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No spark on 1991 CBR-1000F

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  #1  
Old 09-26-2010 | 11:55 AM
connecticutken's Avatar
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Question No spark on 1991 CBR-1000F

I just purchased a 1991 CBR-1000F which has been sitting for 3 years. found a bad rectifier so far. checked positive 12 volts to the coils-seems good. Is it possible the rectifier would prevent the bike from starting? If this is not the case, what's the best way to troubleshoot the no-spark condition? I'm purchasing the new rectifier but before I install it, is there anything that could have taken this component out, that I should look at before whatever it is or could be, blows the new rectifier? Basically, I have no spark and a bad rectifier. Any help troubleshooting this will be greatly appreciated!

connecticutken
 
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Old 09-26-2010 | 02:08 PM
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The bike initially starts off the battery right? Maybe your battery is bad. Also, is kill switch in the start position? Does the engine turn over when you try to start it? Are you sure it's getting fuel?
 

Last edited by Ryanfz; 09-26-2010 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 09-26-2010 | 02:39 PM
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Hello Ryanfz,

When I bought the bike the guy had installed a new battery so it cranked over fine. I thought I would drain the old gas and it might start. I checked for spark and there was none. I looked at some of the electrical parts on the bike and found the rectifier top be melted. I had the kill switch in the "run" postion. Fuel is being delivered to the carbs as well. I am getting anothe rectifier off ebay and I was wondering if the alternator can pop the rectifier or not. If I just replace the rectifier can it pop again? Anyway, there was 12 volts on the hot side of the coils and I did not know where to go from there.

Ken
 
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Old 09-26-2010 | 03:06 PM
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https://cbrforum.com/forum/general-tech-9/motorcycle-eats-batteries-116692/

I had a bad rectifier as well (link to my post^^^). I was told that a bad stator can cause a rectifier to go bad. But I also read that honda oem rectifiers on the f2/f3 are known for overheating and should be replaced with an aftermarket recitifier when necessary. I noticed that oem f2/f3 rectifiers don't have cooling fins, so I am assuming this is a big reason why they would overheat. Not sure if this applies to the 1000f.

There is a wiring harness test in my clymer manual. It says to measure the voltage across the two "main" pins on the rectifier plug and it should have voltage equal to what the battery is putting out. On my f2 "+" went to the red/white wire and "-" went to the green wire.
 

Last edited by Ryanfz; 09-26-2010 at 03:08 PM.
  #5  
Old 09-26-2010 | 07:07 PM
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Ken a weak battery will push a weak Hurricane R/R over the edge , kind of a vicious circle.

The regulator goes bad and then cooks the battery and sometimes can knock out a stator
field coil or two as it keeps trying and overcharges the already cooked battery hence
the aforementioned vicious circle.

The 1000F's need a 100% good battery with a 100% good R/R charging properly to
get the bike starting right. Also these bikes are notoriously hard starters requiring
full choke even in warm weather and take even more cranking in cooler weather !
 
  #6  
Old 09-27-2010 | 03:41 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions....will look at the stator and I need to find out why there is no spark...is it the spark generator makes the signal then th computer does some work on it then it makes its way to the coils?

I hope to find someone who knows...

Ken
 
  #7  
Old 09-27-2010 | 04:07 PM
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Hi Ken, I have a question for you. How do you test if there is spark or not? Do you test at the end of the spark plug wires? Is there a certain tool to use? Or can you see the spark if its dark? I have never done this, so would like to know. Thanks.
 
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