Thank you for the help!

I tried that the first day but when I tried it the battery on my bike was completely dead. Hooking it to the car battery actually didn't seem to help the battery at all. Maybe I didn't leave it on there long enough before I tried to start it or something, but it didn't even give the bike enough juice to crank the engine at full speed. I will try it again tommorrow with a full charge on the bike batt and see what happens.

 

Alright so I fully charged the battery, hooked it to the car battery with the car off and got a reading of 12.95v before cranking and 11v while cranking which I would think would be plenty to start the bike but no go. Still can't get a good reading from Cam Pulse sensor either. I'm not sure if the CPS going out would cause ignition problem or fuel problem though. I can't find what exactly the role of this sensor is the book is very vague on this. I'm really leaning toward another fried ECU which will make the second one. Would a faulty Voltage Regulator cause my ECUs to keep going up in smoke??

 

yea if you have a bad regulator or rectifier you could fry some wires in the ecu or harness my buddy had that same problem on his gsxr tho new rectifier and main harness and everything was ok.

 

I want to keep updating this thread until I get this bike fixed so maybe it will help someone else later on. I haven't spent much time working on it but I did check most of the wires in the ignition system for shorts and haven't found anyting.

1st question: Does anyone know for sure if I can actually check the peak voltage at the coil without the peak voltage adapter? When I checked for the peak voltage at the coils, which was suppose to be 100v at the time of the spark, I only got battery voltage (12v) with ignition on and then 10.5v while cranking. I got this reading by just sticking the multimeter probes in each side of the coil connector and cranking. Is this an acurate test or does the spark occur too fast for me to see it on my meter????

2nd question: Can I test the voltage regulator without being able to crank the bike. I don't want to replace the ECU (I think thats the problem) and then burn another one up. I tested the stator resistance and check for continuity to ground on all the stator wires and the stator checked out good.

 

No, you can't test for Peak voltage with a standard meter, or one without a peak voltage adapter. The meter doesn't react fast enough to capture that peak voltage because it doens't stay at that voltage for any length of time. The meter is displying an average of the voltage that it's reading. A short term spike to a higher voltage isn't going to be reflected in the readings.

I'm assuming that this was a visual inspection by pulling the spark plugs, grounding them and cranking the engine right ? Based on the things you've done, it is looking more and more like the ECU. A bad Regulator/Rectifier isn't going to prevent a spark or prevent the bike from running if your battery is good. To determine if the R/R is functioning, the bike has to be running.

 

Bummer about your bike not starting. Couple of thoughts. Does your tech manual give specs on the coils resistance? that should give a good indication of their health.
Another thing that has been true,but particularly on the new bikes. When you jump from a car,dont use regular car jumper cables! they will allow full car battery amperage to your bikes electronics and I dont think they will like it.
Suggest (and has worked for me) getting a household extension cord for the connection.Strip the ends and connect. Dont hold them when you press the starter on the bike.the resistance of the smaller wires will keep full amps from the car to your bike but still give the voltage you need to start the bike. You'll see the wires jump when you start it.

 

i did this on my 98 600f3 and it sure didnt like it.
i think she was pissed at me for doing that. bike didnt start. charged the battery and started right up.

the point is: bikes dont like car batteries.

 

Alright I was checking all the ground wires on the ecu for resistance to ground and I came across something I don't understand. Would someone with more electrical knowledge than myself and a copy of the wiring diagram tell what this means and if its normal:

On my bike there is a green wire with a white stripe leading into one of the ECU connectors. My Clymer manual wiring diagram shows this wire coming out of the ECU, then splitting off into 2 wires, one goes to one side of the sidestand switch, the other going to one side of the clutch switch.

Ok, when I test this wire it has continuity to ground but also has a resistance to ground of like 1890. When I move the kick stand up and down there is no change in resistance. When I pull the clutch lever in and out there is no change in resistance to ground. I also disconnected the clutch switch entirely and there was no change. Does this mean anything??

Oh and also: When I put one probe on the wire and then touch the other probe to the negative battery terminal I get a -12.5V but when I put the probe on the positive batt terminal I get no reading at all.

 

The wire is apparently a 12V signal wire. When you measure it to the battery ground it shows -12.5v. If you were to switch the meter leads and measure at the same points again it would show +12.5V. It shows no voltage when you checked it against the positive battery terminal because the signal wire is also +12V.

 

Thanks!

Ok so this is a 12v signal wire coming out of the ecu. When I check for continuity to ground the meter reads 1859 which is also the resistance I get when switching the meter to the omega symbol. This is a problem right? Possibly what is causing my ECUs to burn up????? Or no??