Best chain & sprocket?
#1
#2
a heavy steel sprocket 525/530 setup is gonna be your best bet.
x-ring/o-ring chain
JT makes a good setup, and obviously kits like vortex are pricey but known.
The honest best way to make your chain and sprockets last is to simply lubricate and clean them often.
I have an xring chain i bought used with about 10k on it, and i've personally put about 30k on it since.
the chain is still pretty solid today, and i get lots of people who tell me they say im full of s&*( and my chain is brand new.
If you hunt ebay right, you can get a good set of JT front and rears, and an o-ring for 100 bucks.
Obviously is money is no issue grab a full kit x-ring.
#4
Lol....I am second guessing myself lately...I own my bike for 4-5 years and thought I knew alot...then just recently found out my chain /sprocket set up was way off....I have 46T rear sprock...that's +3 over factory with a 520 chain DID conversion. Kinda felt dumb...
I did saw a Regina chain with JT sprocks...$159 shipped (oem set up though)
I am 1/2 & 1/2 should I go back oem set up or maintain same 520 +3 rear conversion ?
Any comment appreciated...tks
I did saw a Regina chain with JT sprocks...$159 shipped (oem set up though)
I am 1/2 & 1/2 should I go back oem set up or maintain same 520 +3 rear conversion ?
Any comment appreciated...tks
#6
Lol....I am second guessing myself lately...I own my bike for 4-5 years and thought I knew alot...then just recently found out my chain /sprocket set up was way off....I have 46T rear sprock...that's +3 over factory with a 520 chain DID conversion. Kinda felt dumb...
I did saw a Regina chain with JT sprocks...$159 shipped (oem set up though)
I am 1/2 & 1/2 should I go back oem set up or maintain same 520 +3 rear conversion ?
Any comment appreciated...tks
I did saw a Regina chain with JT sprocks...$159 shipped (oem set up though)
I am 1/2 & 1/2 should I go back oem set up or maintain same 520 +3 rear conversion ?
Any comment appreciated...tks
don't get me wrong, my setup is 520 and i love it.
as far as brands go,
supersprox is amazing, i have heard nothing but amazing reviews. don't they guarantee their sprockets for life?
driven, vortex, jt, and regina all make excellent choices as well.
IDoDirt would probably suggest factory honda setup,
but I can vouch all those brands will be just as solid.
notes if you do the swap yourself:
replace all 3 at the same time if you can (sprocket/chain)
use that time to lube your axle, and do any maintenance on the rear, brakes, chain adjusters, etc.
line up your wheel correctly, i suggest getting a rear stand to do so.
i use c-clip chains, and recommend them, however if you go rivet, take your time making sure its perfect.
use lubrication often, and clean your chain often.
i suggest chainwax. goes a long time, cleans up easily, no mess.
make sure you get yourself a 6packker of coors to help with process.
#7
#8
best is pretty open ended.
a heavy steel sprocket 525/530 setup is gonna be your best bet.
x-ring/o-ring chain
JT makes a good setup, and obviously kits like vortex are pricey but known.
The honest best way to make your chain and sprockets last is to simply lubricate and clean them often.
I have an xring chain i bought used with about 10k on it, and i've personally put about 30k on it since.
the chain is still pretty solid today, and i get lots of people who tell me they say im full of s&*( and my chain is brand new.
If you hunt ebay right, you can get a good set of JT front and rears, and an o-ring for 100 bucks.
Obviously is money is no issue grab a full kit x-ring.
a heavy steel sprocket 525/530 setup is gonna be your best bet.
x-ring/o-ring chain
JT makes a good setup, and obviously kits like vortex are pricey but known.
The honest best way to make your chain and sprockets last is to simply lubricate and clean them often.
I have an xring chain i bought used with about 10k on it, and i've personally put about 30k on it since.
the chain is still pretty solid today, and i get lots of people who tell me they say im full of s&*( and my chain is brand new.
If you hunt ebay right, you can get a good set of JT front and rears, and an o-ring for 100 bucks.
Obviously is money is no issue grab a full kit x-ring.
#9
Look on the bright side, if you got 4-5 years out of that kit, never looking at it except
to lube it. It served well. I sure ain't gonna blame somebody, for not noticing something,
that wasn't a problem. You noticed when you were supposed to...at replacement time. lol
You don't say if the front is still stock or if it's -1 (or some such).
I'm betting that the logic was to keep the "beef" of a stock gear on the front and
just add it to the back for the "hop". For a 0/+3 from stock.
So if you go to a -1/+2, you'll be in the same ratio you are used to, and more
commonly available kit. If that's the case, unless you hate your fuel milage, stay
with a -1/+2. Other-wise, we're gonna hear a lot of whining about how "slow"
your ride is now. If you do more high-way than canyon riding, then OEM is the
way to go.
to lube it. It served well. I sure ain't gonna blame somebody, for not noticing something,
that wasn't a problem. You noticed when you were supposed to...at replacement time. lol
You don't say if the front is still stock or if it's -1 (or some such).
I'm betting that the logic was to keep the "beef" of a stock gear on the front and
just add it to the back for the "hop". For a 0/+3 from stock.
So if you go to a -1/+2, you'll be in the same ratio you are used to, and more
commonly available kit. If that's the case, unless you hate your fuel milage, stay
with a -1/+2. Other-wise, we're gonna hear a lot of whining about how "slow"
your ride is now. If you do more high-way than canyon riding, then OEM is the
way to go.
#10
Thanks Ern...I have not had chance to check if front sprock yet...I'll check it tonight...but the rear is +3 surely....i don't do much highways...not often. Mostly PCH... I want to replace chain and sprock, keeping a similar feel as much as possible...so if going back to factory set up...slower acceleration? let me check the front count first, will advise
Look on the bright side, if you got 4-5 years out of that kit, never looking at it except
to lube it. It served well. I sure ain't gonna blame somebody, for not noticing something,
that wasn't a problem. You noticed when you were supposed to...at replacement time. lol
You don't say if the front is still stock or if it's -1 (or some such).
I'm betting that the logic was to keep the "beef" of a stock gear on the front and
just add it to the back for the "hop". For a 0/+3 from stock.
So if you go to a -1/+2, you'll be in the same ratio you are used to, and more
commonly available kit. If that's the case, unless you hate your fuel milage, stay
with a -1/+2. Other-wise, we're gonna hear a lot of whining about how "slow"
your ride is now. If you do more high-way than canyon riding, then OEM is the
way to go.
to lube it. It served well. I sure ain't gonna blame somebody, for not noticing something,
that wasn't a problem. You noticed when you were supposed to...at replacement time. lol
You don't say if the front is still stock or if it's -1 (or some such).
I'm betting that the logic was to keep the "beef" of a stock gear on the front and
just add it to the back for the "hop". For a 0/+3 from stock.
So if you go to a -1/+2, you'll be in the same ratio you are used to, and more
commonly available kit. If that's the case, unless you hate your fuel milage, stay
with a -1/+2. Other-wise, we're gonna hear a lot of whining about how "slow"
your ride is now. If you do more high-way than canyon riding, then OEM is the
way to go.