Visual fuse checking is ok, but voltage checking them is foolproof. Since you are missing voltage, tracing the path of power is crucial. Each fuse has 2 places on top to check the voltage, one on each side of the link inside. A blown fuse will have power on one side, but not on the other.

Battery has good standing voltage, but what does it read when you turn on the key?

 

ok, I've got to go rent/buy a voltage meter and check the fuses after work. I only know where two of the fuses are though, the ones by the battery. I know there should be more behind the display, but where else??

 

Save some $$$

Jump it from a car battery and make sure the car IS NOT running when you do it.

If it still won't start - it ain't the battery

& if it does start - the battery might be toast if it won't hold a charge (amps) with a
regular bike battery charger

 

i was just gonna say what sprock just said, jump it froma car battery, jumper cables to positive and negative terminals...

Same thing just happened to me a few weeks back, nothing turned on but battery was good... Or so thought it was good. battery Still read 12 volts and was good and had power but 2 of the cells were dead and nothing started. Bought a new battery and it started right up. If at least one or 2 of the cells hold charge, it will still read as the battery was good at 12 volts or more but nothing would work, fuel pump wouldnt prime and lights would just go out

 

exact same thing happened to mine NYnick. I bought a new battery and it fired right up. It wasn't holding a charge, my mistake was reading it with a voltage meter within 15 minutes of taking it off my trickle charger. After checking all the fuses and wasting lots of time, all it was was the battery!! Now the only problem with this new battery is that it doesn't sit as well as my stock one on the terminal, is there any problem with using electrical tape to hold it down better???