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Help! (ASAP) Battery? Rectifier? Stator? Starter? Alternator?

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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 03:57 PM
  #11  
gotcbr's Avatar
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Yuasa batteries are excellent. I use them in all my bikes. While there are some other good batteries out there, from experience - I know I can depend on Yuasa for reliable consistent performance.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 11:43 PM
  #12  
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A battery running out while under a continious load can damage the cells inside and it may not work properly..

from what you explained it seems like your battery is exactly what the problem is as you get the same symptoms in a car with a bad battery.. hard to start, strugles @ idle because of the damaged cells inside fail to charge properly off the alternator & low power that causes the same flickering of lights at lower rpms , seems to charge fine on a battery charger...

I'd take your battery up to your nearest autozone and have them run a quick 1 min test on it for cracked cells.. although they deff won't have one in stock because it's an car parts store they will test it for you and you should have an idea of whats going on..
 
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 03:05 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Susa
Ok, day 2. Had it charge overnight, woke up to a green light. So, it's charging properly. Cranked up first time, no problems, rode it to work, no problems. At work now, on break, went out, cranked up just fine. Actually, it turned over a lot quicker than normal. So, I don't know. I'll keep updating, if anything changes. If not, and it stays just fine, then.... I'll let you guys know how my diagnostic goes.

Here's to hoping it's just a battery.

Thanks a ton for the quick and pinpoint answers guys... I'm glad i joined this forum
Susa, Don't want to rain of your parade. When my reg 1st went south, my battery was 8 YO (original) so just assumed that this was the prob. New battery, ran like a champ for a day or 2.
Then back to ******!!??, so don't put yourself in a position for a while, like riding the back roads, just in case. If you have a bike where the lights are on permanently, taking the light fuse out may get you home.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 09:47 AM
  #14  
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good tip. where is the light fuse,btw? Is it the huge 30A one?
 
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 05:38 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by hikeetech
good tip. where is the light fuse,btw? Is it the huge 30A one?

No, its in the fuse box. Don't know where they are located on the 1000's, but on the F3, its located in the right side of the fairing. Don't remove the main 30 amp.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 06:53 PM
  #16  
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You guys predicted it, and you were right. Acting up again. But instead of explaining it, i made a quick video when i got home today.

Sorry for sounding like a retard and a noob.

update: After letting it charge for maybe an hour, it's starting up and idling just fine... I know most of you said r/r. Still think that's it?

YouTube
 

Last edited by Susa; Jul 14, 2011 at 07:07 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 11:31 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Susa
You guys predicted it, and you were right. Acting up again. But instead of explaining it, i made a quick video when i got home today.

Sorry for sounding like a retard and a noob.

update: After letting it charge for maybe an hour, it's starting up and idling just fine... I know most of you said r/r. Still think that's it?
Ya poor bugger, We know how you feel, its so bloody frustrating when you think you found the fix. I'd bet money on the reg being the culprit. See they usually break down gradually, so you get an initial charge happening, seems like all fine a dandy, especially if you replace or charge up the battery. Will get to the stage where only bump starting will get it running & like I said before, will run like a pig even then.
Regardless of reg or alt, you need to get it checked (or if handy with a volt meter, check it out). Me, I charged the battery & took it my favourite bike shop & said "Fix the b*stard".
This bike shop incidentally keeps a stack of heavy duty regs for Honda's because its such a common problem.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 09:01 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by pacemaker
No, its in the fuse box. Don't know where they are located on the 1000's, but on the F3, its located in the right side of the fairing. Don't remove the main 30 amp.
Thanks, I wasnt sure about the fuse, 30mA sounds a lot for the headlamp.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 10:56 AM
  #19  
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You have definitely got a duff battery there, or the charging system is not re-charging your battery when the motor is running. If you can manage to start it again (use a set of leads from another good battery to yours to get you going) put a multimeter across the battery terminals, rev it over and see if the voltage increases to around 14.7v-15.5v at 5000rpm. If it doesn't then you have a problem with either the regulator (rectifier), alternator or your battery is shorting out internally somewhere. Get the battery for your bike/model preferably a Yuasa. It's got to be one of those things for sure from the sound of the enging trying to turn over in your video. I had a time that the battery wouldn't turn my engine over after travelling 5 miles into town with my headlight on. It turned out that my battery just needed an overnight charge and it has been ok since. I hope you sort it cos I know how frustrating it must be for you.



Originally Posted by Susa
You guys predicted it, and you were right. Acting up again. But instead of explaining it, i made a quick video when i got home today.

Sorry for sounding like a retard and a noob.

update: After letting it charge for maybe an hour, it's starting up and idling just fine... I know most of you said r/r. Still think that's it?

YouTube
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 07:21 PM
  #20  
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Hey guys, figured I'd update this. So, after like 3 weeks of just charging my bike every night, wondering what to do, I decided it was time to call Honda. Gave them a rang, explained my problem, and he had mentioned that 04/05 cbr 1000 had a certain electical problem, in which, i had read about online, but my bike wasn't listed in the VIN's posted that I saw. ALSO Honda's "My Link" or whatever it is (gives you exact information on your vehicle, etc..) Said there was no active recalls on my bike. But, he did a search in their system, found my VIN, and told me, I had a 6 or 7 year extended warranty on the bike. AND my problem would be all taken care of. So stoked, not only am i getting my stator, rectifier, flywheel, and something else i believe, replaced.... It's all for free.. Dropped it of last Saturday, here's to hoping it's ready this Saturday
 
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