Fuel stabilizer
#11
RE: Fuel stabilizer
ORIGINAL: sixhundredrr
Makes sense. How did your batteries fair in those weather conditions?
ORIGINAL: knightslugger
condensation build up inside the crank case from the cold to hot to cold. bad bad bad. the gas wont destablize in 0*C temperatures, stablizing is for worry warts who watched the staybil commercial and had a gasp-gazum. I cannot tell you how my engines i've stored over a 6 month winter here in wisconsin. i've never had fuel go bad on me, never.
ORIGINAL: sixhundredrr
Why? Consumes the gas in the tank and requires you to go to the local station to aquire replacement gasoline. I see that it does not place load on the engine, but how does it hurt?
ORIGINAL: knightslugger
I'm not really sure if this is on topic or not, but for winter storage, this is a bad idea.
ORIGINAL: sixhundredrr
Start your bike every once in a while and don't worry about it.
Start your bike every once in a while and don't worry about it.
Makes sense. How did your batteries fair in those weather conditions?
#12
RE: Fuel stabilizer
ORIGINAL: sixhundredrr
Idling is different than what I do. I am anywhere between 1.5k and 5.8k rpm and I am continually changing. to temps of 180-195. Now, the whole condensation thing would apply to any cooler summer night you come home... correct?
ORIGINAL: bergs
I'm with knightslugger on all matters posted here.
An engine does not fully warm up in the winter if it's just idling. Summer time is different.
I'm with knightslugger on all matters posted here.
An engine does not fully warm up in the winter if it's just idling. Summer time is different.
Idling is different than what I do. I am anywhere between 1.5k and 5.8k rpm and I am continually changing. to temps of 180-195. Now, the whole condensation thing would apply to any cooler summer night you come home... correct?
#13
RE: Fuel stabilizer
ORIGINAL: knightslugger
No, the oil does not warm very well durring winter months. after an actual ride your oil is hot enough to boil water. even if you idle at 5800 RPM, the oil will never get hot enough to boil water. the engine has to work in order to heat the oil to a temperature suitable to proper crankcase environment.
ORIGINAL: sixhundredrr
Idling is different than what I do. I am anywhere between 1.5k and 5.8k rpm and I am continually changing. to temps of 180-195. Now, the whole condensation thing would apply to any cooler summer night you come home... correct?
ORIGINAL: bergs
I'm with knightslugger on all matters posted here.
An engine does not fully warm up in the winter if it's just idling. Summer time is different.
I'm with knightslugger on all matters posted here.
An engine does not fully warm up in the winter if it's just idling. Summer time is different.
Idling is different than what I do. I am anywhere between 1.5k and 5.8k rpm and I am continually changing. to temps of 180-195. Now, the whole condensation thing would apply to any cooler summer night you come home... correct?
#14
RE: Fuel stabilizer
ORIGINAL: sixhundredrr
So, since the engine oil is not hot enough to boil water, would it not generate the steam/condensation as you mentioned earlier? If it is hot enough to boil water, whether winter or summer, wouldn't the air in the crankcase (that generated said condensation earlier) be there just the same? I appreciate the insight on the subject and apologize for the thread jack.
ORIGINAL: knightslugger
No, the oil does not warm very well durring winter months. after an actual ride your oil is hot enough to boil water. even if you idle at 5800 RPM, the oil will never get hot enough to boil water. the engine has to work in order to heat the oil to a temperature suitable to proper crankcase environment.
ORIGINAL: sixhundredrr
Idling is different than what I do. I am anywhere between 1.5k and 5.8k rpm and I am continually changing. to temps of 180-195. Now, the whole condensation thing would apply to any cooler summer night you come home... correct?
ORIGINAL: bergs
I'm with knightslugger on all matters posted here.
An engine does not fully warm up in the winter if it's just idling. Summer time is different.
I'm with knightslugger on all matters posted here.
An engine does not fully warm up in the winter if it's just idling. Summer time is different.
Idling is different than what I do. I am anywhere between 1.5k and 5.8k rpm and I am continually changing. to temps of 180-195. Now, the whole condensation thing would apply to any cooler summer night you come home... correct?
same thing happens in a crank case.
#15
RE: Fuel stabilizer
ORIGINAL: knightslugger
chill a glass once. lightly heat it with a bic lighter. what do you see? water droplets. now put it back in the freezer. what happens? frozen water droplets. heat it back up, what happens? More water droplets, sometimes they fall. put it back in the freezer. repeat and you'll see how much water can accumulate.
same thing happens in a crank case.
ORIGINAL: sixhundredrr
So, since the engine oil is not hot enough to boil water, would it not generate the steam/condensation as you mentioned earlier? If it is hot enough to boil water, whether winter or summer, wouldn't the air in the crankcase (that generated said condensation earlier) be there just the same? I appreciate the insight on the subject and apologize for the thread jack.
ORIGINAL: knightslugger
No, the oil does not warm very well durring winter months. after an actual ride your oil is hot enough to boil water. even if you idle at 5800 RPM, the oil will never get hot enough to boil water. the engine has to work in order to heat the oil to a temperature suitable to proper crankcase environment.
ORIGINAL: sixhundredrr
Idling is different than what I do. I am anywhere between 1.5k and 5.8k rpm and I am continually changing. to temps of 180-195. Now, the whole condensation thing would apply to any cooler summer night you come home... correct?
ORIGINAL: bergs
I'm with knightslugger on all matters posted here.
An engine does not fully warm up in the winter if it's just idling. Summer time is different.
I'm with knightslugger on all matters posted here.
An engine does not fully warm up in the winter if it's just idling. Summer time is different.
Idling is different than what I do. I am anywhere between 1.5k and 5.8k rpm and I am continually changing. to temps of 180-195. Now, the whole condensation thing would apply to any cooler summer night you come home... correct?
same thing happens in a crank case.
I see your point. Do you do anything with your battery? Disconnect or otherwise?
#16
RE: Fuel stabilizer
ORIGINAL: sixhundredrr
I see your point. Do you do anything with your battery? Disconnect or otherwise?
ORIGINAL: knightslugger
chill a glass once. lightly heat it with a bic lighter. what do you see? water droplets. now put it back in the freezer. what happens? frozen water droplets. heat it back up, what happens? More water droplets, sometimes they fall. put it back in the freezer. repeat and you'll see how much water can accumulate.
same thing happens in a crank case.
ORIGINAL: sixhundredrr
So, since the engine oil is not hot enough to boil water, would it not generate the steam/condensation as you mentioned earlier? If it is hot enough to boil water, whether winter or summer, wouldn't the air in the crankcase (that generated said condensation earlier) be there just the same? I appreciate the insight on the subject and apologize for the thread jack.
ORIGINAL: knightslugger
No, the oil does not warm very well durring winter months. after an actual ride your oil is hot enough to boil water. even if you idle at 5800 RPM, the oil will never get hot enough to boil water. the engine has to work in order to heat the oil to a temperature suitable to proper crankcase environment.
ORIGINAL: sixhundredrr
Idling is different than what I do. I am anywhere between 1.5k and 5.8k rpm and I am continually changing. to temps of 180-195. Now, the whole condensation thing would apply to any cooler summer night you come home... correct?
ORIGINAL: bergs
I'm with knightslugger on all matters posted here.
An engine does not fully warm up in the winter if it's just idling. Summer time is different.
I'm with knightslugger on all matters posted here.
An engine does not fully warm up in the winter if it's just idling. Summer time is different.
Idling is different than what I do. I am anywhere between 1.5k and 5.8k rpm and I am continually changing. to temps of 180-195. Now, the whole condensation thing would apply to any cooler summer night you come home... correct?
same thing happens in a crank case.
I see your point. Do you do anything with your battery? Disconnect or otherwise?
#17
RE: Fuel stabilizer
You can idle at 20k if you want to...it will not heat the engine the same as if there were a load on it (like riding).
The issue with idling and shutting it down is the moisture gets repeatedly mixed into the oil which breaks it down sooner which limits the effectiveness of the oil.
Also, the moisture is formed naturally once the metal on the engine starts to reduce to the air temp. If you only idle and shut down, you are, in essence, adding more moisture into the crank then if you were to ride for a while.
The coolant temp is irrelavent here as that's controlled by a t-stat.
Engine oil, however, is run through out the engine. If you never put a load on the engine, the oil will never truly reach operating temp because the colder winter air is preventing that as it contacts the cases, valve cover, etc.
Ever look into a tailpipe a few minutes after the engine is shut down? See the condensation? That is exactly what's happening inside your engine....difference is the internals of the engine have all sorts of nooks and crannies for moisture to collect.
EDIT: In a bit late with the post.
The issue with idling and shutting it down is the moisture gets repeatedly mixed into the oil which breaks it down sooner which limits the effectiveness of the oil.
Also, the moisture is formed naturally once the metal on the engine starts to reduce to the air temp. If you only idle and shut down, you are, in essence, adding more moisture into the crank then if you were to ride for a while.
The coolant temp is irrelavent here as that's controlled by a t-stat.
Engine oil, however, is run through out the engine. If you never put a load on the engine, the oil will never truly reach operating temp because the colder winter air is preventing that as it contacts the cases, valve cover, etc.
Ever look into a tailpipe a few minutes after the engine is shut down? See the condensation? That is exactly what's happening inside your engine....difference is the internals of the engine have all sorts of nooks and crannies for moisture to collect.
EDIT: In a bit late with the post.
#19
RE: Fuel stabilizer
ORIGINAL: sixhundredrr
Noted. I'll change my oil in the spring before riding again.
Noted. I'll change my oil in the spring before riding again.
i gotta tell ya, the very best thing you can do for your bike during the winter solstice is just to leave it alone! you don't even need to change the oil before putting her to sleep... well, unless it's really bad... in your case, you're going to need to change that oil before you do any serious duty with it. depending on how much use your oil has on it now you could probably get away with doing a really lazy commute for an hour to burn that water away and continue on your way until your next scheduled OCI...
#20
RE: Fuel stabilizer
take the battery out over storage and place on a trickle charger, if you have one (good investment) otherwise it WILL drain down to a point were it will not start your bike. Also keeping it in a place were its not prone to freezing temps, such as inside,will make your load cells happy