can bike start with no oil?
#4
01-30-2011, 12:26 AM
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#5
01-30-2011, 01:05 AM
#6
01-30-2011, 02:37 AM
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Running an engine without oil ain't good , thats for certain !! 
but , .... most of the better oils are pretty good these days and do have features that will allow an engine to run on just the this residual film left behind after they are near empty for very short periods of time(under very slight load conditions) without too much damage .... having said that , over head cam engines especially are very very sensitive to no oil in the camshart caps and if they are run for under any reasonable load , they will destroy the cap shells very quickly ...
If it were my bike , I would pop the rocker cover off and drop at least one or two of the cam shell bearing caps off , to see if they over heated or were damaged ...
As PlayfulGod said , check for noticeable signs of leakage before refilling her ... if there are no signs of leakage , stretch your right foot way back bend your knee backwards and give yourself one all mighty kick up the ****!! for letting her run dry under normal use ..!!!!!!
Lke many guys here , I have ONE GOLDEN RULE !! ... ALWAYS !! ALWAYS !! check over your road bike before you turn the key , EVERY time you go out .... It takes just a few lousy minutes to check all the serious stuff , OIL level !!!! Water !! BRAKES FLUID LEVELS !! VISUAL TYRE INSPECTION !! and THE CHAIN FOR LUBE !!
If you do not learn to do these basic things every time you go ridding , you and or your road bike will get damaged eventually !!!
hope all turns out ok ... ??
but , .... most of the better oils are pretty good these days and do have features that will allow an engine to run on just the this residual film left behind after they are near empty for very short periods of time(under very slight load conditions) without too much damage .... having said that , over head cam engines especially are very very sensitive to no oil in the camshart caps and if they are run for under any reasonable load , they will destroy the cap shells very quickly ...
If it were my bike , I would pop the rocker cover off and drop at least one or two of the cam shell bearing caps off , to see if they over heated or were damaged ...
As PlayfulGod said , check for noticeable signs of leakage before refilling her ... if there are no signs of leakage , stretch your right foot way back bend your knee backwards and give yourself one all mighty kick up the ****!! for letting her run dry under normal use ..!!!!!!
Lke many guys here , I have ONE GOLDEN RULE !! ... ALWAYS !! ALWAYS !! check over your road bike before you turn the key , EVERY time you go out .... It takes just a few lousy minutes to check all the serious stuff , OIL level !!!!
Water !! BRAKES FLUID LEVELS !! VISUAL TYRE INSPECTION !! and THE CHAIN FOR LUBE !! If you do not learn to do these basic things every time you go ridding , you and or your road bike will get damaged eventually !!!
hope all turns out ok ... ??
Last edited by CBRclassic; 01-30-2011 at 02:42 AM.
#7
01-30-2011, 10:22 AM
#8
01-30-2011, 11:10 AM
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Funny this thread came up as I was wanting to post my latest experience. I was planning on doing my oil change. I planned on doing it in the late afternoon but ending up getting tied up, then too tired. The bike sat over night (or an easy 12 hrs) thus most all the oil was drained into the pan (of course there was still some floating on the cams/rollers etc Im sure) but I went ahead and pulled the plug that morning. Let it drain for about 2 hrs as I watched da bears..Went and swapped the filter, wiped it all down and filled er up with 3.7Qts Mobil 1 4T. Upon FIRST start I heard a metal on metal scraping for about 3.6343 seconds. It went right away after the oil got pumped into the once dry before locations. I am assuming it was my piston rings against the cylinder wall? No loss in power or any sign it affected the motor/bike in any way to date..if anything, I'll chalk it up to it gently scraped any carbon deposits or blemishes off my cylinder wall
I also, read that from the F4 to the F4i motor one of the changes was looser clearances between cylinder wall and ring for smoother travel.
So for future reference, I understand some say that you should start the bike up real quick and let it run for 30 seconds before you do an oil change. I get the theory behind it, but wouln't that mean that you never really get the most oil out of your case upon changing?
I also, read that from the F4 to the F4i motor one of the changes was looser clearances between cylinder wall and ring for smoother travel.So for future reference, I understand some say that you should start the bike up real quick and let it run for 30 seconds before you do an oil change. I get the theory behind it, but wouln't that mean that you never really get the most oil out of your case upon changing?
Last edited by 600F4inoober; 01-30-2011 at 11:13 AM.
#9
01-30-2011, 11:39 AM
On some engines there is an oil pressure cut-off switch that will kill the engine before damage is done when pressure drops. I believe the old CB750K with the dry sump had this feature.
Here is what will happen. The spacing between the connecting rod bearings and rod journals as well as the spacing between the crank bearings and crank journals is small. That space is filled with an extremely thin layer of oil. Oil can't be compressed so this thin layer becomes a link between the two but also lets the rod or mains bearings spin around the journals. Without the oil filling the small void, when a cylinder fires, the piston is slammed down, in a violent explosion, against the connecting rod and in turn slams the rod bearing against the rod journal. This smashes the bearing material to the point that the spacing gets bigger and the slamming gets worse. This continues until all the bearing is smashed out. Then the rod starts to trash the journals and the entire crank needs to be replaced as well as connection rods. Depending on RPM and engine load, it can happens in seconds.
A dry cam or dry cylinder wall will have enough oil for a short period of time if oil pressure drops but the crank needs to be feed oil all the time due to the heavy beating the pistons are giving it..
Always check your oil.
Here is what will happen. The spacing between the connecting rod bearings and rod journals as well as the spacing between the crank bearings and crank journals is small. That space is filled with an extremely thin layer of oil. Oil can't be compressed so this thin layer becomes a link between the two but also lets the rod or mains bearings spin around the journals. Without the oil filling the small void, when a cylinder fires, the piston is slammed down, in a violent explosion, against the connecting rod and in turn slams the rod bearing against the rod journal. This smashes the bearing material to the point that the spacing gets bigger and the slamming gets worse. This continues until all the bearing is smashed out. Then the rod starts to trash the journals and the entire crank needs to be replaced as well as connection rods. Depending on RPM and engine load, it can happens in seconds.
A dry cam or dry cylinder wall will have enough oil for a short period of time if oil pressure drops but the crank needs to be feed oil all the time due to the heavy beating the pistons are giving it..
Always check your oil.
#10
01-30-2011, 12:40 PM
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How did you check the oil?
Most bikes won't register oil unless it was run first. the sight glass will be empty as the oil will drain back into the pan after awhile. If you were looking the sight glass, and hadn't run the bike, there is probably oil in there, your just not seeing it.
The theory behind that is to get the oil warmed up so it flows out of the crankcase better, and so the particles that are in the oil are suspended in the oil and come out with the oil. If the oil has been sitting for a period of time, the particles all fall to bottom of every nook and cranny and you won't get them all out with the oil. I usually let it run for a little longer, around 1-2 minutes. Long enough to get the oil warmed up some so it flows better, and to make sure all of crap is coming out with the oil.
Most bikes won't register oil unless it was run first. the sight glass will be empty as the oil will drain back into the pan after awhile. If you were looking the sight glass, and hadn't run the bike, there is probably oil in there, your just not seeing it.
So for future reference, I understand some say that you should start the bike up real quick and let it run for 30 seconds before you do an oil change. I get the theory behind it, but wouln't that mean that you never really get the most oil out of your case upon changing?
