steel i won't recommend anything if i never tested..

 

What you've posted up so far indicates that you're not sure where the leak is actually coming from. It's understandable since you really can't see everywhere on the carburetors, especially when they're installed on the bike. The bowl gaskets are made like an O ring. If they're clean and not damaged, then they're probably working fine and not leaking.

Here is something you can do to check to see if the bowl gaskets have any chance of working properly without having to put and ATV on them. First, Turn the carburetors upside down. Put the bowl in place without the gasket and notice how it sits. You'll see that the bowl sits in direct contact with the body of the carburetors, there is no gap between them. Now, take the bowl off, put the old gasket on and set the bowl back on, making sure that the gasket is sitting in the groove of the bowl. Now look at the way the bowl sits on the carburetor. If the bowl is sitting off the body of the carburetors, because it's sitting on the gasket, then the gaskets are most likely going to do their job.

Something you have to remember is that the Bowl are not pressurized. The gas just sits in there. If the float valve is stuck open, then the gas is going to come out the vents, not get pushed past the bowl gaskets.

So, lets think about someplace that is pressurized. The fuel line that feeds the carburetors, and the connections to them. So long as the carburetors sat untouched for years, everything was fine. Then you took them apart and and started moving things around. Namely, you moved the fuel inlet T's back and forth. That area is under pressure, albiet only 2 or 3 psi, it's still pressure. Not only that, you've been subjecting them to different solvents, which hardens them. This is more likely the cause of your leaks.

Here is an example of how they look. You can see the pits in them and this is why they leak.

This is the T joint between the carburetors that supplies the fuel.


This is how they look close-up. Notice the pits in the outside edges. This outside edge is where the seal has to be made.


This package contains the fuel line T and the air vent T O rings. The package for your bike is (you'd need 2 of these) 16040-MAL-600, item #7


Here, you can see how they sit in between the carburetor bodies.


And, don't forget to clean the insides of the openings where they go. That needs to be cleaned and smooth as well.


Good luck and I hope you find your leak.

 

 

raiden ,, with all due respect,, I wasn't referring to you ,, I was posting to mrmekon .
I always believe in installing the proper parts and not cutting corners in the way of "repairing" with the parts that are required in making sure it stays repaired . Especially the fuel system . Call me old fashioned with had been A.S.E . certified and had been employed by both ford and Dodge / Chrysler dealerships for many years . If I had so-called fixed / repaired someones car or truck ,,or in this instance ,,motorcycle ,, and if it later was found that I used ATV sealant or any other glue or shade tree jerry rig ,,instead of doing it right ,,with the proper parts / materials .. I would not only get fired ,,but have the guilt of knowing I may had gotten someone hurt or killed . Not to mention..sued. Granted , your way may have worked for you , as in some ,,test,, as you say ,,that's cool ,,but please understand ,this way may not work for someone else . But you know what,? ,,to each his / her own in the value of a true "repair" using the proper materials the way it was designed. If someone wants to run around acting like ghost rider ....or use liquid nail ,, super glue .. or grandma's home-made baking flour & water glue .... I made no mention of your link or post . As I said ,, it was just my opinion . And you have a right to yours. Its all good Bro.
IDoDirt,,, Fantastic post Bro !!
Now that's hows its done!!
mrmekon , great to hear you got her up and running , and that it worked out for you. Ride safe Bro.

 

it's better to use a gasket kit but here in canada dealership, they charges me $45 each for lower bowl gasket so i ended up making a liquid gasket.

 

Its all good raiden . If there is an alternative or better way in the land of mechanics,, I'm all for it . But where the line divide is ,, if you buy anything that is ,,,well let's say the difference in a moped ,, to an exotic super-bike ,, the cost of upkeep and repair is all the difference in affordability . I agree that the ridiculous prices for parts is going beyond the means of being able to do proper repairs ,, especially the dealerships charging crazy prices for the same thing that is way cheaper buying the part online ,,in most cases ,,the same exact part , and you doing the repair yourself , or hoping a repair shop will do it for you with the part you provide , in most cases ,,repair shops don't want the liability of installing a part they have not over-charged you for.
In the end it comes down to this ,, if you buy a chinese made bike,,its cheaper to repair because it is made cheap ,(and don't last long at all) as where a Honda is quality at its finest,,and you will be spending a bit more money in repairs because ,, its made with quality and the best materials available , lasting a very long time . I'm sure you'll agree .
I understand about not being able to afford things like that,, I've got 4 kids , and being a single parent,, believe me , I know about that thing.
But if its 50 bucks a pop per carb for a gasket,, I'll spend it,,its a honda and well worth it . And being done right , means both piece of mind , and knowledge of knowing ,, it will last ,,a very long time. Or if the day comes that I no longer can afford it,, I'll sell it .. and buy something less an expense ,, like a moped,,NOT! LOL!! raiden ,,You sound like a really cool guy , and this wasn't meant as any disrespect to you at all ,, I'm not like that . You do what works for you bro , hell ,, I love mods & after-market upgrades that work better , and cost less ,,I just believe , use what is made/designed for the application. But that's just me .