Hi does this problem only show itself at idle, that is does it get along the road alright

 

Aaah was hoping you reply o cbr guru.
Not only at idle.I limped back from work with the bike surging and almost stalling all the way. Note that therpms won't settle no matter which gear.
I added some STP ful treatment etc but didn't help. AsI said not all 4 cylinders are firing
now which I think is due to plugs being fouled but the fouling must be caused by something else as the plugs are new.

 

Hi , when it does idle what does it idle at (rpm) could adjust that on the adjuster ****, would be easier if you had a Peak Voltage Adaptor to test the coils, and have you tested the TPS for voltage (page 5-82) it shows a harness being used but you can back probe the connector for same result,is the wax unit operating as it should and have you had a starter valve sync done, know there's a few things here but got to start somewhere, did you check the FPR with vac pipe off and running for leaks, sorry if I'm already going over things you might have done, but dont know the history of your bike
600rr but wiring the same
Back Probe the 3 wires from the tps with a voltmeter. It will have an input voltage
wire, output voltage, and a ground. You need to probe the output voltage wire,
which should be around .4v with the throttle closed, and at wot be someplace
around 5v. While your probing, slowly open the throttle and make sure the volts
slowly but gradually reaches around 5v. Watch for dead spots, if it has them,
it's bad. Best to use an Analogue Meter so the needle moves smoothly
Ground wire - Green/Orange
Input Voltage wire - Yellow/Red
Output voltage wire - Red/Yellow

 

Hardly that matey, just an old bugger who likes playing with bikes

 

The adjuster has no effect on idle. It doesn't hold idle no matter how much the bike has warmed up. The wax unit was changed an year ago when I was hunting for a similar issue which later turned out to be a vaccum line leakage caused by the Scottoiler v system Tee cracked. Which means the old wax unit had no problem at all. I had changed the fpr the as well along with reshimming the valves and a throttle body sync.
I have not checked the fpr this time at all. I'd have done it, but I'd think a faulty fpr would be a problem always whereas my I have problems right after when it rains? Same reasoning applies to the TPS as well? Afaulty TPS would always be a problem not only when it rains? And I think an FI code will be thrown if it's faulty?
What could go wrong when it rains? All electricals seem to work fine, no codes whatsoever.

 

Maybe checking the coil sticks, always easier with the Peak Voltage Adaptor, if need be I can show you how to make one

 

Ok, I managed to diagnose it. The problem really was the recently installed PC3r(older serial version). The coils were ok although 1 was slightly cracked, so replaced it, but it certainly was not the coils.
The PC3r works fine in the dry, but when it rains somehow water gets inside from the connectors. It could either be the open connector meant for ignition timing which I had not connected to the CKP sensor or moisture was just getting in from the serail port which I left open where the serial connector for tuning attaches or may be somehow inside the big connectors where you attach the PC3 to the harness(although unlikely) I don;t really know , but I took the PC3 off and the bike has since stood in proper rain thrice without any drama.