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Just purchased 01 929, Few questions

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Old 06-02-2023, 09:37 AM
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Default Just purchased 01 929, Few questions

Hello all, I just purchased a 2001 929. It is my first sports bike. I have always stuck to cruisers.
It is in decent shape but someone before me was going to use it for street fighting so they cut off turn signals. I will be in search of a harness so I can get that working. I also want to rekey everything for the security aspect and because the locks are worn out and stick. The key already has a twist to it and I am NOT going to deal with breaking a key off.

My first few questions here are the lock cylinders for the ignition coded? I am seeing options for key kits on ebay and other websites for $40-200 and others upwords of $400 that are "coded" so I ask can I go with a kit like listed below and be fine or will I have to tune or set the vin or code the new lock cylinder to the bike? I come from a heavy equipment and on road truck background so I know basic electrical and other skills. Just havent looked at bikes a lot.
https://amotopart.com/products/ignit...cbr1000-vfr800

The next would be a wiring schematic where I could find a reliable one at. I plan on just gettin an intergrated brake/turn/tail for the rear and putting the proper turn signals up front. So its better than the current nothing

The last thing is a code. The guy I purchased it from says the F1 light is on for fuel injection becuase the ECM doesnt like the amount of air flow due to the slip on exhaust. The exhaust was put on becuase it "sounded better" and was never tuned. From the background I have I know that messing with exhaust will throw off 02 sensors on the automotive and heavy equipment side becuase they will pick up that the emissions system isnt doing its job. Now I read you can jump a wire under the seat for diagnostic mode but I also read with the bike running and the kickstand down this works (I am not sure if this is true, or if the light just flashes to tell me the kickstand is down) but doing this the red light on dash flashes twice which from what I am seeing is a MAP sensor. So if that is correct I will look into a Map sensor issue becuase I do not believe that should be exhaust related.

I am going to be searching for an owners manual just because.

Thanks for any help, tips, or tricks!

 
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Old 06-02-2023, 09:53 AM
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If you remove catalytic converter on cars, yes it would cause O2-sensors to throw code because it thinks catalytic is dead. Not aware of any bikes that uses dual O2-sensors to monitor catalytic efficiency.

Changing muffler won't affect ECU or tune in any way. Would have to change entire exhaust system from header onwards to affect flow.

MAP sensor vacuum hose is most likely disconnected. Or is cracked & leaking. Most common cause of error-code 2

You can get key-code off ignition-switch and send into this place to get brand-new key made that'll work in all locks: https://cyclekeysonline.com Code is on switch on surface that faces frame with locking-pin. Might be able to turn steering to left and look from right side, but I usually remove top fork-clamp to read it. 6-digit number and last 3 is key-code.

 

Last edited by dannoxyz; 06-02-2023 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 06-02-2023, 11:06 AM
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Thanks! I am going to look into the MAP issue tonight. Thats kind of the answer I expected. Now are you aware if all these bikes came with the RFD chip in the keys? Or if certain ones did and others didnt. That just dictates what I need to do for the ignition module
 
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Old 06-02-2023, 01:12 PM
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RFID is only used on EU HISS system.

US bikes have diode in ignition-switch. No aftermarket switch comes with diode, so you have to install yourself. ALL guides on internet has you installing diode backwards and bike won't start. Have yet to see guide that's correct.
 
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Old 06-06-2023, 10:39 AM
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I got the tank lifted up and immediately found the sensing line for the MAP sensor was simply out of place. Installed it and all is good!
 
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Old 06-06-2023, 11:13 AM
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Good job!!!

Easy enough to repair harness and put stock lighting connectors back on. Then you can install matching connectors onto any light for simple plug-n-play install. Most important part is being able to unplug aftermarket lights and plug in factory lights for troubleshooting.

Your bike uses messy 2-way connectors with 1-way bullet connector for ground. Simpler to convert to single 3-way connector like CBR600RR. Much simpler and easier to deal with.

Repair procedure outlined here:
https://www.600rr.net/threads/diy-co...arness.587929/
 

Last edited by dannoxyz; 06-06-2023 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 06-06-2023, 01:23 PM
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Thanks! I actually came across a rear fearing with lights in it last night. I plugged them and and all I got from them was marker. my buddy said they are turns also but turn function didnt work. So I am unsure if its because I dont have any fronts plugged in or if they cut another wire along the line somewhere.... My dash indicator doesn't even light up either way. I found a few workable schematic screenshots I am going to attempt to use to get it figured out. I havent found a full manual or schematic yet.
 
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Old 06-06-2023, 04:26 PM
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All winkers have separate blue and orange connectors not related to tail/brake lights in any way. So you should have 3 separate wire-bundles/connectors for that tail section. Post photos of wires & connectors you have.

Rears do not have marker circuit, so your marker and blinker circuits up front got crossed up.

Try this diagram. I've fixed numerous errors and removed unnecessary bends and turns. Resized to fit on one sheet of paper. I prefer to print out each time, then trace pertinent circuits I'm working on with coloured markers. Tracing teaches me how circuit works and makes it easier to follow on bike itself.

 

Last edited by dannoxyz; 06-06-2023 at 05:51 PM.
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