2007 Honda CBR 600RR

Hi there. I'm having an issue with my bike, wondering if someone might be able to shed some light.

Was going down the highway a few days ago, maybe 75mph and it just died on me. I tried not to panic, kind of pulled off onto the side and rolled with it a little bit, thought maybe it was just running out of gas but still had half a tank.

But without doing anything at all, it started right back up while rolling, essentially the same way you'd go about doing a rolling start. And it would keep doing that, though was able to drive it back to my apartment thankfully.

Thought maybe it was the killswitch not making a good connection.I replaced that and still didn't fix it. Also read that the recitifer may be the issue -- replaced that and it still happens. Also thought maybe the fuel pump was clogged or not putting out enough fuel -- replaced that and it still didn't fix it. Seems to run "decent" until I get into the 5-6krpm range and then it'll die, but I just keep it rolling and it starts back up and I just drive it easy. However after a time it'll start to die at really low RPMs in the first 3 gears as well.

Is it the stator? I hooked up a voltmeter to the battery, and while in neutral, revved it to the 5k range where it reads about 14.3 volts which seems to be standard. Anyone have any other ideas? I've read it could possibly be a loose ground wire as well. Thanks in advance!

 

It could be something as simple as the battery is toast, running out of juice and switching off the ECU.
As the rectifier is kicking out 14.3 volts then it would suggest that the stator is fine.
Check the battery, then regulator then we can go from there.

 

Don't replace perfectly-working parts with brand-new perfectly-working parts. Nothing will change and symptoms will persist. Test and measure, numbers will tell you exactly where problem is and how to fix it. Then you only need to fix exact thing that's broken. Most likely loose or corroded connector somewhere.

 

Replaced the battery a bit ago. Bike definitely starts better and doesn't die nearly as quickly as before but it still does. Instead of the 5k RPM range I was able to get it up to 8 or so before it died.

So, at a loss now

-Battery
-Fuel Pump
-Rectifier
-Kill switch

Anyone have any other ideas?

What kind of connector? Ground somewhere? Is it possible the fuel line is clogged or something? Could take the whole fuel rail off and test the injectors, but I feel like it wouldn't even start as easily as it normally does if it were the fuel line.

 

If you suspect fuel-flow, then stop guessing and measure fuel-flow. Tests hose as well. Then plug hose back in, unplug injector from rail and measure flow through rail. Good fuel-system actually flows twice as much as this.



Or just replace hose, rail and injectors:
https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/17526-MFJ-D01
https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16527-MFJ-D01
https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16630-MFJ-D00
https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16640-MFJ-D00
https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16460-MFJ-D01

Did you replace entire pump assembly? Or just pump motor? Because there's filtre and FPR in assembly that may be clogged as well:
https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16700-MFJ-D01

 

Hi there -- still working on this issue and wondering if someone might be able to shed some light.

Previously, the bike would stall around 6 or 7k RPM, though there were times where it would hardly even idle as well. Almost got stranded on one specific occasion during the process of trying to fix this.

In short, the engine dies MOSTLY when I'm going faster which leads me to believe there's an electrical short somewhere (wind/vibration, etc) It starts right back up on its own so long as I'm rolling. Don't have to pop the clutch or anything. Just kinda coast while mumbling, "God damn it" etc until it fires back up.The last time I drove it, I noticed the dash/cluster had basically restarted -- both turn signal lights turned on as they do when you first turn the key on, which at this point leads me to believe it's electrical.

However here's a list of stuff I've replaced, 90% of which was from a working wrecked bike that I just had spare parts from.

- Kill Switch
- Rectifier (checked 2 -- both were getting correct voltage)
- Battery
- Throttle body (thought maybe it had something to do with the TPS)
- Complete airbox assembly including the MAP sensor and air temperature sensor
- Stator
- Fuel Pump
- All fuel injectors and fuel rails
- All spark plugs spark plug boots

Could it be something as stupid as a turn signal wire? Would such small voltage/amps as that be enough to kill the engine completely? I keep the bike at a friends house and am really only able to work on it on weekends.

I'm wondering if it might have something to do with the ignition switch or even the kickstand safety switch at this point, I honestly have no ideas otherwise.

 

It does indeed sound like electrical gremlins which as you have discovered can be a nightmare.
It sounds remarkable like an issue I have with my old CB500 that did exactly as you described momentarily shutting off then re-starting.
In my case it was the ignition switch connector block (sits underneath the ignition switch) I managed to get a long straw into the bottom of the unit where the connectors are and liberally squirted contact cleaner in there whilst switching the ignition off and on repeatedly... worked for me!

 

Simple to measure voltage at end-devices like injectors, coils, sensors and wiggle wiring to find if you have drop outs. Don't have to buy or replace single part to find & fix broken wire

 

Bought a cheap one off eBay last night ($30?) and will swap it out and see if this solves the problem. Thanks for the reply!

 

Just be careful with ebay switches if it does not even start.
It would seem that most times the zener diode is missing from the switch which is need to get the voltage down from 12v to 9v to enable the ecu!
Try wiggling the key in your current ignition switch to see if you can replicate the fault.