Ok, so. Where to begin...Let's try from the very first hiccup. And try to get as much detail as i can (apologies for long post again)

About 3-4 weeks ago, i took my bike to a friends house to show it off, it got hot sitting in the parking lot (220F ish) so, i turned the bike off but, let the fan stay on, for about 10 min to "cool it down" Big mistake, battery died. Jumped, got it back home been fine up until today.

Today, everything was fine, left work, all good. With the rain that came today i guess there was an accident at the bridge where i normally take my exit, so traffic was real backed up, about 2 miles. I basically idled/walked the bike those 2 miles over 2 bridges ~.~... about 3/4th the way through all of that, i happened to look down and noticed my gauges and lights with flickering, and engine sounding like it was struggling badly.. getting anxious i started revving, noticing it was eliminating the flicker. Finally got out of the gridlock, and the drive was fine. But every time i'd pull the clutch in to stop, it would flicker.... It seemed like anything lower than 2k RPM's, it would act up.

So, made it to the wife's work, to stop cause i was worried. Bike wouldn't start back up. Got a jump, started up, no flickering, drove home, no flickering, just fine. Made it home, pulled in, shut bike off, attempted to restart, no go. Won't start again.


Now, there's my problem, now let me list some things that might help you guys in solution finding.

Normally, I'd shift around 4k RPMs and let it not really get much higher than that no matter where i was going, but the past week or so, i decided to take it to about 5-5.5k RPM and try and use that as a baseline for shifting/rev rate. Testing out to see what works best and yada yada, experimenting, if you will.

Also, Saturday, i took it out for my first "long" ride. And by long i mean, 1.5-2 hour drive. Made it back no problem, although for a good few miles i did get up into the triple digits, and stayed there, on the interstate.

The terminals on the battery are as tight as they can be. I bought the bike used, so as far as i know, it's the stock battery

Now, I've noticed that my bike, doesn't start up as quick as my friends(954), or my dads (vtx1300). I've been meaning to make a video of me starting my bike at different intervals and asking you guys if my starter might be bad, but it never really concerned me, cause it always started. It just turned over a few more times compared to others.

I started googling my problem as soon as i could, and saw some other posts where people saying it's the Rectifier, and some others saying it's the Stator. I also found out that Honda did a recall on 04-05 CBR1000 stators.(mines an 05) But mine wasn't listed in the series of VIN's

Help??? Normally i'd be patient and try work things out as best i could, but just so happens that our primary car is acting up as well, (electrical issues too, not starting) So my wife is using our backup car to use for her work, and all i have left is my bike.. so, I'm kinda S.O.L. in 2/3 vehicles....

Here is some pictures of the battery, and the cubby where the battery was. The previous owner got a fender eliminator and rewired with new blinkers front and back. So this is the wiring and batter. The terminals on teh battery seem fine.

 

Buddy had the same problem.. Ended up putting a new Stator in and has had no problems since... The Shop he took it too stated that the Windings had Burnt out... Apparently the windings dont like to be under load under 4000RPM...

I dont want to jump the gun and say that it is the stator (as you would be paying 200-300$ for a new one..) But from past experience thats what i can "blame" it on.

 

if your worried about your whole charging system thing this works great to diagnose it: https://cbrforum.com/forum/general-t...-system-51691/. (granted you can use a volt meter). If that all proves to be positive go get your battery tested. Could just be dead. I had the same issues: wouldnt start right up, go for a ride then die, flickering lights. Ended up being a dead battery. Might try there first as most auto places check the battery for free and then you dont spend money on a stator right away

 

I'd definately diagnose the stator. They had a problem with overheating, and your gridlock situation may not have helped it. There are several write ups on how to test the stator on this forum and every bike is basically the same. But 220 is not that hot. Plus, since you said your seeing the flickering, it can be a sign of a weak stator. But also a sign of a weak battery.

Having said that. I would also inspect the battery. You didn't have any issues until it went dead and you jumped it. You could just have a shorted cell in the battery. I would almost lean towards the battery since most weak stators will show signs of weakness as the rpms increase. The demand on the charging system is much higher as the rpms go up, and thats usually when it shows up, not in the lower rpms like you are experiencing.

If you don't have a multi-meter, go buy one or borrow one. Walmart has decent digital ones for under 30 bucks that will work for what you need to test.

I also have an 05 1000RR with the original battery in it. I plan on changing it because it is begining to crank over a bit slower than normal. But these bikes crank over way....way.....way slower than other bikes. Its just how they are.

Also, now that I see your battery. I'd opt for a yuasa battery. I've used those cheap batteries like you have before, but if it was going in my everyday bike, I'd get the better battery. I'd also cross ref. that battery number. It doesn't match what should be in your bike. Your bike should carry a ytz10s designation. Regarless of manufacturer, they usually keep the digits the same. You may not even have the right battery. Not a huge deal, but you want the correct cca and amps.

 

Ok, well. It's now midnight here, ran up to walmart to look for batteries. And of course, they're battery guide, has 04-07 CBR1000rr unknown battery... so, couldn't find a battery. Not sure i want one from there anyways....But i got a trickle charger, got it charging now. I'll have to wait and see, and wait until normal operating hours. Which sucks cause i work m-f 9-6.

On a side note, i took out my fuse box and uncovered it and came across this:



Now i know enough corrosion can cause serious problems, but this isn't bad enough to cause my said problems, is it?

 

You really need to have the thing checked out properly, with the right equipment, its going to be easier to locate what the problem is. Rather than spending money on one thing & it still happening. The regulators on Honda's (Not just the CBR's, but VTR & VFR's) are rubbish & yet their still putting the same dodgy units in their new bikes.
The symptoms for a dicky reg can be hard to pin down, as it can occur on an irregular basis, overheating of the reg causes them to fail. But once the bike is say left for a few hours, they cool down & perform normally. Keep that in mind when you have the thing checked out, if the bike has been sitting when you get it tested, it may give an ok reading. Initially have a look at the reg & see if there are any tell tale melting around the connectors.
A faulty reg will also put strain on the whole electrical system & the wiring in the stator can take a beating (& vice versa), it can also cause problems with extra wiring that's been introduced to the wiring harness (especially those that have been wound in, rather soldered in) which can a cause a short.
When my reg went, after I jumped started it ran fine, eventually though (even with a new battery) it would not idle at lights, ran like a pig, refused to rev past 3500-4000RPM & started back firing.

 

Wouldn't help. Clean em up & hit with some electro lube & see. Wouldn't think so though, not from what you described.

 

Ok, day 2. Had it charge overnight, woke up to a green light. So, it's charging properly. Cranked up first time, no problems, rode it to work, no problems. At work now, on break, went out, cranked up just fine. Actually, it turned over a lot quicker than normal. So, I don't know. I'll keep updating, if anything changes. If not, and it stays just fine, then.... I'll let you guys know how my diagnostic goes.

Here's to hoping it's just a battery.

Thanks a ton for the quick and pinpoint answers guys... I'm glad i joined this forum

 

You don't.

 

Ha. I've been looking at Yuasa. Just need to wait til payay again.