02
#22
I use 10w40 in my car here in Maine throughout the winter, and have no problems with it. I don't know why people are running anything thinner than that in motorcycles which generally get used in the warmer months and warmer climates...
I would suggest the use of something like AMSOIL 20W-50, you could also use 10W40. My car calls for using 5w30 in colder climates such as mine, however I let my car warm up before I go driving it around, and I've never had any problems with it. The car has been running a bit better ever since I switched. It's also a Subaru which had the usual oil leak, but the 10W-40 has stopped the leak.
I'm going to be putting 20W-50 in my bike over the winter to get it ready for next season, as long as you just let it sit there for a minute or two before taking off on it you should be fine, and I do that anyways since it's carb'd.
Just my $0.02
I would suggest the use of something like AMSOIL 20W-50, you could also use 10W40. My car calls for using 5w30 in colder climates such as mine, however I let my car warm up before I go driving it around, and I've never had any problems with it. The car has been running a bit better ever since I switched. It's also a Subaru which had the usual oil leak, but the 10W-40 has stopped the leak.
I'm going to be putting 20W-50 in my bike over the winter to get it ready for next season, as long as you just let it sit there for a minute or two before taking off on it you should be fine, and I do that anyways since it's carb'd.
Just my $0.02
#23
The "cold" weather weight of the oil is there to allow the oil to flow BEFORE your vehicle warms up. By the time your engine is warmed up it doesn't matter and the damage has already been done.
Beyond that, just use the weight recommended by the manufacturer based on conditions of use. They built, torture test and have to warranty the bike and know better than anyone what it should be using.
Its not rocket science.
Beyond that, just use the weight recommended by the manufacturer based on conditions of use. They built, torture test and have to warranty the bike and know better than anyone what it should be using.
Its not rocket science.
#24
The "cold" weather weight of the oil is there to allow the oil to flow BEFORE your vehicle warms up. By the time your engine is warmed up it doesn't matter and the damage has already been done.
Beyond that, just use the weight recommended by the manufacturer based on conditions of use. They built, torture test and have to warranty the bike and know better than anyone what it should be using.
Its not rocket science.
Beyond that, just use the weight recommended by the manufacturer based on conditions of use. They built, torture test and have to warranty the bike and know better than anyone what it should be using.
Its not rocket science.
Last edited by rayall01; 12-09-2011 at 03:05 PM.
#25
Why does everyone seem to ignore the manufacturer's recommendations regarding oil? If it says use 10W40 then use it! It is designed to cover a certain temperature range and as long as the temperature where you live is in the range then it should be what you use. Too much analysis goes into oil usage instead of taking manufacurers at their word. 0W-30 is far too thin for a high performance machine. At high temperatures that the cbr 600 will get to won't have the protection from a 30 weight viscosity in my opinion.
#26
We all believe want to believe I tend to believe those who designed built and tested the application and in the case of our sportbikes, race in a wide range of classe, providing full technical and mechanical support under the most demanding conditions right up until full mechanical failure. Not to mention have to provide warranty and dealer/distributor support therefore putting them in the most financial risk in both practice and in buyer confidence.
But hey, if its on the net, it must be right......right?
FWIW, I've raced AMA, WERA and others over my 30+ motorcyle and auto career and have my own "testing" to fall back on.
Again its not rocket science and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out.
But hey, if its on the net, it must be right......right?
FWIW, I've raced AMA, WERA and others over my 30+ motorcyle and auto career and have my own "testing" to fall back on.
Again its not rocket science and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out.
#27
BTW, I would love to hear about the time you have spent in Japan personally observing the various manufacturers engine R&D and long term testing. Sounds fascinating.
I'm also curious as to what manufacturers are stating in print that they "would like us to believe"
Please don't say its more stuff you just Googled.
I'm also curious as to what manufacturers are stating in print that they "would like us to believe"
Please don't say its more stuff you just Googled.
Last edited by zaqwert6; 12-09-2011 at 11:26 AM.
#28
Why does everyone seem to ignore the manufacturer's recommendations regarding oil? If it says use 10W40 then use it! It is designed to cover a certain temperature range and as long as the temperature where you live is in the range then it should be what you use. Too much analysis goes into oil usage instead of taking manufacurers at their word. 0W-30 is far too thin for a high performance machine. At high temperatures that the cbr 600 will get to won't have the protection from a 30 weight viscosity in my opinion.
read the info i linked to. if you were right, my supra would have exploded by now, don't you think. are you saying that a 600 cc bike is higher performance than my 3 liter turbocharged Supra, pushing 14 psi? granted, it revs higher, but that is mainly due to reduced component weight in the engine's moving parts, and in general, does not increase engine internal pressures significantly. read the study, please. oh. and one other point: the oils advance every year, and the manufacturers recommendations are outdated very fast.
Last edited by rayall01; 12-09-2011 at 11:58 AM.
#29
BTW, I would love to hear about the time you have spent in Japan personally observing the various manufacturers engine R&D and long term testing. Sounds fascinating.
I'm also curious as to what manufacturers are stating in print that they "would like us to believe"
Please don't say its more stuff you just Googled.
I'm also curious as to what manufacturers are stating in print that they "would like us to believe"
Please don't say its more stuff you just Googled.
#30
We all believe want to believe I tend to believe those who designed built and tested the application and in the case of our sportbikes, race in a wide range of classe, providing full technical and mechanical support under the most demanding conditions right up until full mechanical failure. Not to mention have to provide warranty and dealer/distributor support therefore putting them in the most financial risk in both practice and in buyer confidence.
But hey, if its on the net, it must be right......right?
FWIW, I've raced AMA, WERA and others over my 30+ motorcyle and auto career and have my own "testing" to fall back on.
Again its not rocket science and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out.
But hey, if its on the net, it must be right......right?
FWIW, I've raced AMA, WERA and others over my 30+ motorcyle and auto career and have my own "testing" to fall back on.
Again its not rocket science and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out.