It happens when I have the stand down idling, causing it to want to run rough and die, so I can see where the neutral safety switch could be acting up wanting to shut the bike off. If I move the shifter around in neutral, sometimes the neutral light will come back on just before it gets to second gear. It doesn't affect the way it runs, (except that you can't put the stand down or start it without pulling the clutch in) but the neutral light sometimes stays out when its on and the stand is up. I absolutely hate electrical problems. I believe what I will do for sure is buy a new oem neutral safety switch and the sub harness that connects to it (its a 3 wire conector that goes to the oil light, temp gauge, and safety switch) And I'm not sure when the last time the oil was changed, but I will be changing it as soon as the oil filter comes in.

 

Oh and the bike usually idles at around 1200 rpms

 

I would change your oil first. It may just be really dirty and causing the N saftey switch to give false readings. I would change it first and see if your issue goes away.

 

Your idle should be a bit higher. Try between 1.5 and 2
Not saying that it will help. Just my 2¢

 

Oh ok, I had read somewhere that it should be around 1200 +/- 100rpms, but I will try it out. I took it out for a spin today (17.3 miles actually lol) and I noticed it lacks power. It has new plugs so I'm thinking that the carbs just need cleaned out really good. It just kinda stumbles on acceleration when its cold, then once you get it going it stumbles on the top end. I was happy to take it down the road tho, the new tires (Dunlop Qualifier) handle like a dream! The front brakes are a bit choppy, I may need to bleed them again, and/or look into getting a different set of rotors because there is pulsation under braking. All the progress I've made on it I owe to you guys!

 

Also I do believe that your onto something with the changing oil thing because I noticed when its warming up, the neutral light usually stays on, as soon as I go to take it anywhere tho, it starts flickering and then goes out

 

Your idle is correct where its at, I wouldnt run it at 2 grand, that is far too high. Im sure you would get a very clunky shift into first gear at that rpm.

Also, I would be a little cautious about riding the bike while its cold. It should really be warmed up fully before you hop on and go. the main reason is to make sure the oil is getting the entire engine. I've read a few studies that suggest motorcycle engines need to be at least 140 degs for the oil to be able to reach the entire top end while riding. Not only that, you run the risk of fouling the plugs if the engine isnt fully warmed up.

I would change the oil. If that doesnt fix it, pull the saftey switch out and clean the end of it with some mild detergent and put it back in. That will more than likely cure the issue. If it doesnt, then look into replacing the switch.

as for the stumbling. What was the temp outside? If it was cold, it might just be too cold for your bikes carb set up. I wouldnt do too much to it until you ride it on a warm day. the stumbling is a sign of it running lean, which in cold weather, the air is more dense and creates a lean condition in an otherwise good setup.

 

I let it warm up for about 7 minutes before I did ride yesterday, I'm not sure how warm the bike ws tho because the temp gauge currently isn't working. The air temp yestrday was around 55 or 60 with a light rain. If I just start it up in the garage, let it go where it can run without the choke, and flip the throtle, it spits and sputters till it works its way pat 5 or 6k rpms. Once it was warmed up and ready to go, it went all the way to 5 or 6k perfectly, but when I got out on the road (after a about 10 miles of normal driving since the tires were new and the roads were a little wet) I opened it up. It would pick up speed but seemed like it lacked power. I believe my bro's 600f2 could've beat it lol

 

Oh and right now it has a tank full of Super unleaded, and I cleaned out the tank before I put it back on

 

sounds like your doing everything right. 7 minutes is plenty long enough for it to reach riding temp, and 55-60 should be warm enough no matter what your carb settings are. Its only around 30 here, so I thought if thats how cold it was there, it could the reason.

But there is definately something wrong somewhere. The 900RR is a beast, especially on the low end. Sounds like your on the right track with your next step to clean the carbs.